lpalma
Well-known member
Darn archive bug...
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Archive through July 22, 2013
- Thread starter lpalma
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
mfrade
Well-known member
I thought Kraig broke it!
Glad you're so easily amused! HAH!
At least we're being helpful... ( I hope!)
Glad you're so easily amused! HAH!
At least we're being helpful... ( I hope!)
lpalma
Well-known member
Frank, to be frank with you yes,until I find a nicer one.
hydroharry
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- Jul 22, 2007
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- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Do-Da: Hey, "fenda", I like that one. Now, how do you keep the fiberglass side from cracking all up? I've seen so many that are split. Do you add a nice thin metal plate (that you can't see unless the seat is lifted) across both those supports that bolt to the seat bottom??? We gotta preserve these things ya know. And for that matter - a better preserver is non-use of the seat all together - just roll it to the shows for viewing and that seat will last a life time or two.
lpalma
Well-known member
Ya know Harry,now that you mention it,I bought a 125,and when I lifted the seat it felt like a load was in it.The po cut out a 3/16 piece of steel in the shape of the bottom of the seat and mounted it to it due to being all cracked up.Painted it cub yellow also.I still have the piece of steel,not the tractor though....
fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
FWIW:
If you're new to this hobby/addiction - KEEP RECORDS. I wish I'd done a better job of it!
Hour meters are important. (ever hear about the guy that came home in a new suit and told his wife that the doctor had just told him that he was impotent and when you'se impotent you'se got to dress impotent)?
A couple CC's should be enough - one to use and another for a backup. However, if you till a garden you should have one with a hydraulic lift designated for the tiller. This may be the tractor that gets the least attention.
Don't get attached to them if you think you've got so many that you can't pay proper attention to them and don't ever expect to get your time and money out of them when it comes time to sell. (This is where records and hour meters come in).
This year I've dwelled on the 169 and am enjoying every hour and dollar that we're putting into it. I haven't "outgrown" the narrow frames, though, and at least one will always have a home here.
If you're new to this hobby/addiction - KEEP RECORDS. I wish I'd done a better job of it!
Hour meters are important. (ever hear about the guy that came home in a new suit and told his wife that the doctor had just told him that he was impotent and when you'se impotent you'se got to dress impotent)?
A couple CC's should be enough - one to use and another for a backup. However, if you till a garden you should have one with a hydraulic lift designated for the tiller. This may be the tractor that gets the least attention.
Don't get attached to them if you think you've got so many that you can't pay proper attention to them and don't ever expect to get your time and money out of them when it comes time to sell. (This is where records and hour meters come in).
This year I've dwelled on the 169 and am enjoying every hour and dollar that we're putting into it. I haven't "outgrown" the narrow frames, though, and at least one will always have a home here.
jchamberlin
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- Jul 19, 2010
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- 1,842
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- Farmville, North Carolina
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Frank: I hear you on "getting your money out." My tractors will have to last another twenty years or so before I "get my money's worth."
Frank, et el.
I don't know if I really want to know how much money I have sunk into the Nightmare. Last week, I threw another three figures at it. Necessary for the care of the machine, yes, but not necessarily a wise use of resources at this time.
Now, I hope I get those tires on properly, and the HyTran doesn't leak after a change. I just can't stay away from the thing.
I don't know if I really want to know how much money I have sunk into the Nightmare. Last week, I threw another three figures at it. Necessary for the care of the machine, yes, but not necessarily a wise use of resources at this time.
Now, I hope I get those tires on properly, and the HyTran doesn't leak after a change. I just can't stay away from the thing.
jchamberlin
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- 1,842
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- Farmville, North Carolina
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Steve Shaff: Why do you think your internal brake is squealing?
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Do-Da = I had seen it done before with a circular piece of something slightly thicker than sheet metal, but painted white like the seat. I think it was even glued to the seat to avoid any sorta separation. I sorta assume the po did it after having to replace the seat or cracked up fiberglass of the original seat - not sure since I didn't know the po. I'm sure it does help spread the weight out across the seat pan supports and avoid cracking the figerglass. I'm a little surprised it hasn't come up before - maybe Kraig knows of it since the 125 still used the same fiberglass pan.
