Archive through July 21, 2014

[jbecker]

Hey everyone, I'm currently working on restoring a Cub Cadet 102 that I picked up in high school. I joined the military and have been moving around a lot so it spent the last few years sitting in the shop back home. Now I'm currently stationed in Arkansas and was able to get the project down here to continue working on it.

Ultimately I'm at a standstill currently as the engine needs some machining work done on it, the original piston connecting rod broke and scored the cylinder so I was looking to get it rebored and some other work done on it to get it back up and running. I am having difficulty locating someone who does machining work on small gas engines here in the local area (within 2 hours). I have pretty limited experience in this area, the only person I found who could possibly do it was asking for specific measurements that I wasn't sure how to get, and neither was he as he mainly worked on car engines apparently.

Long story short, is there anyone on here from down in this area that might possibly have a lead on someone/a shop I could get ahold of that could do this work?

Thanks for the help and have a great week.

Joe

 

[jsosbe]

I ended up with this snowplow when I bought a package deal "100". Pretty sure it wont mount on the 100. Can anyone tell me what models it will fit?

 

[mmasheris]

Blade will fit but you need an A frame and subframe for a 100

 

[kmcconaughey]

Joe B., WELCOME!

Jason, I believe that is for an MTD built Cadet lawn tractor. Possibly a model 424 Blade.

 

[jsosbe]

Thanks guys! Ok so I'm a little dumb when it comes to this stuff still..when you say A frame and sub frame, what would you be talking about? Pictures?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jason,

 

[jsosbe]

NOW it makes sense!! Thanks guys!! Now I need to decide if I wanna keep it or sell it. I already have a qa42 snowblower. Thanks guys!!

 

[jsosbe]

Im assuming I'm going to be hard pressed to find 'just' the a frame and mount?

 

[sblunier]

Jason S.

That subframe is for a LT 182,282,382.......and other similar models.

Double check blade width, might be 36" instead of the standard 42".....

 

[jsosbe]

Ok thank you Steve.

 

[hydroharry]

Christian K - lot of activity on here so hope you're still checking in. If your tractor seems to run fine for about 1/2 hour then I can't see any problem with the carb. If your tractor is still at the shop I'd definitely pick it up and get away from there as fast as you can.

Now, on your plug, I would definitely re-gap it to at least .025 or even .030. I believe IH called out .025 and Kohler .035 (if you study all the Kohler literature they jump all around but .025 is correct for the AQS engine in our applications).

You also mentioned using Marvel MO - are you putting it in the gas and if so how much??? To much is like trying to burn oil in a gasoline engine.

Now, about the weak spark, are you getting that by looking at the spark on the plug, or looking at the points? The spark at the points is notorious for looking weak when it really isn't. My suspicion of your problem goes directly to valves as you first thought. If you dis-assembled the carb and cleaned it I'd think you have the skills to check the gap on your valves lifters and adjust them as necessary. You will need a feeler gauge, a breather gasket kit and the Service Manual. I recommend the IH CC Engine Service Manual so you don't get all confused using a Kohler Manual. For the Quiet Line series IH CC published a Chassis Service Manual that covers everything except the engine, and they published an Engine Service Manual (I believe both manuals are for the 1x8/9 and the Quiet Line so you may have to look in the Manuals section under both Models/series). I don't know if Charlie has the Engine Manual in the Manuals thread on here, but hope so, since it only covers the engines used in the IH CC units (not all the applications shown in the Kohler manual).

I'm gonna bet you'll find your valve clearances out of adjustment. If you do check and adjust them and still have a problem, my next step would be to remove the head and have a look at the valves and carbon build up. You might want to do this anyway if you have never de-carboned the head and piston. It's supposed to be done every 500 hours of operation - and carbon will KILL your KOHLER if you don't.

Good luck and keep us posted of your progress.

Jason S - besides the A frame you'll need the trip springs as well and maybe the lower bracket since I can't see a pin on it where the springs would connect. You can probably find most or all the parts in used condition - but they most likely will total more than the cost of a complete snow blade for a Narrow Frame CC like your Model 100. (I've seen the sub-frames sell for $50-75 each, the A-frame by itself for $50-75, and a pair of springs for $50-60).

