Dennis...Really,DBrian Millers work isnt all that great? Ive talked to a few people and heard pretty much good stuff from him.His prices seem fair. What about Zach Kerber , have you done any buisness with him. Honestly I'm just looking to purchase a new drivshaft and spring and have the plates turned. I'm not planning on havin any machine work done on my motor or anything like that. I got somone in mind for that. Anyways guess I'll figure it out sooner or later. Its only been goin on 2 years now. LOL
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Archive through July 23, 2012
- Thread starter jsalatino
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Jonathon, I'd spend $$$ with the sponsors here versus elsewhere - click on all the colorful boxes on the top of the page. They are the ones who help keep this website alive and wonderful!!!
A regular Stock Clutch and turned plates are very strong.
FYI - this Model 122 Cub Cadet below has a stock clutch plate, stock spring, it does have an extra machine bushing squeezing or tightening the spring. While pulling a sled it ran out of traction in 1st gear before the clutch slipped !!! It has a very powerful 12hp motor. I had a bunch of weight on it, weighing in a approx 1600 pounds with me on it... Currently my teaser spring is broken, but I'll have it back in tip top shape again soon ready to pull anything and everything.
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A regular Stock Clutch and turned plates are very strong.
FYI - this Model 122 Cub Cadet below has a stock clutch plate, stock spring, it does have an extra machine bushing squeezing or tightening the spring. While pulling a sled it ran out of traction in 1st gear before the clutch slipped !!! It has a very powerful 12hp motor. I had a bunch of weight on it, weighing in a approx 1600 pounds with me on it... Currently my teaser spring is broken, but I'll have it back in tip top shape again soon ready to pull anything and everything.
Vincent... Yeah I'd say from the looks of it that thing would pull just about anything you wanted too. Thats a cood lookin cub you got there. Have you ever replaced the spring or is it the original one that came on it. Honestly if the drivshaft wasnt so rough looking on mine all pitted up and you can see where the springwas rubbin on the shaft I would go ahead and clean it up and reuse it. But I am taking my time with it and want it too look , run & function like brand new. Even if a part is under the tractor or behind another part where you cant see it I still put just as much time in making it look as good as the rest.
Okay electrical gurus - I got one for you...
My 125 had a problem with the battery draining on it when not in use. I diagnosed the problem and could not find any shorted circuits anywhere. I cleaned all the terminals anyway, just to do some general housekeeping. Then I switched out the battery and put another in. Viola! She started right up. The problem is that the charge going to the battery when the tractor at is running (WOT) is very erratic. The digital multimeter is measuring battery voltage at anywhere from 12.5v to just under 19v but it is switching so fast I can't get a clean reading. SG resistance between field and armature is coming in at 8.9ohms so I think this is okay. I have not tested the SG by grounding the field, yet. But my gut tells me I have a bad regulator. I mean, the regulator is supposed to stabilize (REGULATE) the voltage going to the battery, correct? I'm theorizing that the VR isn't giving a good steady signal back to the battery and causing it to lose charge over time. Any input or tests I can run would be helpful. Thanks in advance,
Brent
My 125 had a problem with the battery draining on it when not in use. I diagnosed the problem and could not find any shorted circuits anywhere. I cleaned all the terminals anyway, just to do some general housekeeping. Then I switched out the battery and put another in. Viola! She started right up. The problem is that the charge going to the battery when the tractor at is running (WOT) is very erratic. The digital multimeter is measuring battery voltage at anywhere from 12.5v to just under 19v but it is switching so fast I can't get a clean reading. SG resistance between field and armature is coming in at 8.9ohms so I think this is okay. I have not tested the SG by grounding the field, yet. But my gut tells me I have a bad regulator. I mean, the regulator is supposed to stabilize (REGULATE) the voltage going to the battery, correct? I'm theorizing that the VR isn't giving a good steady signal back to the battery and causing it to lose charge over time. Any input or tests I can run would be helpful. Thanks in advance,
Brent
wsdrake
Well-known member
Brent, i'm having the same issue. I would let my 108 sit for a day, and it would start ok. If i let it set for 3-4 days, the battery would be dead. I tested the starter generator by grounding the F terminal, with the generator spinning. This is basically a load test. It passed, but i was still not getting the 13-14 volts to the battery i needed. Thus, i knew the problem was the regulator. You can do this test in about 20 minutes or so, and will tell you what the problem is. If you need anymore help, just ask.
