Archive through July 27, 2016

[hydroharry]

John - you may have broke this thing. It's just you and me so far today. I know it's not election day so I don't know where everyone else is.

I'm quite certain the Kohler K Series "AQS" version (i.e. Model K321AQS) came out before the Quiet Line by IH. I feed certain Kohler and IH collaborated since the engine design allowed for the tractor to have side panel enclosures. It certainly has to be hotter inside the enclosed area so the firewall makes sense, although I don't know if it is technically a firewall or more of a heat or isolation shield. The QL also was first to use plastic gas tanks so maybe that becomes a shield requirement.

Anyway, I was thinking maybe you don't really have a problem with your 1450 rearend. Maybe there's a rock stuck in the wheel weights and it's rolling around.

 

[jbaker]

I agree with Harry about the rearend, is there any other indications of a problem there?. Only cub time for me today was spent on a MTD cub

 

[nbodin]

John- to touch on what Harry said. If it has wheel weights maybe bolts are loose. It really makes a racket if they are

 

[mschairer]

Hello:

Awhile back my original slowed down to a stop. It runs and goes into gear, but doesn't move. Is there a roll pin that gradually snapped that I need to replace?

Thanks,

mark

 

[fcurrier]

Dear John: (C. Lazar): I've pondered off and on all day about your comment about not putting wheel weights on the tractor that you hope your girlfriend will learn to use. I, personally, feel (and I mean the feeling from the seat) that wheel weights make these tractors "feel" more stable. My 2 cents - they're not just for looks.

 

[jbaker]

add my two cents to Franks

 

[hydroharry]

Mark S - you're gonna have to wait for one of the Elite Original users to chime in. It's one of very few of the IHCC models that I've never owned or worked on. Because I have no idea of how the clutch to belt drive is set up I can only guess your problem could be a roll pin or an allen screw or something similar. I'm certain you'll get some answers/thoughts/ideas/guesses as soon as the Original users show up.

 

[sblunier]

Wheel weights do more than make them FEEL more stable. .....they make them more stable......

I'll add my $.02 as well!!!!

 

[jclazar]

Hydro Harry, I thought some "later" Quiet Line models came with cooling fins on the special aluminum oil pans? Or am I thinking of something else? The cooling fins I'm thinking of would have been, and served the same purpose as to how IH got around heat temperatures with out the use of a fluid cooler on the hydro model IH Cub Cadets.

Nate B, I never thought of that. I do have two carriage bolts per rear wheel weight. Always afraid I'm going to over tighten, and pull the back side of the rim inward. I'll give that a check!

Jeff B, I hope you two are right! Besides the leak from the cork gasket, my 1450 has an easy life. I mostly just keep it clean, and tinker with it. The noise I hear is intermittent. Always by the right axle carrier,....speed of the tractor in motion really don't have much to do with the noise. I can't find a rime or reason for the unusual noise, that's not too loud at all.

Frank C, My 1450 has, in Farmall Red, one 26# IH rear wheel weight per rear axle. I come to believe I can really tear up a drive line, or worse, with out careful practice while equipped with wheel weights. That is my concern about the noise I'm hearing. She does listen good to my operating instruction, I just about let her call the 1450 "hers"! We been engaged just over two years now, and this fall is our big wedding day. We're both first and last time wedding couples.

Well, I've rattled quite a bit. I never mean to steal the floor. Again, I have to make time for my passion, which is here at this site. I enjoy all the information concerning all models IH made.

Keep up the outstanding help, keep on the sunny side of life!!!

 

[brhodes]

Mark,

I'm not one of the Elite guys, but have one.

What have you checked so far?

Belt bad or loose? Clutch good / adjusted?

To answer your question. There will be two spiral pins in the front. 1 for the clutch to shaft, the 2nd will hold the clutch spring tension.

Behind the rag joint the coupling will have a pin or a bolt there as well. The coupling in front of the rag joint is welded to the shaft.

It been awhile since I looked under mine, so someone correct me if I'm wrong. It wouldn't be the first time this week my memory failed me.

