Dan G., if you email the photos of the PTO handles to me I'll post them. My email is in my profile.
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Archive through July 27, 2014
- Thread starter mhomrighausen
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Milton, WELCOME!
Not sure why there's no serial number...
Not sure why there's no serial number...
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Milton - welcome to the IHCC Forum. I'm not an Original expert by any means but have heard of others claiming theirs had no serial number only to discover it was stamped quite lightly into the casting. Some had mutiple layers of paint to remove before it became visible, and others had to work the surface over with some type of solvent before it became visible enough to read. Hopefully someone on hear must will also have experienced this before and can advise you on various methods to try.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Brian - with regard to your front wheel bearings, you mentioned up/down play. It really shouldn't have any. I am wondering if you have some "end play" that you're measuring as up/down play. If you have the Service Manual you'll find some limited info on Manual Page 2-15 (or page 36 of the pdf file format). It does call out maximum of 1/32" end play, and if you exceed this you need to add 3/4" ID shims to the outer end of the spindle. (Apparently IH forgot they updated the spec of the later QL models to 1" spindles even tho the Service Manual was updated in 1979). I was fortunate enough to have a machinist friend in CT that made brass shims for me with 1" ID and about 1/64" thick, that I used on my 1450. I don't recall the OD of the shim but I had him make them slightly less than the OD of the washer used on the outside. I never did quite figure out how to measure the actual end play so what I did is add shims until I could no longer spin the wheel, then removed one shim.
Now, about the grease - I never had any wheels that had the grease zerks (but wondered why IH never used them). I packed the bearings by hand using the old automotive method, installed the bearing into the wheel. The bearing has to fit very snuggly. If it would just fall out on its own then I'd remove and use a hammer on the outer edge of the wheel where the bearing inserts. Just light tapping on the wheel would usually tighten up the fit so the bearing would stay on it's own. Then I added the shims until I had the snug fit described above, and once I determined the correct number of shims necessary I added a mound or dam of grease on the inside of the wheel before sliding the wheel on for the final time. This method should give you years and years of service without a bearing or spindle failure.
Now, about the grease - I never had any wheels that had the grease zerks (but wondered why IH never used them). I packed the bearings by hand using the old automotive method, installed the bearing into the wheel. The bearing has to fit very snuggly. If it would just fall out on its own then I'd remove and use a hammer on the outer edge of the wheel where the bearing inserts. Just light tapping on the wheel would usually tighten up the fit so the bearing would stay on it's own. Then I added the shims until I had the snug fit described above, and once I determined the correct number of shims necessary I added a mound or dam of grease on the inside of the wheel before sliding the wheel on for the final time. This method should give you years and years of service without a bearing or spindle failure.
Dennis, Marty,
The Louisville plant was originally a Curtis-Wright airplane factory when it was built. After World War II ended, the plant became available and IH bought it, rather than build a factory on ground they had obtained for that purpose at Wood River, IL. IH built the foundry on the north end of the plant, and it (the foundry) came on line in Jan 1949. It was adjacent to the airport, but not on airport property. The airport did not obtain the property until after IH closed the plant in 1984.
The Louisville plant was originally a Curtis-Wright airplane factory when it was built. After World War II ended, the plant became available and IH bought it, rather than build a factory on ground they had obtained for that purpose at Wood River, IL. IH built the foundry on the north end of the plant, and it (the foundry) came on line in Jan 1949. It was adjacent to the airport, but not on airport property. The airport did not obtain the property until after IH closed the plant in 1984.
Milton
The S/N is not on the transmission, but stamped into right side of the gear reduction housing, the cast part between the transmission case and the front frame section. If you cannot find the S/N there, I would say that the reduction housing has been replaced with a new one (rather than a used one) at some point in the past, rather than the tractor excaping the factory without a number. However, I have a "homemade" cub cadet that was being built,by a local welder. He liked the 70/100 Cub Cadets, but because he only had one arm, they were not user friendly for him so he decided to build his own version. Due to his health issues it was never finished, and sat in his garage from the late 60's until I got it a coupla of years ago, after he passed away. Everything on the tractor was new at the time it was installed, including the wheels, tires, metal,engine etc. The transmission is for a 70/100 but does not have a S/N on it, has never been painted, except for the casting sealer IH used, and has never had any oil or fluid of any kind in it. I will not speculate as to how the builder may have come by a new transmission, but perhaps your "O" came by a new gear reduction housing in a similar way.
The S/N is not on the transmission, but stamped into right side of the gear reduction housing, the cast part between the transmission case and the front frame section. If you cannot find the S/N there, I would say that the reduction housing has been replaced with a new one (rather than a used one) at some point in the past, rather than the tractor excaping the factory without a number. However, I have a "homemade" cub cadet that was being built,by a local welder. He liked the 70/100 Cub Cadets, but because he only had one arm, they were not user friendly for him so he decided to build his own version. Due to his health issues it was never finished, and sat in his garage from the late 60's until I got it a coupla of years ago, after he passed away. Everything on the tractor was new at the time it was installed, including the wheels, tires, metal,engine etc. The transmission is for a 70/100 but does not have a S/N on it, has never been painted, except for the casting sealer IH used, and has never had any oil or fluid of any kind in it. I will not speculate as to how the builder may have come by a new transmission, but perhaps your "O" came by a new gear reduction housing in a similar way.
