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Archive through June 05, 2010
- Thread starter aschumacher
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
I really don't remember the price. I do remember some of our sponsers had a good price on paint at that time. I just bought it where the guy that was spraying for me wanted to get it. A picture of the tractor is in my profile.
Luther,
Please elaborate on "Then when we painted yellow the edges would not cover on the first coat. He said to use a small amount of white in the yellow on the first coat." What do you mean by edges? So you added some white paint to the yellow for the first coat, then the second coat was pure yellow?
Please elaborate on "Then when we painted yellow the edges would not cover on the first coat. He said to use a small amount of white in the yellow on the first coat." What do you mean by edges? So you added some white paint to the yellow for the first coat, then the second coat was pure yellow?
Hey guys, this is my first post. I'm hoping to be pointed in the correct direction.
I have just been given my great grandfathers 1968 cc 125 w/ a 48" mower deck and a snowblower attachment. This tractor has been sitting in the barn for 20+ years. It's practically rust free, but covered in bird crap. One tire is flat, but it's complete.
So, I have 3 questions:
1. The reason it was parked: I'm told one day it wouldn't shift into neutral, so it wouldn't start. It was never taken to a mechanic, and was never looked at by anyone. I've never run this tractor (I was 10 at the time), so what would cause this? Does the hydrostatic lever need to be on 'N', or does the brake need to be depressed, or both? Could it be linkage from the lever, or linkage from the pedal, or would it be the tranny itself is the problem?
2. Supposing question #1 isn't a deal breaker, and supposing the engine isn't seized. What would you go about replacing or checking before attempting to get it running? I was assuming brake lines, wiring, belts, oil, tranny fluid, etc. I've ordered a shop manual to help me, but if I'm missing anything I'd love to hear ideas.
3. I need to load this thing on a trailer to get it home before I can wash it off, and look it over. If it won't shift into neutral, what is the safest way to get it on the trailer? I thought about brute force with a comealong, but will that harm the tranny? Is there a way to force it into nuetral if the pedal and hydro lever won't do it?
Thanks in advance!
I have just been given my great grandfathers 1968 cc 125 w/ a 48" mower deck and a snowblower attachment. This tractor has been sitting in the barn for 20+ years. It's practically rust free, but covered in bird crap. One tire is flat, but it's complete.
So, I have 3 questions:
1. The reason it was parked: I'm told one day it wouldn't shift into neutral, so it wouldn't start. It was never taken to a mechanic, and was never looked at by anyone. I've never run this tractor (I was 10 at the time), so what would cause this? Does the hydrostatic lever need to be on 'N', or does the brake need to be depressed, or both? Could it be linkage from the lever, or linkage from the pedal, or would it be the tranny itself is the problem?
2. Supposing question #1 isn't a deal breaker, and supposing the engine isn't seized. What would you go about replacing or checking before attempting to get it running? I was assuming brake lines, wiring, belts, oil, tranny fluid, etc. I've ordered a shop manual to help me, but if I'm missing anything I'd love to hear ideas.
3. I need to load this thing on a trailer to get it home before I can wash it off, and look it over. If it won't shift into neutral, what is the safest way to get it on the trailer? I thought about brute force with a comealong, but will that harm the tranny? Is there a way to force it into nuetral if the pedal and hydro lever won't do it?
Thanks in advance!
Yes the edges of the parts didn"t cover good on the first coat. We went back and repainted some of them with a small amount of white (4 or 5 drops per 1/2 pint of yellow) then the final coat was pure yellow Hope this makes sense.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Bob P.-
Last year I bought PPG Shop Line paint mixed in 901 White and 483 Yellow, and They were both around $25/quart IIRC.
