Archive through July 30, 2010

[bbailey]

I have a recently acquired 128 and it is a clunker.
The guy I bought from did not tell me how bad the engine was. Anyway so it is now going to be a winter project. In spite of it's condition I do like it and have decided get another cc to put a loader on. Question which model would work better a with a loader?

 

[T-Mo]

I built my Brinly sleeve hitch adapter. I also picked up an Agri-Fab box blade. I wanted to paint the hitch adapter, but I got a little anxious to "play" with the box blade and to see if everything will fit and work okay. So I put it on the tractor while the hitch adapter is still in it's primer gray color.

The Agri-fab box blade is okay - it was only $50. But I can see areas that it might be a little weak in. It looks like someone bought it, left it outside to rust, but never used it.

 

[bbailey]

Question: Are there any tricks a newbie like me should know about pulling a 128 engine? I'm not sure what to do about the clutches. There is nothing I can see that tells me what order things should be done in. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Bob B.

 

[dfrisk]

ROBERT - Not much to do to pull an engine out of a CC. Only four bolts hold it in. Thnk they're 3/8" NC, heads on the bottom side of the frame, two inside the channel the frt axle sits in, two behind the frt pair about 6-7 inches.

Disconnect the throttle & choke cables, wire to the points & starter/generator, mark them with tape labels so you replace them correctly. Slide the engine forward about an inch to disengage the pilot bearing & three driver pins from the clutch friction disc and lift the engine out. Engine & S/G weigh over 125# so help or a lift may help.

You may have to loosen or unfasten the turnbuckle that adjusts the PTO clutch to get the end to slide forward enough to disengage the transmission clutch.

 

[tdelikowski]

In response to the guy that wants to take an engine out of a cub cadet. I would also suggest that you jack the front of the tractor up high enough so that you can tilt the front axle down. This makes it easier to get at the 2 bolts that are located in the front axle channel. When doing this I also use a ratcheting gear wrench as there isn't enough room to get a socket and rachett under there. You could use a combination wrench or box wrench but the gear wrench makes it much quicker.

 

[bbailey]

Thanks Tom and Dennis, Just what I was looking for.
Bob B

 

[dtanner]

Robert M. Bailey

A 129 makes a great loader tractor. I do like mine.

 

[mfrade]

Jimmy L., as a complete shot in the dark. I think I'd replace the motor oil with Mobil 1. And replacing the spark plug with a new one from maybe a different supplier even, might be a good suggestion. I know we all hate this swappin' parts business but, this is surely a stumper!

 

[dbellamy]

Paul, if you are doing a restoration and want the correct paint colour(spelling for Don T.)for the Original you will have to get it mixed and put into spray cans. I did this and it was not cheap! It was around $25 a can at a napa paint & body shop supplier. You can save some money if you get the cans refilled as they charged me $7 bucks for the can alone then 18 for the paint. Of course I found that out later. Same with the proper white for the Original. Otherwise you will need a gun and spray it on which is probably the way to go.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Terry R., looks good!

If you put too much weight on the frame the Agri-Fab blade will bend where the hitch frame bolts to the main frame. I know this because I lent my Agri-Fab box blade to a friend (not Art) and he tested it out and returned it bent.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Terry R., I probably should have been a bit more specific. The draw bar part bent where it bolts to the main frame. It should be easy to fix whenever I get around to it. I also plan on adding in a thicker piece of stock to prevent it from bending again. Oh and I don't intend to lend it out again, that might be the best way to prevent it from getting bent again.

 

[vthomley]

Hmmm, I wonder what friend that is.... Did I ever tell how nice a smooth the area around my shed is..... I know a guy with a welder! I'd even make the piece to be welded if I had dimensions...

Have a great weekend everyone!

 

[T-Mo]

Kraig,
This one was put together before I got it, but the piece from the main frame to the tractor may be upside down on this one. See item no. 1 below:

If you don't mind, would you check yours.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Terry, now that you mention it, yes, the one you have is upside down. I suppose it's possible that it was used on a larger tractor and intentionally mounted upside down.

If I were to use mine on my AC-620 I'd have to mount the draw bar like on yours, or do like I did with my sleeve hitch plow when I used it behind the AC-620, mount the sleeve hitch portion of my CAT-0 to sleeve hitch adapter upside down.

 

[kide]

Jimmy L:
Based on the fact that you've done several fairly complex things to this engine and it's still running (

) I have stayed away from the more obvious things like changing plugs....but Don's suggestion is a valid one, as a bad plug is hard to troubleshoot (what will fire across an open electrode may not under compression).
I've gone back and read most of your posts, one thing I didn't see asked is whether, as it is stalling, if you have tried choking it, and what the results of that were.

As I mumbled about yesterday, if it's getting good A/F mixture and spark, it starts to look mechanical.. You have said that it turns freely up to compression right after it stalls, so we can assume it's not seized... more off the wall
1: Muffler - is there a loose baffle or obstruction in the muffler?
3: Does the Automatic Compression Release (ACR) work properly - is it cranking over good when you start it?

 

[T-Mo]

Thanks, Kraig. I was wondering about why it didn't seem level when I was putting it on my 104. Someone from across the street pointed that out to me, and it made sense. Thanks, for confirming it.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Terry, one more thing, the parts diagram you posted is for the model number: 45-0265. However it appears that you have model number: 45-02651.

 

[lhinds]

Jimmy Long; Got my 1250 out today to plow a greens patch in the garden. Got to the garden and throttle up, and it ran fine for about 3 minutes and started loosing power and died. After about 10 minutes it started and done the same thing again. I checked everything with no apparent problems. Let it run one half throttle for 15 minutes and no problems. To shorten the story it was the choke cable in a bind, and working it's way out at full throttle. I didn't notice black smoke to indicate flooding. I relocated the cable and it fixed the problem.
Just my experience.

 

[wshytle]

Luther-

It's so nice to hear a complete problem and fix in one post. I love a simple fix especially when there's work to get done.

Good going!

 

[wmiller]

Jimmy, When I bought my 147 the PO said it ran but when I went to look at it,it wouldn't start we tinkered with it,but no start. I offered him less and he took it. When I got it home I couldn't figure out what was wrong, there was a new spark plug in it that fired when out of the engine,getting fuel etc. I found an old plug in my junk drawer and put it in and it started right up! It was either a defective plug or maybe it had been dropped and cracked the center insulator.