Archive through June 02, 2010

[rnajecki]

I'm considering buying a used spindle assy for my 50C deck. My 50C deck presently has the inferior ST-745 spindle ball bearings, and as they fail I want to upgrade to spindles that use the roller bearings as I have on my 44C deck.

I only have a photo, and the seller is far away and can't open the spindle to check the bearing type. If it's a roller bearing, I can rebuild this spindle for far less than buying a ST-745.

Here's the question: if a deck spindle housing is the ribbed cast aluminum, as shown here, does that mean it has roller bearings? Or can the ST-745 fit inside the aluminum housing?

 

[jott]

Kraig, ya ya ya that stuff

charlie,

you just wait...lol

 

[jdiederichs]

About oil, the important factor to remember on engine oil is this: Recent changes called for the removal of most of the "ZDDP" in automotive oils, due to the fact it severely shortens the life of catalytic converters.
What is zddp? It is, in common terms, a zinc phospher based additive used to avoid early wear of high friction parts such as found in older engines w/o roller rockers or such friction reducing components. This additive was in motor oils for many years, saved many millions of older (design) engines. (Think 327 Chevy, that old 706 IH or KB8 International truck.)

Well, the auto makers decided that since it was messing with cat. converters, it had to go, period. And so new oil claassifications appeared, SG-SH and such with little ZDDP. Nobody told the users of course.

The ZDDP acts as tiny "ball bearings" between friction points, especially the cam lobe/lifter interface; critical for our "old tech" engines with regular lifters.

Kraig hit it on the head using John Deere Torq-Guard oil,it is an off-road design with high levels of this important compound. Ask the engineers or service guys at any non-automotive engine mfr about this please. Kohler engine oils contain approx 1500 ppm of ZDDP, your Pennzoil or Valvoline has ~ 600 ppm! Shell Rotella etc has ~ 1400 IIRC. So oil choice is becoming more critical. When I worked in service at Kohler we saw camshaft lobe wear tests proving the benefits of ZDDP as well as the bad effects w/o it.

You can do your research online, look at the oil MSDS sheets and it lists the "ingredients" of your oil of choice. Then compare to other oils.
What do I use you're thinking now? I run JD Torq-Guard in my Kohlers, and Rotella in my Chevy Avalanche, personal choices after knowing what I found.

 

[dtanner]

Jim Diederichs

I have used briggs oil in a few of my Cubs,Is that a good oil to use?

 

[mgonitzke]

Oil: I've been running Rotella in my diesel and all of my twin cylinder tractors, and Moly 30W in the singles.

Roy N.-

That spindle has to have tapered roller bearings. There never was an aluminum housing for the ST-745.

 

[jott]

As far as diesels go(trucks and tractors) id only go with Rotella or jd oil.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Eric, I forgot to mention that the Spirol pin that I have is BRAND NEW. I bought several bags of them in various sizes as used on Cubs.

Hydro Harry, yep solid dowel pin in the front hole on the drive shaft to engine coupler. I don't believe anyone is disputing that a solid dowel pin should be used there. A Spirol pin should always be used in the coupler on the hydro input shaft. The Spirol pin will absorb the shock and save the input shaft on the Hydro from any damage.

I looked but I couldn't find any more photos of "that green thing". I did find some other photos of you however.

Jim D., thanks for the info on oil. Good to know.

 

[rnajecki]

Matt - thanks for the answer I was hoping to hear!

Jim D - Wow, great info, but it seems sacrilegious to put JD oil in a CC. Perhaps there is absolution because it really goes into a Kohler and doesn't touch yellow paint.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Roy, that's how I justify using the JD oil in my Cubs. JD's used Kohler engines too.

 

[dfrisk]

ROY - I wouldn't consider the ST-745 bearing "inferior" by ANY stretch, just more expensive to replace since the inner race is part of the shaft. With a little greasing every 10-12 hours of mowing they last almost forever! I also think they pull easier. My old 44A and current 50C deck pull easier than my old stamped end 38" deck by far which has the tapered roller bearings.

I'd just replace the worn ST-745 bearing and hope your stamped bearing housings are O-K. I spent $170 for a new bearing and both halves of the housing for my 50C this spring. First St-745 I've ever had to replace and I ran the 44A for over 15 yrs and mowed a couple acres a week.