For what it's worth - I'm not sure your QA42 snow thrower will bolt up to your 100 either. The 100 was prior to the "Quick Attach" (QA series) latch and I believe only 2 of the holes in the mounting bracket for the QA will line up, and the QA will have 2 pins pointing inward that will conflict with the 100. Unless the QA has been modified already you'll have to do some modifications of your own - but I believe it can be done.

Joe Becker - thanks for your service to our country. We don't get many active duty personnel on this Forum but I'm hopefully someone within the 2 or 3 states around Arkansas can help direct you. I see you're not far from Little Rock which ain't terrible far from some places in MO and TN. We have some members in both those states and maybe some even in AR. Hopefully they'll see your request and help out here.

You definitely need a small engine machine shop that is familiar with and done several Kohler K-series engines. It sounds to me like you're gonna need the block bored and the crankshaft ground AND hopefully both are within the spec limits to have this done. In my view the crank has the most critical tolerance, so please don't just try to get by.

I wonder if Jerry Bliler is still checking in on here. He was very knowledgeable on the internals of these engines. I don't think he was a machinist but worked many of them over and probably knows a machine ship someplace in MO that specializes in these Kohler K-series blocks.

 

[jbaker]

Yep Harry must of broke it again

 

[prtombaugh]

I picked up a model 72 Cub Cadet last week and it had a Stedi Seat (rubber seat made by the Ohio Rubber Company) on it. I thought only the model 102 came with a rubber seat??? This rubber seat is fastened to a heavy metal pan-type seat which is then fastened to the tractor frame with a single bolt like the Originals and 100's and 70's - 73's. The blue metal trim band on the seat is the same color as the tractor decals. What do I have here?

 

[jbaker]

I think its a early aftermarket seat

 

[thoffman]

Paul,
I'll bet someone pulled a switcheraroo.

 

[mgwin]

Road trip!!!
Details later.

Paul,
I was thinking the same thing, that the 102 was the only one with that type of seat. Don't know where I read/heard that at the moment.
I have one of those seats, and it's going on my dad's 122.

 

[jchamberlin]

Marty, have you checked with your Dad? I too have one of those seats (found installed on a 122) and it is hard as a rock. It would not be my first choice for a seat.
However, there was no spring under mine, I'll post pictures tomorrow.

 

[hydroharry]

Paul - I agree with Jeff (boy I like doing that). I don't recall the 122 rubber seat having the drain holes thru it (or what ever you want to call those slots in the rubber). I think it's a really good 'Merican knock-off. We should be able to see when Jeremiah posts some pics.

Jeff - here's one for you -

 

[mhomrighausen]

Paul T. I have a yellow seat bottom like that. It came on a parts 102. If I can find it then I'll take a picture of it.

 

[jchamberlin]

Paul, Jeff, Marty, Harry, and Marlin (and anyone else interested). These are pictures taken of the seat I found installed on a 122 recently. In fact, it was one of the reasons I purchased the unit, since the fiberglass and foam seat on my "good" 122 was ruined. However, after sitting on it for only a few minutes, realizing there was no spring to "assist" with the shock absorption, I decided it was worth refurbishing the fiberglass unit.

I have no idea whether or not this seat was installed on the tractor originally. It was bolted directly to the sheet metal that covers the transmission & differential --the flat portion between the fenders. The bolts holding it down were stamped IH and were secured by nuts welded to the underside of the sheet metal, in other words, the mounting fit the factory bolt pattern.

The fiberglass seat on the first 122 I bought had two pieces of 1-1/2" angle attached to it and the angle was pinned to an inverted "hat" formed from sheet metal. The seat tipped forward on the pin. The top (or bottom) of the hat bolted to the flat portion between the fenders (I probably should have taken a picture of that while I was at it). Anyway, the point is that the two seats mount very differently to the same tractor.

Edit: The serial number for the 122 with the fiberglass seat is 157125 (End of May 1966); I'm still working to uncover the S/N of the "hard seat" 122, I should learn it by the end of the day Wednesday.