Archive through June 05, 2011

[dtanner]

Tom Roberts

I have one of these for all my small engines. They are easy to use and cheap .

For under $10.00

 

[rwilke]

Tom R.,
Here is another one - $14 USD.
http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Photo-Laser-Tachometer-Contact/dp/B001N4QY66/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

RWilke

 

[pbell]

Dale M
You are getting the sparks because something is drawing current: a short in a wire, AMP meter, headlight wire/switch, wrong VR or incorrect connection on the VR, etc. Is the wiring harness new or used? Is the brake/clutch safety switch still connected?

 

[nbartee]

Matt,

Right, I understand, but if you just needed a case, any case would do.

 

[dmerkle]

The tractor has a new wire harness and new key switch. The brake/clutch safety switch and solenoid are the only things still connected.

Time to by-pass the brake/clutch safety switch.

 

[gsmyth]

I just ran across a manual that specifies IH 251H EP grease or #2 miltipurpose lithium grease for spindles on a mower. My experience is the lithium grease works fine to protect things like lugs on wheels but over time gets crusty and ungreaselike. I much prefer wheel bearing grease. Can anyone identify what the IH grease is and I've never seen anything identified as #2 lithium grease, only packages identified as white lithium grease. Are both of the specified identical? Is there an opinion out there about what grease is better than another for a 1450 tractor and accessories?

 

[nbartee]

Gary S.

I've used both moly & lithium with good results, but I don't use wheel bearing grease because it gets crusty with no flow. I don't think it matters too much of what kind, just as long as you use plenty of it!

My opinion...

 

[jfrederick]

149 Hydro Drive Problems....

So a few days ago I stated I keep snapping drive pins at the engine with my 149. Just broke another one, so I took it all apart, unbolted the engine, removed shaft, coupler, rear rag joint and I took off the hydro drive shaft coupler arm....

Is the hydro drive arm that hooks to the rag joint supposed to have a ball bearing in it? Between the arm & the hydro shaft itself? It looks as if the arm is designed to accept a ball and the drive on the hydro has a hole in the center of it....mine has no ball in it.

"IF" I try the driveshaft, pin, & coupler one more time should I have the drive shaft pin 180 degrees turned opposite of the hydro drive arm pin? Would this really matter? I just do not want to work on this thing all the time. I am willing to try the drive shaft one more time before I convert this thing over to something better, or buy a new cub cadet....yes, I am that sick of it.

Thanks guys.

 

[pbell]

Gary S
The Case IH 251H EP (Extreme Pressure) Multi-Purpose Grease is defined on the tube as a Petroleum Oil (grease) , General purpose NLGI 2 lithium soap extreme pressure grease for use in agricultural, construction and industrial equipment. For use in anti friction and plain bearings (including non disc brake wheel bearings), universal joints, spline shafts, water pumps, and general chassis lubrication. Do not mix with other soap types.

Under that is a "chart" that says:
NGLI 2 Lithium 12-Hydroxy
Case 251EP -10*F to +250*F
Meets NGLI LB

I use the case IH brand because my CC dealer has it, but probably any brand NGLI 2 EP grease will work.

 

[thoffman]

Paul and Gary,
Here's the stuff you need!

 

[klorenz]

Charlie: That garage sale 70 looks more like a 72 according to the dash and the cast iron part of the grille. The 70 hood and headlight panel decals had me thinking it was a 70 also.

Guess I've got too much time on my hands with my arm in a sling and a shoulder that hurts like a SOB.

 

[mschairer]

Hello: Blue Ribbon Service manual for my Original says Head bolts should be 200 Inch Pounds torque. Is the conversion from Inch Pounds to Foot pounds as easy as dividing the 200 by 12? Thanks, Mark

 

[mgonitzke]

Mark S.-

Yep, there's 12 inches in 1 foot.

 

[hydroharry]

Justin F - I know the Service Manual mentions a ball bearing to align the shaft but I don't believe that was used on the 149. I don't think it came into use until the early Quiet Line series. The parts manual doesn't list a ball bearing under the 149, and it mentions one being used in the 1450 section with a specific drive shaft.

I believe I commented about your problem before. I would go back in time to when you first started having the drive shaft pin break. I believe you mentioned something about having the hydro pump rebuilt, or removed and something done. I suspect your problem started after this. The pumps are complicated, and I feel something isn't right with yours. I just can't advise what it may be or who could help. It might be best if you could come up with a pump to use on a temp basis to see if the problem goes away.

