Bill J. Another option is to install machine bushings between the axle and the crossmember. IMO the less play the better, as long as the axle pivots freely. Grease it up while you are at it, its easy to do while the engine is out.
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Archive through June 03, 2012
- Thread starter fcurrier
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
thanks for the info on posting photos
i will set my camera to pixel size 640x480 this is the lowest setting on my camera anything from here is way to high and this is the issue that i was having when uploading any pictures - i will attempt to post some photos soon
if this does not work i will email to the moderator till i figure this out
i will set my camera to pixel size 640x480 this is the lowest setting on my camera anything from here is way to high and this is the issue that i was having when uploading any pictures - i will attempt to post some photos soon
if this does not work i will email to the moderator till i figure this out
Norm,
That looks like a Johnson Loader, maybe a model 10. I used to have one on a 129 that came with the wideframe subframe and the pump ran off the back of the engine. Hard to tell in the pics if it has a subframe with it or a hydraulic pump. Got any more pics???
That looks like a Johnson Loader, maybe a model 10. I used to have one on a 129 that came with the wideframe subframe and the pump ran off the back of the engine. Hard to tell in the pics if it has a subframe with it or a hydraulic pump. Got any more pics???
Hydro question:
My 169, when hot will hardly operate the lift. It still has no problem forward and reverse. I've checked charge pump pressure and that seems ok (didn't test when hot). It's most noticeable at idle when hot, the lift will not operate at all unless you stop and give at least half-throttle. I just happened to pick up a low-hour 1250 that would have been an excellent candidate for a hydro swap, BUT the 1250's didn't have a ported pump. Any ideas?
My 169, when hot will hardly operate the lift. It still has no problem forward and reverse. I've checked charge pump pressure and that seems ok (didn't test when hot). It's most noticeable at idle when hot, the lift will not operate at all unless you stop and give at least half-throttle. I just happened to pick up a low-hour 1250 that would have been an excellent candidate for a hydro swap, BUT the 1250's didn't have a ported pump. Any ideas?
Norm B.
It's a Johnson.
An older version, but still a Johnson.
It's a Johnson.
An older version, but still a Johnson.
jchamberlin
Well-known member
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- 1,842
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- Farmville, North Carolina
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Wyatt: When the lift on my 149 doesn't work, I usually find the system is low on fluid; check your Hytran level.
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
howdy
would like some input from every one. i bought a 1650 last year and when i pulled the motor to put all new electrical parts in it i found out it has a 12hp kohler in it. the question on my mind is: should i replace it with the factory 16hp aqs that is so hard to find complete or would it be easyer to bore it over and stroke it out? (how big can i go?) the engne runs fine for the small stuff i use it for now. no mowing lots of grading and small food plot work but i want to make a loader for it would the 12 be under powered? am i just hung up on the numbers?
thanks for the input.
chuck
would like some input from every one. i bought a 1650 last year and when i pulled the motor to put all new electrical parts in it i found out it has a 12hp kohler in it. the question on my mind is: should i replace it with the factory 16hp aqs that is so hard to find complete or would it be easyer to bore it over and stroke it out? (how big can i go?) the engne runs fine for the small stuff i use it for now. no mowing lots of grading and small food plot work but i want to make a loader for it would the 12 be under powered? am i just hung up on the numbers?
thanks for the input.
chuck
Jeremiah- True, that could happen, but the first thing I did when troubleshooting this was change fluid and filter.
This is a problem that's plagued this tractor for quite some time. I've been told before "its just worn out", which is ok, but I'm wondering if it could as simple as replacing the charge pump or swapping out the old cylinders and pistons.
This is a problem that's plagued this tractor for quite some time. I've been told before "its just worn out", which is ok, but I'm wondering if it could as simple as replacing the charge pump or swapping out the old cylinders and pistons.
CHUCK - The replacement 16 HP engine are not only rare but EXPENSIVE! And You can't bore a 12 HP big enough to make a 16 HP from it, and the 12 thru 16 HP Kohlers all have the same length stroke. A 12 HP stoke bore is 3-3/8", a 16 HP is 3-3/4", both have 3-1/4" stroke.
You can buy stroker crankshafts for Kohlers, but they're expensive and you can only increase the stroke about 1/4" without having to make other modifications like "moving the camshaft".
I would think 12 HP would be plenty for loader work. Don T has a 12 HP loader tractor he uses a L-O-T. For the light grading your doing the added HP really isn't necessary. If your Cubbie is doing the job for you now there shouldn't be a need to change.
You can buy stroker crankshafts for Kohlers, but they're expensive and you can only increase the stroke about 1/4" without having to make other modifications like "moving the camshaft".