JIM D. - re Rotella oil in CC's, the 1400 PPM of ZDDP you mention, is that for the 15W-40 or straight 30W? I know Shell reduced ZDDP content in the 15W-40 but kept the 30W as before.

We have "Oil Debates" over @ RPM's forum more often than we do here, and almost eveeryone says IH #1 30W is the ONLY oil to use in ANY IH tractor engine. The newer Case/IH's with the CDC/Cummins can use the 15W-40 but under hard use the main & rod bearings in the IH engines hold up MUCH better with the srtaight 30W.

 

[jdiederichs]

Donald,

I get a few digs for using Deere's oil already, now you want me to "OK" Brigg's oil too?

I have big shoulders, so the answer is "YES" that is a good oil for air-cooled engines, high in ZDDP now. They had a "few" camshaft lobe issues and raised the zinc contend to resolve that.

Dennis, true that the 15W-40 rotella has been reformulated recently, IIRC it still has plenty of the good stuff. My advice is to find an oil with > 900 ppm of zddp (1200+ is best)which will be listed on the MSDS sheets on their respective websites.
We studied this issue to death at Kohler. Especially if you run a classic car or tractor, I'd use caution as prevention is the best method to deal with wear.

 

[digger]

It took me a while to find the manufacturer of those elusive ST745s, but my box came in today.

 

[jdiederichs]

Way to go Charlie! CCS rocks! Glad you got them.

 

[kweaver]

Jim D - Isn't JD oil Jim Diederichs oil ?

I've got a 40 pound bar of zinc ... where's my cheese grater ...........


Charlie - Them's plum purddy. I like the sight of shiney machined steel. I hate to burst yer bubble though, them's used see the worn groove around it ...

 

[fcurrier]

Don T: From what I've gathered, B&S oil is OK if you're using this battery:

It's got something to do with electrons (or is it neutrons) flowing from - to + (or is it + to -)? Also, I've heard the battery may have to be set in vertically. It's oil so confusing!

Charlie: Not quite full - eyes still blue.

 

[kweaver]

Frank - That's the wrong style battery. It has to be one with caps on top.

 

[dfrisk]

JIM D. - I know Hot Rod mag. wrote one of the first articles on the lack of ZDDP probably five years ago. I'm sure the article is still on the Internet if you search on "ZDDP". And suddenly anyone with a LARGE flat tappet cam in their hot-rod or race car was runnig Rotella T 15W-40 oil.

Oddly enough, my old Powerstroke diesel in my pickup has roller cam followers and roller rocker arms and doesn't need ZDDP. But I've used Rotella in my Kohler's & old Farmalls since 1996. Dad wasn't real good with always changing oil as frequently as he should have. It was AMAZING how much sludge came out of those old engines the first change or two. I had the valve covers off my PSD at 240-250K miles to replace the glow plugs. Tops of the heads looked like brand new castings, NO sludge at all.

Thanks for the great Info!

 

[rnajecki]

DENNIS - I confess that I don't grease the spindles as often as I should, which probably led to the failure. The stamped sheet metal spindle housing looks okay, but the hole on the top spindle cap (703-0115-0499) is egg shaped and would have to be replaced if I got a ST-745 spindle. I'll compare that cost to the $100 for a used cast aluminum spindle housing with new roller bearings, grease seals, and bearing cones. I've also seen a new cast aluminum center spindle assembly for the 50C, complete with double pulley, for $189 - so I've got a few options.

 

[rnajecki]

While we are on the subject of lubricants, does it matter which grease is used? I see grease sold for $1 to $3 and have no idea which I should get. Molybendum, Teflon, etc...

 

[kssmith]

Looking for info on replacing the clutch in the IH CC 1000. Guessing 70's for a date.
I use this cub for pulling a tiller for my 2 gardens and the clutch is sticking halfway to 3/4 out the side of pressure plate now. The 3 fingers that the clutch fits on, 1 is completely torn back in a 90 degree and the 3 holes in clutch are worn through and let go.

Where to start on tear down and getting parts etc
or even a link to a old thread with info would be appreciated.

I could get a nice pic of this mess if needed.