mgwin
Well-known member
Jonathan,
I know you want your cub to look nice all over. I did the same thing with my 128. I primed and painted my driveshaft up so nice and pretty without any runs only to find out none of the parts would go on! There is no tolerance between the plates,throwout bearing,spring spacer and the driveshaft. If there were, the plates would wear the shaft into. I even tried leaving some primer on the shaft, but finally had to sand the shaft back down to shiny metal again. If I were to paint the driveshaft I would assemble the driveshaft assembly and then paint it. Also, do not paint the ends of the shaft. One end goes into the coupling and the other end goes into the motor drive coupling. I guess you could put both couplings on each end, paint it, and take the motor drive coupling back off to install it. I know it's a bummer, but if you use it there will be scratches too. Just remember, it is only a garden tractor. Scratches and minor imperfections are OK! Do your best and it will be one heck of a cub cadet to admire.
I know you want your cub to look nice all over. I did the same thing with my 128. I primed and painted my driveshaft up so nice and pretty without any runs only to find out none of the parts would go on! There is no tolerance between the plates,throwout bearing,spring spacer and the driveshaft. If there were, the plates would wear the shaft into. I even tried leaving some primer on the shaft, but finally had to sand the shaft back down to shiny metal again. If I were to paint the driveshaft I would assemble the driveshaft assembly and then paint it. Also, do not paint the ends of the shaft. One end goes into the coupling and the other end goes into the motor drive coupling. I guess you could put both couplings on each end, paint it, and take the motor drive coupling back off to install it. I know it's a bummer, but if you use it there will be scratches too. Just remember, it is only a garden tractor. Scratches and minor imperfections are OK! Do your best and it will be one heck of a cub cadet to admire.
Hey Gang, I'm putting my 44" deck back together after painting and some parts replacement.
Have ordered a decal set from CC Specialties and was wondering if someone could guide me as to the proper placement of 'em once they arrive.
Only had the one IH decal on it before I sandblasted it all.
Anyone have a lathe and can turn me down a front roller out of oak??
It's going on my newley aquired 1200.
Dave Schwandt
Have ordered a decal set from CC Specialties and was wondering if someone could guide me as to the proper placement of 'em once they arrive.
Only had the one IH decal on it before I sandblasted it all.
Anyone have a lathe and can turn me down a front roller out of oak??
It's going on my newley aquired 1200.
Dave Schwandt
Driveshaft paint = Slip Plate.
Marty...I know what your sayin , it is gonna get nicked & scratched and all that good stuff. As far as paintin the driveshaft, I couldnt see myself putting it together and tryin to paint it like that, no way. lol For some reason when I see people do that imo I think it doesnt look so good.I do plan on using a split locking collar on it so if I would paint it I would paint it from there back to where the coupler slides on. And to be honest I didnt even thik about tryin to slide the bearing and washers &etc over it. Glad you broght that up. As far as the ends go I would'nt leave them painted . Where the spring slides on I'd probly put a nice coat of vasaline on it or somthing. I know someone reading this is probably gonna laugh but I do use it alot on all kinds of stuff and it works great. One god thing about it is it doesnt stink, and its clear.
mgwin
Well-known member
David,
You talked me into it. I went out and pulled my 44 inch deck out from under the building and took some pics. This is an untouched (not redone) deck that came off of a 1972 model 128. There are three decals and the metal plate on the deck. Here they are:
The front roller is a plastic like roller and not oak. Some of my older decks have the oak. Hope this helps.