Last year I bought PPG Shop Line paint mixed in 901 White and 483 Yellow, and They were both around $25/quart IIRC.
mgwin
Well-known member
Bob P.,
I am pretty sure the fiberglass dash is NLA. If your dash is not badly damaged, you CAN repair it. BTDT, got a T-shirt(I faced the same thing with my 128). I will give more info later today. Going to Church in a few minutes, so I can't talk and show photos of my repair remedies right now. Will be back after dinner, just hold on till then.
I am pretty sure the fiberglass dash is NLA. If your dash is not badly damaged, you CAN repair it. BTDT, got a T-shirt(I faced the same thing with my 128). I will give more info later today. Going to Church in a few minutes, so I can't talk and show photos of my repair remedies right now. Will be back after dinner, just hold on till then.
Rob W.
There is a hydro release lever on the right side of the tunnel which should let you push the tractor without having the rear wheels locked. Most likely there is a popped part of the hydro linkage. BTDT on my 129, the linkage parts are a bit more difficult to access on a NF like the 125.
The main concern with the engine, other than doing an oil change and making sure the wiring is intact, is that it is very likely the carburetor will be gummed up, and there will be a lot of nastiness in the fuel tank as well, unless the fuel was drained before storage. Also, the breaker points will likely need to be filed or replaced, you'll need a new battery etc.
The brake pedal does need to be engaged before starting, unless the neutral safety switch has been bypassed. If you run into issues where the starter won't operate in a normal fashion, I would check to make sure the switch operates as it should.
There is a hydro release lever on the right side of the tunnel which should let you push the tractor without having the rear wheels locked. Most likely there is a popped part of the hydro linkage. BTDT on my 129, the linkage parts are a bit more difficult to access on a NF like the 125.
The main concern with the engine, other than doing an oil change and making sure the wiring is intact, is that it is very likely the carburetor will be gummed up, and there will be a lot of nastiness in the fuel tank as well, unless the fuel was drained before storage. Also, the breaker points will likely need to be filed or replaced, you'll need a new battery etc.
The brake pedal does need to be engaged before starting, unless the neutral safety switch has been bypassed. If you run into issues where the starter won't operate in a normal fashion, I would check to make sure the switch operates as it should.
Bob P - I need to make a "How To" write up on fiberglass repair and I could use a donor ... All it'll cost ya is shipping both ways.
Send it by rail and it'll be cheaper , CSX needs the work
Extend --> works best of anything I've seen. A friend of mine painted his steel flat bed with it and it never showed rust again in 6 years. I used it on my '79 4x4 and it worked for the 5 more years that I kept it.
Send it by rail and it'll be cheaper , CSX needs the work
Extend --> works best of anything I've seen. A friend of mine painted his steel flat bed with it and it never showed rust again in 6 years. I used it on my '79 4x4 and it worked for the 5 more years that I kept it.
Luther -
Thanks for the additional info. I recently painted my 682 with rattle can paint. Because that paint doesn't have hardeners and clear coat, I understand it will fade and/or chalk, especially if left in the sun. So with my wifes encouragement to paint my red 782 so it too looks nice, I will need to get a spray gun. What brand/model of spray gun are you using, and would you recommend it to a novice?
Thanks for the additional info. I recently painted my 682 with rattle can paint. Because that paint doesn't have hardeners and clear coat, I understand it will fade and/or chalk, especially if left in the sun. So with my wifes encouragement to paint my red 782 so it too looks nice, I will need to get a spray gun. What brand/model of spray gun are you using, and would you recommend it to a novice?
Ken
it may be cheaper but takes to long with CSXT. You a RR'er?
Another reason why I'm not married. Does your wife let you store engine parts on the kitchen island? If your wondering, it's less humid in the house. I was concerned about rust after I blasted them. You can see some of the cast iron flash rusted anyway.
Priming them now!
it may be cheaper but takes to long with CSXT. You a RR'er?
Another reason why I'm not married. Does your wife let you store engine parts on the kitchen island? If your wondering, it's less humid in the house. I was concerned about rust after I blasted them. You can see some of the cast iron flash rusted anyway.
