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Archive through July 30, 2016

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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kide

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 27, 2006
Messages
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Gerry Ide
I can't quote a source right now (not home where my resources are), but the "L" terminal was for high constant loads including the headlights and cigarette lighter. There are lots of sources for the original Delco documents, including wiring and how to adjust on the 'net....

Edit - I just found more info in the Sandbox, of all places...not sure where I got it from back in 2007.
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/22744/71437.html?1197448936
 
Well,, Got the brake lights, wait, ummm I Mean "Taillights" all squared away, Whew! My Damn leg is cramping from all that stomping on the "Brake Pedal" trying to get'em to light up!
Marty said try the headlight switch, and no sooner than I gave that knob a big oLe crank to the right, it was like:

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OLe Clark when the lights Finally came on!!!
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Anyway figured I'd open up the box of goodies Charlie sent.
Not gonna spend whole bunch of time in garage 2day so I dug around and found a quickie.

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This shouldn't cause me a whole bunch of grief surely!

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Tap tap tap,,,,

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<font size="+2"><font color="0000ff">NICE!</font></font>

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Nice quick easy one today! Built much heavier/stronger than original, even comes w/ pin.
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. PN/ IH 545728 R1


Thanks Charlie,
 

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Ok, it's making sense now Marty! The voltage regulator for the IH Cub Cadet Original, and the following models 70, and 100, all use the same four terminal voltage regulators (IH-121577-C1). The "gen" terminal is on one side of the vr, while the field, battery, and load terminals are all on the opposite side.

Voltage regulator #IH 545130-R92 is another four terminal vr. This time, the "G" terminal stands for GND, or ground. This terminal is also on one side of the vr by it's self. Field, GEN, and BAT terminals are all on the opposite side of the GND terminal.

Ok, so now voltage regulator #IH-545130-R93 is a three terminal vr, having the fiels, gen., and battery terminals all in a row on one side of the vr. .

I don't know the reason my 125 has the R92 vr. on it, but I was told the 125 started and ran fine. I don't recall a charging issue with the battery or not. My model 72 has the same vr. and harness as my model 71 did. The only difference between the 71 and 72 notes in Charlies FAQ's, is on the model 71, the gray lead is running from the magnetic switch to the battery terminal on the voltage regulator. While, on the model 72, diagram shown with a charge indicator, the gray conductor is coming from the (-) negative terminal of the charge indicator to the battery terminal on the voltage regulator. I also have a spare model 100 harness complete, which shows IH-121577-C1 as being correct for it's respected model.

So, when I began taking pictures and videos of my 125 before tear-down, I noted that green custom wire coming off the GND terminal on the voltage regulator going straight to the starter generator
support bracket mount cap screw.

My plan is to inspect the three terminal voltage regulator, and install it in my 125. This is because I don't know if a 125 had the R92 voltage regulator, and if it did, was the ground wire included into the wire harness/loom? My 125 harness does not include a ground wire for such purpose.

Again, my "goal" with my 125, was to get it as BACK as close as possible, to "correct police" condition as I can!

Side note, I seen an officer of the police department today, he has a motorist stopped on his Harley Davidson motor cycle! The bike was very well taken care of, and just reminded me of the old days, when the officers would be sitting behind the bill-board, and come screaming out from hiding after the motorist speeding! Thought it was neat to see today.

Going to continue patience, and care with the remaining harness and voltage regulator installment. from this point, I can then focus on the k301, and carb! Finish up cleaning the grill and hood, and hopefully get a spark from this great, IH Cub Cadet model 125 garden tractor! Takes some time to completely go through one of these garden tractors with care, that's for sure!

Jason W, Charlie is an amazing help! He knows just what we need, and that too is a huge help with these garden tractors!

Well, what about Charlie? He pulled out the 100 with trencher. Wonder what the next couple months will have in store for it?

Jim, again, very nice find,...1650 with loader!!

Ger
 
Gerry,

Yes, the lights are connected to the same terminal on the ignition switch along with the "L" on the VR.
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John L,

According to Charlie's new (second one) VR (IH 545130-R93) the Gen terminal is on the bottom. This makes it a 4 terminal too.
So what are the three terminals on the side? Field, Batt, and Ground?
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So the "L" terminal can still be used on later models.
It is not shown in Roland's wiring diagrams. What would it be connected to? Lights? Or as Gerry said, "heavy constant loads"?
 