You also mentioned trying one more time before converting to something better. It won't do any good to convert at this point, until you find the problem causing the pin to break. Something isn't correct. The pins don't just keep breaking.

Matt G - any assistance for Justin?

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and their pumps hardly ever fail)

 

[jchamberlin]

Justin: I can certainly identify with your desire to "get another Cub," have had those moments myself. I also own a 149. I haven't torn mine down as far as you have yours, but I believe there is supposed to be a ball bearing behind the hole in the rear coupler at the transmission. I don't know what its dimensions are, but I would hope some of this site's sponsors could hook you up.

Even though you use your Cub for fairly heavy duty tasks, the drive train should only have to worry about keeping the pump charged with Hytran. I would think that the stock configuration would be sufficient if it is operating correctly, although others on this forum have modified it to good effect.

 

[aschumacher]

Justin F, so you dont feel ignored I'll put in my 2 cents. As I recall there is a steel ball on the back end of the drive shaft. Also discussed last week was a member who was snapping pins. It seems that the drive hub on the flywheel had extremely worn grooves and was slapping the pin eventually snapping it.
EDIT: go to the top of this discussion and click on 'Archive thru may 27' and look at question by Justin Frederick on Sun may 29 at 2:58pm.
Then go to Archive thru May29 and read thru it. A number of responses for your same/similar problem.
Maybe tonight or tomorrow more people will help out.

 

[mschairer]

Hi:

Another question, I am able to lift the intake valve out of the block. Is this normal or is something broke?

Thanks

Mark

 

[jfrederick]

Thanks for the response Guys!

Harry, I had the pump off from the rear end. I pulled the whole works out, cleaned it all up, then took the pump off the rear end, with the pump pointing up in the air...being sure to be very clean about everything. I replaced that cork gasket between the pump & rear end and then re-assembled. Doing this in hoping to stop a small leak that left small puddles on my shop floor. Just tonight I turned the pump by hand, it felt nice turned great without having any feeling of catching....not that this is a way to check it, but I wanted to see if maybe it would feel like a bad bearing would...This thing was snapping pins long before I put this new gasket in though. A few years back I also replaced fluids & filter, still snaps them.

Jeremiah, the interesting thing about this is I cannot find on the net a ball for the 149 tractors...newer ones as stated on another post show the bearing for that. I talked to my dad today....he also has a 149 Cadet just like mine (since 1980), he has used his a lot harder than mine...he had his rear end & hydro re-built by an IH dealer way back when...he snapped one pin and replaced it with a double roll pin (not a coiled pin) put grease around that pin & in that hub....and it has never broken since! He uses it still today all the time to mow, plow snow, pull equipment, push dirt...etc. So as Harry said, there has to be something else wrong...just not sure what??

Allen, I may have to try the ball idea also. My dad said that his does not have one in it...so I am not sure? It just looks like one should be in there. I just pushed out the stock coil pin from that hydro tonight though, looks like it has never been removed before. My coupler that was brand new with the drive shaft, pin & rag joint is a mess right now, that coupler is worn so bad I bet the pin has dug 1/4" into that hub...my driveshaft has wear on it too from the pin snapping and being at an angle against the driveshaft. I will read through those responses also!

Thanks to all for the input & advice on this. It is just so nerve racking. I want to be able to volunteer to mow around our area at places in town such as our church, but cannot due to this thing being such a pain and not dependable as I would be driving down roads to get there and back.

Before a conversion to a new drive system, I will try to get deeper into the possible problem of this. I am still pricing a new GT 2000 series Cub for mowing & light work...my 149 will be the heavy workhorse so I need the issue fixed whether I get a new Cub or not. I have located a used 149 drive shaft assembly (front hub, driveshaft & pin, rear rag joint, hydro arm coupler) and it looks good and not worn much at all...so I may get that instead of investing another $175 for new stuff...again.

Thanks again guys!

 

[rotoole]

I have a original cub and on the tower is the starter button and a simple flip switch to power the battery to the starter. The question: Was the simple up and down switch original or was there a key switch for off and on??????

 

[rodsmith]

Randy,
It should be a key switch instead of a toggle switch.
ROD