William S.
Sounds like you have a broken or bent spring inside.
Sounds like you have a broken or bent spring inside.
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Archive through July 13, 2014
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I must have hit something on the road and bent the tie rod on my 1250 Nightmare. I have a replacement tie rod, and I bought new tie rod ends (IH calls them ball joints) from my local Cub Cadet dealer.
What I would like to know is the measurement, in inches, of the tie rod, end to end with the tie rod ends in place, so that I have a place to start to get the toe-in set correctly. I didn't find that specification in the service manual, although it tells the toe-in specification. Is there a good way to start this project?
What I would like to know is the measurement, in inches, of the tie rod, end to end with the tie rod ends in place, so that I have a place to start to get the toe-in set correctly. I didn't find that specification in the service manual, although it tells the toe-in specification. Is there a good way to start this project?
nbextermueller
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- displayname
- Nic Bextermueller
Brian, sorry I don't have (or like) the QL's... (I know that's going to stir some pots.)
But I'm just curious, the tie rod is not that easy to bend. How exactly do you hit something large enough and hard enough to bend the tie rod bad enough that it needs replaced, AND have no recollection of ever hitting anything??
But I'm just curious, the tie rod is not that easy to bend. How exactly do you hit something large enough and hard enough to bend the tie rod bad enough that it needs replaced, AND have no recollection of ever hitting anything??
J
jclazar
Guest
The International Quiet Line Cub Cadets are a great garden tractor,....my favorite! Being a devoted IH fan, there is not an IH Cub Cadet I don't like
Have a good IH Cub Cadet day folks!
Have a good IH Cub Cadet day folks!
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Brian,
Install it, measure the toe, cut the difference in half and adjust accordingly......you are making too big a deal of it, just go for it and it will be done in 15 min.
Tyler,
Dad recently had knee surgery, so we wern't taking any chances on slipping and falling in the mud.......glad you had fun.....
Install it, measure the toe, cut the difference in half and adjust accordingly......you are making too big a deal of it, just go for it and it will be done in 15 min.
Tyler,
Dad recently had knee surgery, so we wern't taking any chances on slipping and falling in the mud.......glad you had fun.....
Would like to know what parts are needed to mount the 38" mower deck that I use on my 72 (built Jan 1969) on my 149 (built early part of 72). The 72 was having issue this weekend and I want to be able to use the 149 which did not have a mule drive, hanger frame and mower deck when I bought it last year. TIA
James, here are some pages from the manual for a 149 that cover the 38" deck. The third page has a good picture of the deck hanger.
EDIT 1: Note that the deck itself will differ slightly from the one for your 72 as some changes were made to it my <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> over the years. Mainly different style runners, yours should have round runners rather then the half round runners in the photos and I believe this 38" deck has an extension on the discharge chute. In any case, the deck hanger is what you will need to make it work on your 149 and perhaps a different length drive belt.
EDIT 2: Here is the part number of the drive belt that you will need: IH-490489-R2 Which is 1/2" X 80"
EDIT 1: Note that the deck itself will differ slightly from the one for your 72 as some changes were made to it my <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> over the years. Mainly different style runners, yours should have round runners rather then the half round runners in the photos and I believe this 38" deck has an extension on the discharge chute. In any case, the deck hanger is what you will need to make it work on your 149 and perhaps a different length drive belt.
EDIT 2: Here is the part number of the drive belt that you will need: IH-490489-R2 Which is 1/2" X 80"
Terry, looks like 3/4" long.
Kraig - thanks much! Curious where you found the manual? I've looked at various parts diagrams but the ones I've seen just show the main components w/o bolts, etc. also, are the same type manuals available for the k241 and k301s?
Terry, it's from my archives of scanned Cub Cadet documents. Not sure where I borrowed the original from, might have been from Craig C. I do have a similar document for the K301.
mfrade
Well-known member
Copper Washers would be for oil control. The copper would deform and create a good seal.
Have owned a few Cubs in the distant past. Currently have a non running 127. I'm wanting to put together or find a fully restored tractor. This is not a WTB as I need advice before I get serious about the search. I have owned a 1650 in the past and it wanted to vibrate everything loose every time I used it. I was told that was common with the 16 hp tractors and that I would be happier with a 14hp. Now I've read that the 14's had similar issues and that the 12's were the largest I should go to avoid this. I'm looking for "the truth" from the experts. Second question is, since I'm not sure I'll find what I'm looking for, is there a list on here that would put me in touch with reputable experts that do complete restorations, or at least all of the mechanical restorations? If so, then I might buy a solid tractor and deliver it to the restorer and go from there. I am looking for a specific model for sentimental reasons, but want to get advice first and then decide what I should be searching for. Thanks for any and all help.
Kraig/Craig - how might I go about getting my little paws on a copy? Those would very useful for sure - avoid having to tear into another engine to figure out what goes where and even doing that I'm not always sure if it's correct or something a PO substituted. Thanks
fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Walking a fine line, here, Bill.
The following is an opinion - and we know what they're worth.
It sounds like you've kind of ruled out the higher horsepowers, which is not a bad thing because I really think that a properly running 10hp will run quieter, smoother, and do about anything the higher HP's will do.
Sounds like you're wanting to build a show tractor?
I came to the conclusion years ago that sentiment is expensive. You neglected to tell us what your sentimental Cub Cadet is.
My downfall was a 105 about 15 years ago, which was also my introduction into sticking hydro relief valves and "Hey, these have to be split just like REAL TRACTORS." That particular 105 got to be running, moving, mowing, sold to a friend that wanted a woods tractor, stripped down, engine changed (went from Smokey to Ollie (Oliver) -- the sentiment doesn't stop. A month ago he told me that since his situation has taken a drastic turn that if Ollie changes hands he'll come right back here.
My opinion - 10HP. Hydrostatic? 105 And this isn't a for sale post 'cause I ain't got one!
The following is an opinion - and we know what they're worth.
It sounds like you've kind of ruled out the higher horsepowers, which is not a bad thing because I really think that a properly running 10hp will run quieter, smoother, and do about anything the higher HP's will do.
Sounds like you're wanting to build a show tractor?
I came to the conclusion years ago that sentiment is expensive. You neglected to tell us what your sentimental Cub Cadet is.
My downfall was a 105 about 15 years ago, which was also my introduction into sticking hydro relief valves and "Hey, these have to be split just like REAL TRACTORS." That particular 105 got to be running, moving, mowing, sold to a friend that wanted a woods tractor, stripped down, engine changed (went from Smokey to Ollie (Oliver) -- the sentiment doesn't stop. A month ago he told me that since his situation has taken a drastic turn that if Ollie changes hands he'll come right back here.
My opinion - 10HP. Hydrostatic? 105 And this isn't a for sale post 'cause I ain't got one!
