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Archive through July 31, 2014

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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For most all the shims that I've needed in the past I just go the the nut/bolt section in either Theisens, TSC or the local hardware store and start looking in those little boxes with specialty items. Found some pretty nice shims when doing the hydro repair that way. Or a local industrial supply shop always has what I need. I also like Dennis F.'s idea of the big box stores. They've been a great source when I'm not in the mood for a special trip.
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Just an FYI,

Since TSC (Tractor Supply) has been mentioned in the last few posts about hardware/specialty hardware and shims, I thought I would let everyone know something I found out the other day.

Dad and I had to replace the gas tank on my 1650, and to get the fuel line off the carb, it is easier to remove the air cleaner and backing plate. The previous owner had misplaced/replaced the screws that hold on the backing plate with a mismash of fasteners. We went to TSC to obtain replacements (we prefer hex socket head cap screws). We were having trouble finding what we wanted and asked an associate. They informed us that corporate had discontinued a lot of the specialty hardware and fasteners. What used to be almost 2 full sides of and aisle, now only barely covers one. Fortunately I have a fastenall about 30 seconds from my house.

Just didn't want someone to get an unpleasant surprise like we did.
 
BRIAN - YES, stellite valves are worth it. The standard valves are made from a higher nickel content steel.

SCOTT - I had a really good True-Value hardware store that had a lot of good hardware, all the way up to 1"-12 X 12" Grd 8. But they down-sized too.

I also have to drive buy my local Fastenal to get to that hardware store... they, Fastenal, have a really screwy pricing structure on stuff. And I really HATE the "broken bag/box" pricing. If the box hasn't been opened, they basically charge you for the full box and they keep what you don't take.

Hard to beat Blains Farm & Fleet, different grades of bolts are priced per pound, you bag them yourself.
 
Frank C - up there in eastcoast Spudland USA and Wood piles. Funny you ask that. The manual says to install the shims on the outside but I always liked putting them on the inside myself. Dennis claims he's giving away all his secrets, and now I am too.

I also think I had the best source for shims - my neighbor that was a retired machinist with his own lathe and brass stock that made them. The first ones he made me had the 3/4" ID. When I asked for some 1" ID he asked for some 3/4" back to make them. They didn't have much OD left when I got them back but still worked nicely. I sure miss those old days - now all I've got is a few big box stores - but a new ACE did open up, and I see some Fastenal pickups around so there must be a store to. I'll have to check them out but with the 169 up on a pedestal I really don't need anymore shims.
 
Brandon,

I believe Stellite valves are all you can get now days. The old standard metal valves went out in the late 60's/early 70's as unleaded gas was mandated by the EPA for new cars in 1976 and leaded gas was phased out in the early 80's. The lead provided lubrication at the valve seat for the standard valves. Stellite valves are better and don't need the lead for lubrication.
 
Max C.i just recieved my decals ,from [maple hunter decals in texas] this was for my 123 cub .very good people to deal with ,i paid $37.00 for a full set ,that was grill.hood.and dash .i believe around $10.00 for the dash .now there is a $7.00 shipping ,it may not be that much for just the dash ,also 1-[812]894-9759],another family member is saleing them .hope this hepls David
 
I'm planing to take my 127 to the Monroe show and also the 50th Cowlitz Prairie Grange Thrashing B at Toledo,Wa.
 
Dennis,

I agree about Blain's Farm and Fleet. I miss having one close. I only get to one now when we go see Mom and Dad in East-Central Illinois. We visit the huge one in Urbana. Where I am in the Indy area, we don't have any "real" farm stores. (No Big R or F&F) All we have is Rural King, and not all Rural King's are created equal. There have been times when F&F had what we needed on the shelf for our Cubs. We broke the pulley on the bottom of the tiller gearbox once, and they actually had an exact replacement on the shelf, along with what seemed like 1,000 other pulleys and sheaves...... but, this was also a couple decades ago too.....
 
HARRY - It may not be as nice as a "Machinist in the Neighborhood" like you had, but 20 years ago we used a lot of "select fit" shim washers in our food & chemical processing equipment. We bought "Adjustable thickness" shim washers in several different ID's & OD's made from 304 stainless steel from our local Motion Industries outlet. They were made by Spirol Industries, same co. that makes roll pins. They were made like they were stamped out of sheets of shim stock all at the same time, layers and layers on top of each other... You could peal layers off to make them thinner. Do a search for "Laminated shims".
 
Ed L. glad to hear your going to be there. Only bringing one? your profile say you got bunch down your way. I'll be bringing the 106,149,123 and the off topic thing that crawls.
Harry you in? anyone else?
 
I'm not to sure who is riding with me to Monroe. A friend has a 62 O but it's painted red, it will be there. The fellow also has a IH A and a H.
 
Engine ID plate/tag question. I've read here and there that reproduction tags are available. Anyone here have any ideas as to whether they are in fact available? Thanks all.
 
Has anyone ever converted the mechanical disc brakes to hydraulic ? If so, how about some details. Thanks.
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DOUG - I'm sure somebody has done that. But unless you used some salvaged motorcycle brakes, the rotors, calipers, and master cylinders, it would be expensive, and depending on the source you used for used motorcycle parts, even that could get expensive.

I have seen a couple guys use parts from a Super Garden tractor to put dual mechanical brakes on a tractor with just the clutch/brake pedal.
 
Doug W. I tried to find used motorcycle hydraulic brake components to put dual brakes on a 782. The prices quoted on parts from scrap piles changed my Scotch mind after stopping at only two scrap yards. I have mechanical dual brakes on it now. I used the pedals from an off topic tractor. I still have a fully functional clutch/brake pedal. The dual brakes use the same calipers but work independently of the original pedal. I posted pictures on this site but can't remember when.
 
Terry D -- I've run across this before...it's for WH...not sure if it's a close enough match?
 
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