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Archive through July 30, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Jessy i use the same oil that i use in the Hydro transmissions. Hytran.
 
Thanks Luther...I'll check that today. This is a black replacement engine (K301) and is very tight with no oil consumption at all. This problem gradually started coming on and eventually I got just the "click" when I turn the key. It acts just like a dying battery but that's not the case here.
 
Good Sunday Morning, One and All!!!

Jessy G. Narrow Frame Hydraulic Unit Operator's Manual Scroll down to page 10 and check under Filling the System. It will give you the info there. (Thank You, Charlie for providing this on your site...

Charlie's Cub Manuals.

Kraig M. Sweet IH big tractor pictures. I bet a former neighbor still has his Hydro 656 wide front with the ROPS that he purchased new. He's long reitred only I just can't imagine him ever parting with that tractor.
 
Hi All,

I hear what I think is a bearing noise at very low idle on my 682. The only thing I can think of is the PTO. The blowup says there is a bushing. Does this need lubrication?
 
Norm B.
If it's the PTO, there's only one fix I know of.
That's replace the bearing, which the bushing is attached to.
Course I've never had that particular one apart, so I may be blowin hot air at ya!
 
Hi Charlie,

Is the bearing pressed fitted into the armature? Where do you get this bearing?
 
Norm,
It's part of the armature assembly P/N 759-3304.
AFAIK, you can't get just the bearing.

I just had to replace that sucker on my off topic 1811 this spring.

Sponsors have parts.
biggrin.gif
 
Norm-

If you grind off the peened-over areas that hold the bearing in the clutch, you can remove the bearing, take it to a bearing supply place, and get a replacement. I have heard of several people doing this, but I don't have the bearing number.
 
Somehow or another my mower deck drive belt became shredded and I can not find out what size it was. This is on a 105 with a U1113 deck. All I can think of is that in my haste the belt was installed with a twist as it has always run fine.
Would it be better to use one of those fancy schmancy blue belts? Lastly what is the proper tension for the belt anyway. I have the manual for the tractor but not for the deck.
Any help would be appreciated.
 
Thanks Charlie, I was looking at the other FAQ.
My problem now is I do not see the U1113 deck. It measures 48" from side to side but I hate to assume that is the 48" as it does not cut right to the edge.
 
I was doing some repair work on the shifter of my '61'O today.I've never had but 1 or 2 covers off before.Anyway there is heaver rust near the top of the inside of transmission.Down around gears looks fine. Will this hurt anything?
BTW-50yrs ago today,7/31/61 I was born!!!
ROD
 
I Dont Get No Respect...when I was born, the Dr. smacked my mother instead of me. <font size="-2">Another 5 yrs and your eligable for discounts!</font>

Oh, my poor Cubbie has a flat! 150' from an outlet for the compressor. Ah yes the little 12volter from HFT to the rescue.
 
TOM - You have to either measure from outer blade tip to outer blade tip with the blade parallel to each other like _-_ under the deck, OR, the first two numbers of your deck should be either a 38 or a 42 which is the width of cut that determines which belt you need. The U1113 is the revision or spec number, not the size of your deck. There's other ways to tell a 38 inch deck from a 42 inch, like the belt covers over the outer spindles have two sets of holes to grease the spindles, the "inner" hole closer to the tractor means it's a 38" deck, the outer hole means 42".

There's overhang beyond the end of the blades on the discharge end of the deck for safety purposes. Not too many 10 HP tractors got 48" decks. But then ANYTHING is possible after 40+ yrs.
 
Evening all, still fighting electrical gremlins on the cub, got the SNAFU fixed last night, went to start it..and no spark...so i slept on the issue and figured my coil had to be bad. Today, a friend of mine and myself were workin on it tryin to figure it out...and the entire tractor went dead, same nasty habit it used to have. the source: my friggin amp meter. I cleaned and tightened the connections and made sure they were in correct order...and its still actin goofy and cutting in and out of power. also the red wire going to it is heating up which indicates either a short or a lose connection (even tho i made sure it was tight)...i still believe i have a bad coil as well, because once the power was working, the old school screwdriver arc test didnt show any power, and, pulling the plug out and grounding it on a headbolt and cranking the engine didnt work either...frustrating to say the least. the coil is old im sure, and my plug wire needs to be replaced (ugly but still has good continuity) and the coil was painted by the P.O. so i cleaned it up and masked it when i painted it, then cleaned it again last night, still nothin...theres gotta be somethin im overlookin, right?
bash.gif
 
Happy birthday Rodney...hope things are looking up for you.

Whatever happens, keep on cubbin'.
 
Dennis,
Thanks.. the first two numbers are 42. The plate reads 421 stamped in letters and the U1113 is printed. So it looks like it's a 42. After looking at the choices of belt sizes it probably would be obvious if I had the wrong size.
 

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