I would be sure to check the belt and clutch, but at 50+ years it could be any of the pins.

http://cubfaq.com/Oclutch.html

Good luck, let me know what you find.


Bill

 

[kmcconaughey]

Mark, Have you checked to see if the driveshaft is spinning when the clutch is released? Here's some images to help you locate the likely culprits at the front of the clutch assembly and the yoke at the rear, that Bill mentioned.

Not sure if you have a service manual. Just in case here's a link to one.

 

[kmcconaughey]

John L., just a thought, does your 1450 have external brakes? If so, perhaps they could be in need of servicing and are the source of the noise?

 

[brhodes]

Thanks Kraig,

I have not see the one in the very front. Mine is not that clean and perdy on the underside. Do you wash and wax the underside as well?

Bill

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bill, no washing or waxing. That photo was taken back in 2008 during the refurb of my Original. Actual refurb took place from 2004 - 2009.

 

[jclazar]

Kraig, Yup... my 1450 has "external", or rear disc brake system. A while ago, I went through all components, cleaned, inspected, lubed, and reassembled, then lastly, adjusted. I did note that the actual pads were worn down, and should be replaced. Aside from that, I let the 1450 run a spell just under half throttle to observe hearing the noise. No noise was noticed when running, not moving. I'm pretty sure the cork gasket is leaking more than before.

Kraig, I'm adding the factory correct headlight switch. So, from the Operator's Manual International Cub Cadet 72, 104, 105, 124, And 125 Tractors #1 082 659 R2.Rev.3. 1-69, on pages 21-22, it looks like the power wire with fuse-link gets service from the "left-side" terminal from the charge indicator. The service is connected to the light switch terminal closest to the engine side, while the terminal on the opposite side on the switch, supplies both the headlights, and rear tail light. The only ground I notice is between the two headlights. Is it safe to assume that the switch is "self grounding"?

I tried my best to take pictures of the works before disassembly, but if you notice on page 22, the wire color legend continues. My 125 seems to have been built in March of 1969. All the wires from the black wire loom are wrapped in cloth-like asbestos material. The help I'm receiving in determining the identification placement of conductors from the manual is, well.... like triple looking things over! My "after-market" ( made in U.S.A ) voltage regulator has three terminals on one side, and one ground terminal on the opposite side. I don't suppose I would know that either, from the manual, whether or not I have the correct two pole vr on my 125. Note: the harness on my 125 does not in anyway look hacked, it all looks completely original minus the "custom" lighting conductors, and fues block.

Now , my model 72, ( built in March, 1968 ) from the same IH Cub Cadet Series, in fact, has all the correct conductor colors, with out any asbestos wrap.

 

[kmcconaughey]

John L., the switch doesn't need to be grounded, it just "makes" or "breaks" the hot (+12v) connection to the lights. The circuit is completed to ground at the head lights via a wire jumper to the grill and at the tail light through the light fixture itself to the frame. If you have an ohm meter you could check where each wire in the harness goes, as in find each end of a given wire then connect it accordingly. Do this WITHOUT a battery connected of course!

 

[hydroharry]

Hey Kraig - what happens to John L if he does it "WITH" the battery connected?
(I'm thinking John needs a little buzz

It's only 12V as you said)

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hydro, nothing much will happen to John, his ohm meter on the other hand...

... and if his meter goes

John might be all:

 

[hydroharry]

Well Kraig - I guess I thought you're instructions to John weren't real clear. I think you were referring to checking continuity with the Ohm meter once John finds each end of the wire. Isn't that what you meant when you said "find each end of a given wire and then connect it accordingly". As for going POOF and BANG (I dont' have access to those emoicons), well I guess that's up to you and John

.

Wayne - we haven't had a report for couple days. How ya doing on the 1200?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hydro, I mean for John to use an ohm meter by connecting one probe to a wire then use the other probe to systematically check each wire in the harness until he gets "continuity" or zero resistance (or very low resistance as in less than an ohm or 2) which will mean he found the other end of the wire. If he then compares his findings to the drawing of the wire harness that is in the Owner's Manual, see below, he should be able to figure out where each wire goes.

John L., hopefully the above makes sense.