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Archive through July 22, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Nice seat and the rare white engine, too!
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Paul W...IH # 4 Trailer,Dump type trailer, 10 cubic feet,1,000 # capacity,16x6.50-8 tires. Made 1976-1982. Go to top page *Cub Cadets Parts Lookup* click into model #1450, than go to Attachments--at bottom of listing ...is #4 Trailer parts lookup.
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Matt G. You're making me want a loader more and more.

Charlie P. That outfit is coming along great!!!

Dennis F. Somewhere (it was moved before our remodeling/addition) is a Hydro 656 torque tube. It is supposed to be part of the museum one day when we finally have the resources to assemble a true space for such a thing. If I recall Sunstrand was instrmental in developing the IH tractor hydros as they were developing the combine hydros. On page 10 of the 15U Series Service Manual under the Heat Exchanger heading it states that the hydrostatic transmission should NOT exceed 200* as a continuous operating temperature. When a hydro does get too warm and the transmission starts to slipping it is wise to shutdown as soon as possible and let the system cool down. Occassional overheating shouldn't cause excessive damage.

I know of a John Deere 318 that the PO used 90 weight oil instead of the reccomended oil. The tractor is used only about 20-25 hours a year and that 15U slips even when lukewarm. Too heavy of oil caused premature wear.

A little tip as far as my thinking goes.... When someone says that their 10 year old (or newer in some cases) hydrostatic propelled lawn or garden tractor won't go up a slight incline without slipping once the oil gets warm there is a fairly good chance that the implement relief spring is going bad. Sure you can replace that only most of the rest of the transmission isn't going to last too much longer. Those cheap box store tractors may have a decent engine only the hydros aren't built to last.

Now a little bit of when someone says to me that my 15U transmission in my Cub Cadet , JD, etc. tractor's hydro is slipping and I've heard that it will be BIG $$$ to fix. The dealer told me so. The dealer will always state worst case scenario and one must remember that a lot of them are getting $50-75.00/hour to work on your tractor. The labor alone will soon eat up ANY tractor's value. I say this.... download the manual, study it and then buy the gauges and begin troubleshooting yourself. Worst case scenario is this... Yes, you may need another hydro only you can buy a good used one pretty reasonable and install it in your newly acquired tractor and then be good to go.

One final tip.... Those implement and charge relief springs do wear out the same as the check valves. On the charge relief and implement relief area one will also want to check and see if the poppet isn't getting worn out. These are simple and inexpensive repairs.

Enough of my ramblings.... this is just some of my thoughts.

Frank C. That durn bull bucked me off way early.
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Mike M. Nice little Cub Cadet. Definitely a keeper.
 
Well, Wilbur, I didn't really lie about not bringing another one home - I committed to this one last fall:
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I think (read "know") I'm going to have to keep her. The lady I bought it from's husband was just getting into garden tractor restoration/refurbishing when he had a fatal heart attack - early 50's, I believe. To originally get in touch with her a couple years ago I actually searched out his obituary to see who I could call. Then last summer I found her daughter and husband at their camp at a lake 20 miles north of here, and asked them to ask her if she'd sell it for $150. She called me back and said OK, she was ready to part with it. This afternoon I took a trip north to deliver a basic front end loader and a Sears LT10 to a guy who's leagally blind but has gone to school to work on small engines and mowers. On the way home we stopped and the 125's folks were at camp. I gave the lady $200 for it - told her that when I'd offered $150 that I'd forgotten it had headlights. Darn conscience!
Everyone must have had a busy day - slow on the forum!
I hooked a charger to her and she turns over until she comes up against compression. Take the spark plug out and rolls over great. Full of new oil, too. Compression release problem?
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Marlin, that horse looks like such a more comfortable ride than the bull!!
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Oh, P.S. The old girl has 18.5 X 8.5 - 8 tires on front. Never seen them, before.
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Marlin, I had to put a new spring, valve and some new shims in my 1650 when I bought it. I could only get 400# pressure on the lift circuit. After a new spring, I shimmed it to 650#. It worked good for a couple years and then it started to slip. The lift pressure was still at 600# when warm. I knew it was the hydro slipping since the engine would not lose rpms with the lever all the way forward, the tires were not spinning, but I was still losing forward speed. Like I have stated, I bought a used one off a 149 and now she goes good and strong.
 
Frank C: I suggest that you go to the nearest auto supply store and get yourself a new 22-24" starter cable and install the new cable from the battery neg(-) terminal to the S/G mounting bracket and throw away the old cable. The ground portion of the electrical circuit is critical for sufficient cranking power, so I suspect that you may then find that the 125 will crank right over and maybe even start, if you have also cleaned up the looooong Carb needle...

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
 
Wes H. You did the correct things by trying the less expensive items first. It sounds like you were getting too much droop or oil getting by between the slippers and the swashplate or the valveplate and the bottom of the kit or both. In that case you would be getting into some expensive repairs. That hydro must have been through some really hard pulling at one time or another or the wrong oil was used. Do you still have the old pump? There are ways to tell what happened only it is hard to post pictures and explain. If you took the pump apart and checked the valveplate for an uneven surface area it would be somewhat hard to post a picture good enough to show the wear. An experienced person with the proper equipment could possibly lap the valveplate surface only too much and the problems magnify. Then one has to view the aluminum and iron castings for wear. Summing things up.... You did the right things by trying the springs. See you good people are pretty dang well versed in troubleshooting the 15Us afterall.
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Frank, could those front tires be off a International cub lowboy?
 
Frank C

Nice score on the Cub,I have been away Camping (wife is on Vacation for a month).We are just here to check on the house and get some clean clothes.Was at an out door Country music festival,And now to the beach for a few days.No Cub s for me for awhile
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. Have fun guys. later Don T
 

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