Kraig - Oh Great One, Keeper of the Photos - any info on support your 125 seat pans?
Brian W - glad to hear you're still working over your machine. Just as well paint up the wheels before mounting the tires (it's really the best time), and make sure your wheel bearing are good and really greased up including a big grease dam on the inside of the wheel, and also get some shims ready so when you remount you have virtually no side to side play (hardly any side loading ont he bearings), but the wheel spins freely. I think Dennis was just talking about this in an earlier post along with alignment recommendations. I was also just thinking you must be getting close to being ready for your appearance package you mentioned awhile back. I'm sure you'll need plenty of those 3 figure payments to complete it. Got any updated pics of where you're at?
Steve and Jeremiah - I also saw Steve's squeeky brake comment, but I didn't know if he had internal wet or external disc so I didn't comment. I don't think I've heard of the internal brake having a squeak. With it's internal location in the bottome section of the rearend if there is any hydro fluid at all there really shouldn't be a squeak. I would guess it's more likely some type of clutch issue, or something along the length of the driveshaft is beginning to fail or already has. Steve - can you nail down the location of your squeak? I have to say it's not normal and should be addressed as soon as possible, but to do that we need to know more details and closer pinpoint of the location.
Kraig - Oh Great One, Keeper of the Photos - any info on support your 125 seat pans?
Brian W - glad to hear you're still working over your machine. Just as well paint up the wheels before mounting the tires (it's really the best time), and make sure your wheel bearing are good and really greased up including a big grease dam on the inside of the wheel, and also get some shims ready so when you remount you have virtually no side to side play (hardly any side loading ont he bearings), but the wheel spins freely. I think Dennis was just talking about this in an earlier post along with alignment recommendations. I was also just thinking you must be getting close to being ready for your appearance package you mentioned awhile back. I'm sure you'll need plenty of those 3 figure payments to complete it. Got any updated pics of where you're at?
Steve and Jeremiah - I also saw Steve's squeeky brake comment, but I didn't know if he had internal wet or external disc so I didn't comment. I don't think I've heard of the internal brake having a squeak. With it's internal location in the bottome section of the rearend if there is any hydro fluid at all there really shouldn't be a squeak. I would guess it's more likely some type of clutch issue, or something along the length of the driveshaft is beginning to fail or already has. Steve - can you nail down the location of your squeak? I have to say it's not normal and should be addressed as soon as possible, but to do that we need to know more details and closer pinpoint of the location.
The only cracked fiberglass seat I have seen is one that was crushed when a second parts tractor was piled on top of it. That one was in a load of parts tractors I got from John Buszkiewicz that Ryan Mull hauled up from Indiana for me. I think the cracks occur from abuse not use. I have three fiberglass seats and none are cracked. I no longer have the one that was on my parents 125 it was thrown out only because the cover had ripped and the foam would get wet. The fiberglass was perfect when it was thrown out in the late 1980s. Sure wish I still had it.
I have a seat cover on the main use #2 125. It's a universal fit cover for a full size tractor that I got at Fleet Farm about 20 years ago. The fiberglass is in great condition:
I have one that I had reupholstered for use on the #1 125 whenever I get it refurbished. The fiberglass in in great condition.
The third seat I have is in need of reupholstering but the fiberglass is in very good condition. Here's a photo of the third seat it's the one on the right. The fiberglass and blue trim were in good condition the vinyl was in poor condition. The cracked seat on the left is one that was crushed under the other parts tractor.
I have a seat cover on the main use #2 125. It's a universal fit cover for a full size tractor that I got at Fleet Farm about 20 years ago. The fiberglass is in great condition:
I have one that I had reupholstered for use on the #1 125 whenever I get it refurbished. The fiberglass in in great condition.
The third seat I have is in need of reupholstering but the fiberglass is in very good condition. Here's a photo of the third seat it's the one on the right. The fiberglass and blue trim were in good condition the vinyl was in poor condition. The cracked seat on the left is one that was crushed under the other parts tractor.
