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Archive through July 20, 2017

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Ed- I dont have a deck for my 1450 yet so there's no weight at all on the shaft.i can take hold of the arm that sticks out of the frame where you'd attach the lift bar for a plow or snowthrower etc and rotate it forwards and backwards and it moves freely.the problem is we're the"float"linkage goes the hydraulic piston and the the rock shaft,that aforementioned linkage moves with the piston freely also but doesn't apply any lifting force to the rock shaft.in the am I'll see if I can email you a video off the lift moving the way I'm trying to explain
 
Check the roll pin where the lift arm attaches to the shaft.
 
Steve:
The disked looked good at RPRU, glad to see it works good also.

Does anyone know where to get a main harness for a 782? I have checked CC specialties, and didn't see one on there.
 
Jesse,

Part numbers for a 782 wire harness are 725-3016 or IH 144659 C3. That number looks to be NLA from Cub Cadet based on the parts lookup but I'm sure there is an aftermarket vendor making them. You might call or email Charlie directly or check with RF Houtz.
 
Marty, thanks for the pics of the V61's back on July 20th, they don't look as square as the other pics I've seen, I may go with those. I was also impressed by how well your shop floor looks so clean!
 
I am working on my cub cadet 123. I need to install a new wear button to keep my PTO from turning when not in use. I just bought a new fiber wear button but the hole on the engagement bar seems too small. Do you just force the button into the hole?

I came across the following on the web:

"The hole that the fiber button fits in is an odd ball size. I always grind a lead on the fiber button and I use the turn-buckle to force it in with the engagement leaver. I run the engine when it's almost seated and then set it the final time after you cut the grass. I have heard of the button's being glued in."
 
John P.
The buttons can be a real PITA sometimes.
Just make sure that ALL of the old button is gone from the hole and press it in, it will go.
I have heard of guys using a C Clamp, but you need to make sure your pushing it in perfectly straight or it will break.
BTW, those guys on Farmallcub.com are a little goofy sometimes.
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George,

Clean???
Don't you see the dust on the ribs of those V61's?
It is my basement, which doubles as a shop/garage.
I told the wife upstairs can be hers, but downstairs is mine!
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John P - back in the day when I use to restore a few CCs every year I'd always buy 2 of the fiber buttons cause the first one almost always broke. Then the bronze buttons came along, and they obviously don't break, and they last forever if the rest of the PTO is correct and it's adjusted correctly.

Since you already have the fiber button then it's best to follow what Charlie said - hold it firmly square and push it straight in. Honestly, I always had trouble doing that but I've seen others do it several times. I finally gave up doing it that way and found that by just getting it set (started) in the hole, and then leaning the lever forward so the fiber button was touching the steel button, and then pressing slowly on the lever and gradually increasing the pressure I could usually get it to seat without breaking off. I think this is sorta what the other guys were telling you.

What ever you do - don't go putting a steel bolt thru it so you rub steel against steel. You'll just end up ruing the steel button and have to overhaul the PTO.

Marty - while I was looking at your V61s I noticed the pin in your front axle is sticking out about 1 inch. What's up with that? Is it a temp pin or something?
 

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