I would think 12 HP would be plenty for loader work. Don T has a 12 HP loader tractor he uses a L-O-T. For the light grading your doing the added HP really isn't necessary. If your Cubbie is doing the job for you now there shouldn't be a need to change.
tmcgonagle
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- Todd McGonagle
OK, just step back a second. How cool is it that you can put a front end loader, with live hydraulics, on a lawn mower! (and have it work decently)
Dennis Frisk
A good working 12 K has lots of power to handle the loader. I got a 10K here I got from Frank C that he used with a loader and I think it worked great also. all you would need is a good 12 K for a loader ,lots of power and sometimes to fast with a loaded bucket. My loader has loaded rear tires and two 75lb and two 25lb wheel weights plus 185 lbs of weight in an amo box.The 129 will spin the super lugs when shoving the bucket into a pile of stone real easy even with my 244 lbs in the seat lol. Rain here today so I will see if the slipplate Charlie sold me will help keeping the cut grass from building up in the mower deck.I also have to find the no spark problem with my 125. it is ready to run and I did fix the oil leak
A good working 12 K has lots of power to handle the loader. I got a 10K here I got from Frank C that he used with a loader and I think it worked great also. all you would need is a good 12 K for a loader ,lots of power and sometimes to fast with a loaded bucket. My loader has loaded rear tires and two 75lb and two 25lb wheel weights plus 185 lbs of weight in an amo box.The 129 will spin the super lugs when shoving the bucket into a pile of stone real easy even with my 244 lbs in the seat lol. Rain here today so I will see if the slipplate Charlie sold me will help keeping the cut grass from building up in the mower deck.I also have to find the no spark problem with my 125. it is ready to run and I did fix the oil leak
- Joined
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- Binder 1650
Donald T - I have used slip plate with great success on my other color tractors. The 44A for my 1650 will get the treatment too. Happy mowing!
Chuck - I use to get caught-up in the higher hp is better and have eased off that in my older age. My 1650 has a 14 hp in it (to my surprise) and though I haven't cut a blade of grass with it yet
I am confident the lower hp will get the job done.
Chuck - I use to get caught-up in the higher hp is better and have eased off that in my older age. My 1650 has a 14 hp in it (to my surprise) and though I haven't cut a blade of grass with it yet
Hello, Rodney here. I have a question for those that have a lot of leaves to pick up each year. I have numberous live oak and elm leaves among others and would like to know if it would be beneficial to buy a leaf vacuum. If so what model would fit my 147. I cart off approximately 7-9 16ft. lowboy trailers full each year to my farm for mulch.
that is along the lines i have been thinking. i did forget to mention that it came with a tiller so i am assuming that the PO used it with the 12hp and had little trouble. With my inability to leave things alone i might put one of kirk's cams in it roll on. Or better yet get another Cub with a bigger motor just for giggles and spits
BILL J. - I tried Slip-Plate for a couple years with so-so results. I just don't mow wet grass anymore.
RODNEY K - Welcome to the forum. I have a lot of trees on my 2-1/2 acres, so deal with leaves every fall too. Several of us here have lawn vac's we pull in the fall when we mow. I built my own patterned after a brand called TRAC-VAC. They're expensive, the model I sorta copied was $2000 list and I spent about $400-$500 for steel & materials to build mine. I incorporated a few improvements to the design on mine so I could trim around all my trees better too.
Another vac to look at is made by AgriFab, they're cheaper but a decent unit. There were vac's made for Cub Cadets years ago by the name of Peco, and of couse the newer brands like Cyclone Rake.
I pulled a 30-32 inch Parker lawn sweeper for many years but it was a lot of work, emptying the sweeper into a cart then emptying the cart. My vac uses the same cart I use for normal yard chores but I made a top & sides for it, so I make a brick of leaves/clippings 32 inchs wide X 45 inchs long X 36 inchs tall. Since I load on the go they pack in and settle pretty good, I guess-timate I get 600-700# of leaves/clippings per load, maybe a bit more. Loading the cart is the easy part now, but I've been tempted to put a "Live unloading floor" with a conveyor belt or chain in my cart so I can unload without having to dig the stuff out with a pitch fork or rake. I normally get between 20 and 25 loads of leaves/clippings every fall. I used the vac about 3 weeks ago to pick up dry grass clippings, got eight loads in about 3-4 hours, about 8000# of them!
RODNEY K - Welcome to the forum. I have a lot of trees on my 2-1/2 acres, so deal with leaves every fall too. Several of us here have lawn vac's we pull in the fall when we mow. I built my own patterned after a brand called TRAC-VAC. They're expensive, the model I sorta copied was $2000 list and I spent about $400-$500 for steel & materials to build mine. I incorporated a few improvements to the design on mine so I could trim around all my trees better too.
Another vac to look at is made by AgriFab, they're cheaper but a decent unit. There were vac's made for Cub Cadets years ago by the name of Peco, and of couse the newer brands like Cyclone Rake.
I pulled a 30-32 inch Parker lawn sweeper for many years but it was a lot of work, emptying the sweeper into a cart then emptying the cart. My vac uses the same cart I use for normal yard chores but I made a top & sides for it, so I make a brick of leaves/clippings 32 inchs wide X 45 inchs long X 36 inchs tall. Since I load on the go they pack in and settle pretty good, I guess-timate I get 600-700# of leaves/clippings per load, maybe a bit more. Loading the cart is the easy part now, but I've been tempted to put a "Live unloading floor" with a conveyor belt or chain in my cart so I can unload without having to dig the stuff out with a pitch fork or rake. I normally get between 20 and 25 loads of leaves/clippings every fall. I used the vac about 3 weeks ago to pick up dry grass clippings, got eight loads in about 3-4 hours, about 8000# of them!
Rodney, here are photos of Denny's lawn vac setup:
And Wyatt's old truck snuck into this last photo...
And Wyatt's old truck snuck into this last photo...
Denny, ever thought of putting the top part of that trailer on a hinge at the front. I'll bet if you could break the seal on the packed grass on the top half, the load would tip out when you trip the tilt. No more digging out.
Adam Johnston, with the gearshift like that it looks to be the 582 special.