Priming them now!
Bob P - I use to build racing SB Chevys in the kitchen (back then I could carry them outside), not done that in 31 years ... did I mention I've been married 31 years ?
I still powder paint and cure my fishin' lures in the kitchen oven , gives the biscuits that home made taste you just can't get anywhere else
No I'm no RR do have a couple friends that are/were. One is a retired engineer and other is their electrician. Do have CSX stock though ... better than BP !
I still powder paint and cure my fishin' lures in the kitchen oven , gives the biscuits that home made taste you just can't get anywhere else
No I'm no RR do have a couple friends that are/were. One is a retired engineer and other is their electrician. Do have CSX stock though ... better than BP !
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- Allen Schumacher
Bob P. RE; EXTEND coating, as Ken said, it works real fine. It is not like an acid bath that leaves nothing behind. It is some sort of semi-gloss clear coat with chemicals that convert rust. Instructions suggest 2 coats, 3 if heavy rust pokes thru coating. Maybe painted over without a primer. But from BTDT, prime with Rustoleum 'light rust' primer. Its cream color. Yellows seem to have a 'hiding' problem on dark backgrounds.
Rob
I would remove the spark plug and pour a little oil in the cylinder and turn the engine by hand if possible. This will lube the walls and stop any corrosion.
If you can move the speed sellector lever (can't think of the proper name) move it to full forword or reverse. Then push the brake all the way down. Did the lever return to "N" or close to it. Please someone correct me if I'm wrong. If it does not then it's likely something has come off or broken in the linkage. If it does return to "N" then I lean toward a bad safety switch.
I would remove the spark plug and pour a little oil in the cylinder and turn the engine by hand if possible. This will lube the walls and stop any corrosion.
If you can move the speed sellector lever (can't think of the proper name) move it to full forword or reverse. Then push the brake all the way down. Did the lever return to "N" or close to it. Please someone correct me if I'm wrong. If it does not then it's likely something has come off or broken in the linkage. If it does return to "N" then I lean toward a bad safety switch.
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- Allen Schumacher
Sorry Bob, late reading the Forum today. Hope others kick in here, but you have to put a light color undercoat on anything yellow. With automotive paint you may have better coverage(IH paint etc.)than rattle cans, but you may have to have more coats than normal for coverage. Wait till tonight for more comments from guys, many at church or yard work or family, etc.
what is the difference between models,
86,106,107,126,127,128 and 147 ?
I know they were all made during the same time period, all with serial numbers in the same set and share the same service manual, so they must be very similar.
while I am at at, is there a chart some where that lists the differences of all the models?
reason why I am asking, I have given up on my 128. I assume the stalling will only be fixed with a new engine. rather then spending the grand on a new engine or rebuilding this one, I would like to find another cub for parts and swap engines, or if it is in better condition, use my cub for parts, so I need to know which cubs my parts will fit.
I'm confused because the original operators manual I got with the 128 says it is for ,
86,106,107,126,127, and 147 and that I should use the 126 instructions for the 128.
the service manual I downloaded says,
86,108,109,128,129,149,169,800,1000,1200,1250,1450 and 1650.
86,106,107,126,127,128 and 147 ?
I know they were all made during the same time period, all with serial numbers in the same set and share the same service manual, so they must be very similar.
while I am at at, is there a chart some where that lists the differences of all the models?
reason why I am asking, I have given up on my 128. I assume the stalling will only be fixed with a new engine. rather then spending the grand on a new engine or rebuilding this one, I would like to find another cub for parts and swap engines, or if it is in better condition, use my cub for parts, so I need to know which cubs my parts will fit.
I'm confused because the original operators manual I got with the 128 says it is for ,
86,106,107,126,127, and 147 and that I should use the 126 instructions for the 128.
the service manual I downloaded says,
86,108,109,128,129,149,169,800,1000,1200,1250,1450 and 1650.