You talked me into it. I went out and pulled my 44 inch deck out from under the building and took some pics. This is an untouched (not redone) deck that came off of a 1972 model 128. There are three decals and the metal plate on the deck. Here they are:
The front roller is a plastic like roller and not oak. Some of my older decks have the oak. Hope this helps.
mgwin
Well-known member
Jonathan,
Yes, vaseline is good stuff, but if you put it on your cub and mow the yard, everything and it's momma (including dirt and dust) will attach itself to it! It's a PAIN to get off after that. I did that on something one time, but that was my last time!
I also noticed vaseline is bad about absorbing moisture too and caused things to rust mighty fast.
Yes, vaseline is good stuff, but if you put it on your cub and mow the yard, everything and it's momma (including dirt and dust) will attach itself to it! It's a PAIN to get off after that. I did that on something one time, but that was my last time!
A buddy of mine says he uses J*** D**** corn head grease. He says it works great. It apparently comes in a tube for use in a grease gun. I'm going to try it on my next rebuild although I may have my wife go in the store to pick it up for me!!!!
Billy Drake - Thanks for the input. I ran the load test and the SG seems fine. So I switched out the Voltage Regulator with another I had sitting around but am getting the same results. And by "the same", I mean exactly the same. So I'm at a bit of a loss.
Unless the wiring is just plain wrong, I don't know what else to check. Anybody else out there in cub land have any ideas or tests I could try? Thanks in advance.
wsdrake
Well-known member
Brent, there is one other thing i could suggest, but it is a bit of a longshot. A while ago on a Briggs and Stratton i had, it acted the same way. After testing the coil, and tracing all wires for shorts and such, i discovered that the points were staying closed, and drawing a small current, and effectively draining my battery. I would look there and see if the points are bad, and if not it will be a matter of going through and seeing what is drawing current. It can be tedious....actually, it can downright suck. This is all i can come up with. Good Luck.
That deck is very similar to mine except for the rear wheel brackets. Mine both come straight back and the front hangers are both outboard w/no
extra holes in the mount.
I'll ghet some pic's up tomorrow when I can get it right side up after the paint dries.
Thanks Marty!
extra holes in the mount.
I'll ghet some pic's up tomorrow when I can get it right side up after the paint dries.
Thanks Marty!
Carb issue solved - kinda
okay took the carter carb of my 147 and rebuild -taken the walbro off the 1650 and installed with the carter
started rite up and no more missing like the walbro i can even shake the tractor and no more starving for gas like before actually can drive around.
solved that problem - of course now the air cleaner from the walbro does nor fit the carter besides the holes do not line up to mount - the choke arm is facing the opposite way and will not clear the back of the air cleaner housing
what do i need to do -- get the correct air cleaner that will mount to the carb or a diffrent carb that will mount to the air cleaner - i do have the original air cleaner asy for the carter but would be incorrect for the air flow i think
this has turned into a bigger project that it should be
any help or where i can get the correct parts i need woul be helpfull
okay took the carter carb of my 147 and rebuild -taken the walbro off the 1650 and installed with the carter
started rite up and no more missing like the walbro i can even shake the tractor and no more starving for gas like before actually can drive around.
solved that problem - of course now the air cleaner from the walbro does nor fit the carter besides the holes do not line up to mount - the choke arm is facing the opposite way and will not clear the back of the air cleaner housing
what do i need to do -- get the correct air cleaner that will mount to the carb or a diffrent carb that will mount to the air cleaner - i do have the original air cleaner asy for the carter but would be incorrect for the air flow i think
this has turned into a bigger project that it should be
any help or where i can get the correct parts i need woul be helpfull
I just bought a 125 w/a 48" deck and it runs like all cub cadets and mows the same.One little problem is in reverse. Somtimes it backs up normally and other times it backs up at a snails pace.Full of trans oil.Was wondering if a fluid change and filter change might help.Dan
DAN - A hydro fluid & filter change is a good idea on ANY used CC, but I think your problem is more linkage related. Does the tractor speed up & slow down going up/down hills? Could be anything from the trunnion needing repaired/rebuilt to any of the other linkage connections.