STEVE S. - If your #100 is all original, meaning not a conglomeration of several other vintage tractors to make one, it should have the wet internal disk brake. Yes, they can "squeal" under some circumstances. First question is do You have Hy-Tran or some other type of oil in the rearend? Squealing is reduced with Hy-Tran, but can still happen. First thing I'd do is adjust your clutch & brake per the instructions in the 70/100 operator's manual. Most squealing happens when the brake is starting to engage while the clutch is still engaged when pushing the pedal down. Unless you hear metal-on-metal rubbing or squealing when you apply the brakes there's no real urgency to repair the brakes as long as you still have good brakes to stop you on any hill you work on.
The CC wet internal brake is one of the most durable brakes on ANY garden tractor ever built. I'm sure my old #70 still has the 48 yr old factory original brake pucks in it, and just to show-off, when I backed it off the tailgate of my truck 3 weeks ago when I delivered it to SON, I stopped in the middle of the ramps which were at a 40 degree angle. No squeaks, groans, just smooth stopping, and the clutch with my best pair of OEM clutch plates, my best slighty used friction disk, all new springs & T/O bearing works perfectly, driveshaft stops in 1-2 seconds when shifting from neutral into any gear, engagement point is gradual and wide, no slippage or grabbing. Same faultless operation from the 48 yr old brake pads.
If adjusting the brakes and maybe an oil change to fresh Hy-Tran doesn't stop the squealing, new friction pucks should. They're a whopping $12 each (2 required), plus the reduction gear housing gasket is $5.50, and the o-ring to seal the diecast brake piston is only $2.75. Rearend/final drive removal is recommended unless you have the ability to safely tip the tractor's nose up vertically and support it safely, which also allows the old oil to drain more completely. I was able to get about 4-1/2 quarts of Hy-Tran in my #70 by doing that. Engine & battery removal is probably wise if you tip the tractor up too.
Remove the front cover on the reduction housing after removing the brake adjusting bolt & lock nut & driving the pivot shaft for the brake lever out. A ball bearing and a short push rod are behind the brake lever. Pry the brake disk forward & back to allow it to clear the splined end of the lower transmission shaft. The brake piston & frt pad will slide out. Most times the rear pad has to be broken up with a screwdriver or punch and removed in pieces, clean everything well, and install the new parts & reassemble, fill with Hy-Tran, and your good for another 50 yrs.
Ohh, and if you have the engine, driveshaft & clutch out of your CC 100, replace the teaser spring in the clutch too. ($5.00) I rebuilt the clutch in my 72 3-4 yrs ago to replace the T/O bearing & install a stock pressure spring and reused a 2-3 yr old teaser spring and I now have to replace the broken teaser spring. I knew better than that!
The wet internal brake is just another reason why the NF GD CC's are the BEST CC's!
FRANK C. - I know many people swap & trade tractors ALL the time. But IMO, by doing that you miss the best reason for owning a CC. Three weeks ago I passed on Dad's '65 vintage #70 to it's THIRD Generation owner. I've had my #72 for 32-1/2 yrs, and my 982 has been around here for 14 yrs come Labor Day. They're all working tractors, and just knowing that they all are ready, willing, and able to complete ANY job I start with them always brings a smile to my face when I start them up. If I have a problem while using them, it's not because of some hack-job repair a prior owner did. I don't mind spending money to fix them up and repair them at all. I get my value from them by the L-O-N-G trouble-free use I get from them. In the 35 yrs I've had yard work to do, not including the years I lived at home, I've only had FOUR CC's, the 70, 72, 129, & 982. I wonder how many off-topic tractors or Big Box store tractors I'd have worn out in that time. Most of those years I've mowed over 2 acres a week.
The CC wet internal brake is one of the most durable brakes on ANY garden tractor ever built. I'm sure my old #70 still has the 48 yr old factory original brake pucks in it, and just to show-off, when I backed it off the tailgate of my truck 3 weeks ago when I delivered it to SON, I stopped in the middle of the ramps which were at a 40 degree angle. No squeaks, groans, just smooth stopping, and the clutch with my best pair of OEM clutch plates, my best slighty used friction disk, all new springs & T/O bearing works perfectly, driveshaft stops in 1-2 seconds when shifting from neutral into any gear, engagement point is gradual and wide, no slippage or grabbing. Same faultless operation from the 48 yr old brake pads.