My inclination would be to leave it without a connection if the original was a three terminal ..

This has gotta be the most often discussed "mystery" on the forum...
 
Looking at this magnetic oil plug in my box of goodies, thinking about ready for oil change anyway. So just flipping through to see what recommendations are.

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I've never owned a Kohler before, I'm also not real familiar with small engines in general. Can't see anything that would indicate this head has been unbuttoned recently, or even Ever if that could be Possible on a 1974? It starts right up and runs fine though. Doesn't smoke or consume oil, nothing noticeable anyway!

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I'm hoping someone here might comment on the Manual lubrication table Note: Do not substitute 10w, also if this K321A could possibly have the original factory head gasket & rings?

I've never done a leak down test on it and I've read a few different methods of getting around the compression release on the exhaust valve for an accurate compression test.


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I now need some engine guys to add a little input.
Now back to working on the K301 I just removed the valves and the exhaust valve was barely there. It's obviously the one on the bottom. Apparently this engine hadn't been opened up for quite some time. I grabbed another valve just to compare and will go back with new.

What causes such wear on the stem other than 37 years of hot carbon flying by?

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These two pics show how out of round (right, both pics) the top is. I can't see how this engine was running as well as it was. I'm sure it wasn't long before a major failure set in.

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.
 

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Check the valve guides for wear.
Most of the time, the exhaust guide will wear more than the intake due to carbon deposits. The maximum wear limit on the 10hp, 12hp, 14hp and 16hp Kohler engines, it's .006" for the intake and .008" for the exhaust. If the guides are worn, install new guides or have a new thin-wall bronze liner installed.
 
Jason W,

If you can find it, this (in my opinion) is about as good as you can get.

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My dad used it when I was a little fella, and I have been using it ever since. My truck has almost 300 thousand miles on it, and the engine has never been worked on.
Sorry to say this oil is very hard to find now.

Another good alternative is:

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It can be bought almost anywhere, and from what I have heard it is good stuff. The price is decent too.



Wayne S,

You said the key word: HOT!
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P.S. Thanks for the info, Charlie!!
 

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John L,

Before I forget, (and that seems to happen a lot lately!)
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You can't do all that intensive work on the 125 without sharing some pics with us!
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Jason is making us all look bad by posting some fine pics.

Charlie is holding out on us on the "ground saw project" pics too.

I am trying to get a 122 up and running so I can sell it to make room for a restore on a 100.

The heat isn't helping any. It gets up to around 100 every day, and that ain't good on a old man like me.
Can't wait to start on the 100 and see what all I will need from Charlie.
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Marty OMG first thing came to my mind when I seen ur "pic" was Ricky Rudd when he drove the Havoline 28 after his ownership years with Tide. He did good w/ the Wood bros also there for a while. They had a pretty good short track program goin. <font size="+2">Anyways</font> I do recal seeing the Rotella recently. A pic is worth a thousand words, if you had'a just typed Havoline w/ no pic that #28 image burned into my brain, along w/ a few other things, prolly wouldn't have jumped out at me like that. Thanks!
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Now if the 42yr old exhaust valve in my K321 is at least a little better shape than Wayne's pic, I'll be good for prolly 5-10more yrs? Hopefully,
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OOOOooo an oil debate?? LOL..


Jason, I prefer Mobil 1. FWIW. dino oil isn't what is used to be for these flat tappet motors.
 
I've run this since day one and will continue.
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I said I got it in the shop, I never said anything about workin on it, LOL
That would be a winter project anyway.
The
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backhoe takes precedence before anything else come winter.
 

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Mike F -

No "Debate Whatsoever" , well not Yet anyway. My Exact words were "I'm hoping someone here might comment" and I left it at That!!!!!!

LoL
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ALL my automobile's get the John Force stuff,,,,
And this whole Straight 30weight is new to me! Thanks!
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Charlie's FAQ / Lubricants is showing this:

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I'm assuming it would be "OK" to stray just a bit here?


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Jason W.
I only get above 32, 4 1/2 months out of the year if I'm lucky!
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2 months and the wood stove fires up!!!!
 

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