Archive through July 13, 2008

[kfreeman]

Art,

www.vassarfarmequip.com

They make Cat 0,I,II equipment. But they need to hire a middle school kid for a few days this summer to get their website more complete. Most of the equipment descriptions are missing photos.

I did not see anything that looked like your "thing". And their parts pages are "under construction".

 

[thoffman]

Art,
Kinda' hard to hook the plow to tractor with the rear PTO. I had the traqctor at a "Mini PD" a while ago, did prety well with the 12 under the hood. My dedicated plow tractor is the International 234 now that I have the 23 Stomes on it. Did some small stump pulling today, it's realy got some bite now!!

 

[bjohnson]

I've seen some Cub Cadets with an upright muffler. It looks like it's made up from threaded steel heating pipes. I'd suppose the pullers do this. I'd like to do this and install a muffler from a Farmall Cub. Can somebody tell me how to do this, and include a parts list? I looked through the FAQs and couldn't find anything. Thanks.

 

[thoffman]

Brian "J",
If you look at the pix from my last post, you should be able to see the elbow on the 3/4" (I believe) pipe to go upright. You won't find any info in the IH manual for upright exhaust. I used VW exhaust tips on mine to "muffle" it just a bit and get some back pressue. Sound good too.

 

[bjohnson]

Yeah Todd. That's exactly what I'm talking about. Does anybody know the pipe size and thread? It's got to fit the block threads.

 

[bjohnson]

Yeah Tom. That's exactly what I'm talking about. Does anybody know the pipe size and thread? It's got to fit the block threads.

 

[thoffman]

NPT 3/4" if I'm not mistaken.

 

[theaton]

Tom and Brian, I have 1 inch pipe for my cub stack. Brian, the 1 inch pipe threads directly into my stocker 12hp Kohler.
If I am not mistaken.

 

[rbedell]

Myron:

BOTH the Series I and Series II motors had a pressurized oil system. See (enhanced) attached image from the Kohler Service Manual.

The difference was the "oil passages". Oil was routed through the crank journals.

What you are referencing...

Simply indicates, that the Series I Short Block is no longer available (NLA) and to use a series II Motor (Spec #24302) or Series II Short Block (KH-52-522-98).

If you look further into TC-193, Sectrion F, page 42, you will notice a "oil pump". See attached image.

NO WHERE on this image does it indicate, that this pump was strictly used on Kohler KT17's with a spec number higher than 24300.

 

[jmburge]

Does anyone know where I can look to find out what implements my cub original was originaly bought with? Also Where do I go to find out if my motor is original to my cub? Mine was a puller before I got it and had no atatchments, and the motor sat next to it. The motor is a cub original motor, but I'm not sure if this is the one that originaly came with it. I would like to restore it with all the original atatchments that it came with.

 

[theaton]

Jason B, unless you have the original bill of sale for your cub you are out of luck. The IH built cubs like your original were sold as garden tractors(meaning you bought the tractor nothing else). The implements available were all options. Click on the Faq's at the top of this page, then go to Charlies Faq's page. #52 should give you an idea of what was available.
As far as the correct engine in your cub... I don't believe the cub serial #'s and engine #'s ran together. Your original should have a 7hp engine.

 

[mgray]

A friend of mine is rebuilding a k301 12hp for me. anyone have any suggestions on a good rebuild kit to buy and where to order it from online or should I just check my local dealer? thanks for the help....

 

[dfrisk]

JASON B. - Like Todd says, These garden tractors were made & purchased to work, and work hard. Chances are Your tractor's engine was replaced sometime in it's 45 yr life span. Dad bought a brand new Original CC in about '62 or '63 and traded for a model 70 in '65, THAT tractor had the engine rebuilt twice and totally replaced at least twice and it's worn out again.

ART U. - Red primer on Cub Cadets was not used anywhere on steel or sheetmetal. It was actually a sealer only used on castings to seal sand from getting into the oil of the rearend and keep them from rusting since I suppose IH LVL stored castings outside like FARMALL.

ART A. - Dad always used to say "An Electrode Holder is a DANGEROUS WEAPON in some people's hands!" I think You found one! Nice find on the box blade btw.

Crappy welds aside it looks in great shape.

 

[jbliler]

Jason, then you can get into the fun of what was addad later. My 100 was bought 3 years old and the creeper was added along with the hyd lift so that he could use the tiller and snowblower that he wanted. before that it was just a mower. All the changes were done at the dealer. the neat part was the way it was all laid out on the bill of sale. the other nice line was the 1941 Chevy pickup that he traded in on it. they gave him $300 for the truck, wish we had it back now!

 

[dsterley]

hope this is in the right place i finnaly found a wide frame 1450 with snow blower and field plow and mower deck going to pick it up tonight soon as i can get out of work looks to be a pretty nice tractor one owner never slept out side the guy said he went out to start it and it wont start and he doest want to deal with it he said it just clicks he said 200 will take every thing i said ill be there after 5 its a good day in cub land

 

[jbliler]

Ok looking for some help with hood alignment. On the original the hood is hitting the steering wheel when opening. Frame IS straight, hood hinge holes seem to be in right place. This is a new problen as this one had never had the steering shaft grommet when arond here. Sure hate to scratch up paint now but somthing has to be done. I need about 3/8ths inch?????

 

[digger]

Darren S.
BUY IT!

 

[dsterley]

Charlie
allready did that i just need to pick the little fella up and smile all the way home

 

[rrschmitt]

Peter R,

You have checked and cleaned your ground wires so the next problem is that your battery is probably going bad assuming your starter/generator has been charging properly. Put it on a trickle charger overnight and then take it to a garage or Autoparts store and have it put on a battery tester to put it under a load. I've found that when the solenoid starts clicking its either a bad ground or weak battery from inadequate charging or battery going bad.

 

[rrschmitt]

Jerry B,

The front grill casting needs to be adjusted forward to eliminate your interference problem with the steering wheel. Loosen the bolts that attach it and slide it forward as there should be a small amount of adjustment available. Also check to make sure that the grill casting attachment points on the frame are not bent/deformed which can happen if someone ran the grill casting into something at sometime.