If adjusting the brakes and maybe an oil change to fresh Hy-Tran doesn't stop the squealing, new friction pucks should. They're a whopping $12 each (2 required), plus the reduction gear housing gasket is $5.50, and the o-ring to seal the diecast brake piston is only $2.75. Rearend/final drive removal is recommended unless you have the ability to safely tip the tractor's nose up vertically and support it safely, which also allows the old oil to drain more completely. I was able to get about 4-1/2 quarts of Hy-Tran in my #70 by doing that. Engine & battery removal is probably wise if you tip the tractor up too.
Remove the front cover on the reduction housing after removing the brake adjusting bolt & lock nut & driving the pivot shaft for the brake lever out. A ball bearing and a short push rod are behind the brake lever. Pry the brake disk forward & back to allow it to clear the splined end of the lower transmission shaft. The brake piston & frt pad will slide out. Most times the rear pad has to be broken up with a screwdriver or punch and removed in pieces, clean everything well, and install the new parts & reassemble, fill with Hy-Tran, and your good for another 50 yrs.
Ohh, and if you have the engine, driveshaft & clutch out of your CC 100, replace the teaser spring in the clutch too. ($5.00) I rebuilt the clutch in my 72 3-4 yrs ago to replace the T/O bearing & install a stock pressure spring and reused a 2-3 yr old teaser spring and I now have to replace the broken teaser spring. I knew better than that!
The wet internal brake is just another reason why the NF GD CC's are the BEST CC's!
FRANK C. - I know many people swap & trade tractors ALL the time. But IMO, by doing that you miss the best reason for owning a CC. Three weeks ago I passed on Dad's '65 vintage #70 to it's THIRD Generation owner. I've had my #72 for 32-1/2 yrs, and my 982 has been around here for 14 yrs come Labor Day. They're all working tractors, and just knowing that they all are ready, willing, and able to complete ANY job I start with them always brings a smile to my face when I start them up. If I have a problem while using them, it's not because of some hack-job repair a prior owner did. I don't mind spending money to fix them up and repair them at all. I get my value from them by the L-O-N-G trouble-free use I get from them. In the 35 yrs I've had yard work to do, not including the years I lived at home, I've only had FOUR CC's, the 70, 72, 129, & 982. I wonder how many off-topic tractors or Big Box store tractors I'd have worn out in that time. Most of those years I've mowed over 2 acres a week.
My 125 won't start... no spark. It's been 8 months since the last time I ran it. It's been stored in a wet barn. I'm quite sure it's the points BUT someone please tell me something else before I have to pull motor and take off the Flywheel.
Tom
Tom
Tom, the points are not behind the flywheel. They are mounted low on the front left side below the governor arm and behind a cover that's held on by two screws, see photo below. I suppose the points could be corroded. Check for loose wires or perhaps a mouse has chewed through one and it's now broken or shorting.
Kraig, Thank you soooooooooooooo much for the info.
Another thing, today I'm going to look at another Kohler 12 hp for my other 125. The guy has it on a stand so I can here it run, what should I be looking for? Good price $150.00 with front clutch still on it.
Tom
Another thing, today I'm going to look at another Kohler 12 hp for my other 125. The guy has it on a stand so I can here it run, what should I be looking for? Good price $150.00 with front clutch still on it.
Tom
Tom, if it's running condition with a PTO $150 would be a good price IMO. Does that price include the starter/generator or muffler as well? If so the $150 is a really good price. Watch for oily smoke coming from the breather when it's running. (The breather is located behind the carburetor and towards the PTO end. In the photo I posted below it's the black panel with the hose leading from it. Note that this is a modified breather, the stock one will have a simple louver in the cover in place of the brass elbow and tube.) A little bit at start up would be OK but if it's puffing out large amounts it's likely in need of a rebuild. Inspect around the head for signs of leaking gas/oil any evidence of leaking would indicate a blown or about to blow head gasket.
TOM - If your 125 CC has the stock K301 Kohler engine there's NOTHING under the flywheel. The points are inside the little steel cover about 1 inch wide by 2 inches tall under the exh outlet right on the frt lower corner of the left side of the engine. There should be a single wire running into the lower front corner of the cover which is held on with two machine screws, one on top and one below the cover. Remove the two screws & remove the cover and the points are right there! The bottom screw could be a challange to loosen & remove unless a prior owner slotted the lower screw hole. Sllotting the bottom hole, the one where the slot for the wire is, will make reinstalling the cover MUCH easier. Also make sure your cover had the "D" shaped grommet over the wire that fits in the slot in the corner of the cover.
As you roll the engine over by hand with the ignition OFF, make sure the points move, at it's widest the gap should be around .020", use a feeler gauge to confirm that measurement, and make sure the feeler gauge is clean & dry, NO oil allowed! Also check the contact points to make sure they're not pitted or burned. If they look O-K, and have the roughly .020" gap, spray some Brake-Clean or electrical contact cleaner on a piece of thin carbboard, back of a legal pad, note book, match book cover, etc, and wipe the wetted cardboard between the contact points to make sure they're clean and hopefully remove any oxidation. Sometimes just snapping the points open & closed a time or two will allow them to make electrical contact so the engine will start & run. Make sure the wire running from the coil to the points is in good shape, no breaks in the wire, bare spots on the insualtion, etc.
If you're careful you can try starting your 125 before putting the points cover back on, but don't run the engine long without the cover, a minute at most. The crankcase breather is just above the points and the oily vapor coming out of the breather is VERY hard on the point contacts.
Also check the condenser which is the little metal cylinder about 1/2" in diameter X 1-1/2 inches long somewhere close to your ignition coil with a short wire lead attached under one of the small threaded terminals on the ignition coil. The condenser has to be grounded thru metal to the engine, no paint, dust/dirt, grease, etc. And the wire lead has to be in good shape. A "no start" condition may be due to a bad or improperly installed condenser, bad coil, or bad ignition switch, or a rusty connection in the ignition circuit of your 125, or a rusty ground connection that can be just about anywhere.
It's best to keep your 125 in as dry of conditions as possible. Water, whether rain, snow, condensation, or whatever doesn't do ANYTHING in or on a CC any good.
As you roll the engine over by hand with the ignition OFF, make sure the points move, at it's widest the gap should be around .020", use a feeler gauge to confirm that measurement, and make sure the feeler gauge is clean & dry, NO oil allowed! Also check the contact points to make sure they're not pitted or burned. If they look O-K, and have the roughly .020" gap, spray some Brake-Clean or electrical contact cleaner on a piece of thin carbboard, back of a legal pad, note book, match book cover, etc, and wipe the wetted cardboard between the contact points to make sure they're clean and hopefully remove any oxidation. Sometimes just snapping the points open & closed a time or two will allow them to make electrical contact so the engine will start & run. Make sure the wire running from the coil to the points is in good shape, no breaks in the wire, bare spots on the insualtion, etc.
If you're careful you can try starting your 125 before putting the points cover back on, but don't run the engine long without the cover, a minute at most. The crankcase breather is just above the points and the oily vapor coming out of the breather is VERY hard on the point contacts.
Also check the condenser which is the little metal cylinder about 1/2" in diameter X 1-1/2 inches long somewhere close to your ignition coil with a short wire lead attached under one of the small threaded terminals on the ignition coil. The condenser has to be grounded thru metal to the engine, no paint, dust/dirt, grease, etc. And the wire lead has to be in good shape. A "no start" condition may be due to a bad or improperly installed condenser, bad coil, or bad ignition switch, or a rusty connection in the ignition circuit of your 125, or a rusty ground connection that can be just about anywhere.
It's best to keep your 125 in as dry of conditions as possible. Water, whether rain, snow, condensation, or whatever doesn't do ANYTHING in or on a CC any good.
