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Archive through July 10, 2009
- Thread starter dtanner
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Anyone that wants their tractor repaired and painted nearby I just got hired back into my old profession. I am sure I could get it done cheap
. I will be running a collision center for a family about 20 minutes from where I live. Going to get throwed in a blazing fire from what I hear it is a mess down there. I'm sure it is still better than not working the last 15 months. I also hope they don't mind yellow overspray all over the paint booth when they walk in Monday mornings!
Dustin S.
I would add to what Matt said to also include a couple of skim coats of body filler. If the rust is completely removed, it will leave pits in its place, which will definitely show through the new paint (I just did this with the hood on my 102 project). This will also help fill in any dings that have accumulated. Sand it until it is as smooth as a baby's skin, then sand it some more. Apply a second coat of filler if necessary and repeat sanding. Once you have it smooth, prime it and you'll see more imperfections. Sand and reprime, and you'll see fewer imperfections. After sanding the second primer coat, apply a skim coat of spot putty on all remaining imperfections and let dry. Sand with 320, then 500 grit, remove the sanding dust with a tack cloth and paint. If you did your sanding well, the final coat should look like glass!
Porter,
Congratulations on your new gig. If any of my advice is seriously off base warn me so I can don my fire retardant underwear.
I would add to what Matt said to also include a couple of skim coats of body filler. If the rust is completely removed, it will leave pits in its place, which will definitely show through the new paint (I just did this with the hood on my 102 project). This will also help fill in any dings that have accumulated. Sand it until it is as smooth as a baby's skin, then sand it some more. Apply a second coat of filler if necessary and repeat sanding. Once you have it smooth, prime it and you'll see more imperfections. Sand and reprime, and you'll see fewer imperfections. After sanding the second primer coat, apply a skim coat of spot putty on all remaining imperfections and let dry. Sand with 320, then 500 grit, remove the sanding dust with a tack cloth and paint. If you did your sanding well, the final coat should look like glass!
Porter,
Congratulations on your new gig. If any of my advice is seriously off base warn me so I can don my fire retardant underwear.
I have checked the service manual and also parts look up. I would like to see how the hood latch assembly mounts on a 129. I have the left and right "rods" but it's not obvious to me as to how they even work. Thanks in advance.
Started putting the K together, without a manual. I have a pdf file on it and was reading the reassembly pages and noticed that I didnt line up the timing dots. I know this is a dumb question and I could probably answer it myself but I have been up since 3:45am and am not thinking too well at this point, but is there something on the crankshaft that lines up with that dot? I decided to tackle it tomorrow after a pot of coffee and a good nights rest. For now I am installing grease zerks on the front axle spindle housings, seems to be right up my alley for doing something that does not require a whole lot of thought!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Scott S.-
There should be a raised mark or something like that in the casting on the crank. If there was nothing, how would you time it?
There should be a raised mark or something like that in the casting on the crank. If there was nothing, how would you time it?
help with a stalling problem.
128, K301A.
i have a very annoying stalling problem i have been chasing. during the chase i learned everything that could cause a stall, was.
i replaced the coil, spark plug wire, spark plug, points, condenser, air filter, carb, linkage from carb to gov( new carb requires it),fuel line.
added non cadet inline fuel filter.
adjusted carb and gov linkage.
engine was removed dissembled and inspected. valves reseated, all gaskets replaced.
mouse nest removed from blower housing.
clutch replaced, all of it, shaft, plates, springs.
oil changed.
RPM 1200 -3200
creeper needs work, slips out of hi.
it still stalls. it is a slow stall, like an overload stall. when you cut grass too tall.
it cuts grass 4' tall with out a problem.
i believe it is a governor problem, but no matter how i adjust it, it either gets a lot worse, or a little better. meaning, i can get it to run longer before a stall and i can run all day at half throttle.
i am wondering if i am missing something.
can someone watch the videos of this tractor that i posted on youtube and tell me if they see where i went wrong?
is it possible it is internal? should i disassemble the governor gears?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nb4mplTTS1Q
this shows how i have the linkage set up. the throttle clamp screw is not cadet, that one broke and is on order.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPR7gjT4q6o
start. go to full throttle. runs rough.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tatIf4GA9RE
full throttle. lower to half throttle, back to full throttle
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wnk2mYeqc1c
full throttle. engage, disengage mower.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2OJO3khuh0
mowing 1' high grass. no problems
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulWWdolnTfw
stall. it sounds like i slowly lower the throttle, but that is not me. this is how it dies, slowly.
like it is overloaded, but if you disengage mower, it still stalls.
thanks for any help anyone can give me.
128, K301A.
i have a very annoying stalling problem i have been chasing. during the chase i learned everything that could cause a stall, was.
i replaced the coil, spark plug wire, spark plug, points, condenser, air filter, carb, linkage from carb to gov( new carb requires it),fuel line.
added non cadet inline fuel filter.
adjusted carb and gov linkage.
engine was removed dissembled and inspected. valves reseated, all gaskets replaced.
mouse nest removed from blower housing.
clutch replaced, all of it, shaft, plates, springs.
oil changed.
RPM 1200 -3200
creeper needs work, slips out of hi.
it still stalls. it is a slow stall, like an overload stall. when you cut grass too tall.
it cuts grass 4' tall with out a problem.
i believe it is a governor problem, but no matter how i adjust it, it either gets a lot worse, or a little better. meaning, i can get it to run longer before a stall and i can run all day at half throttle.
i am wondering if i am missing something.
can someone watch the videos of this tractor that i posted on youtube and tell me if they see where i went wrong?
is it possible it is internal? should i disassemble the governor gears?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nb4mplTTS1Q
this shows how i have the linkage set up. the throttle clamp screw is not cadet, that one broke and is on order.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPR7gjT4q6o
start. go to full throttle. runs rough.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tatIf4GA9RE
full throttle. lower to half throttle, back to full throttle
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wnk2mYeqc1c
full throttle. engage, disengage mower.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2OJO3khuh0
mowing 1' high grass. no problems
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulWWdolnTfw
stall. it sounds like i slowly lower the throttle, but that is not me. this is how it dies, slowly.
like it is overloaded, but if you disengage mower, it still stalls.
thanks for any help anyone can give me.
Frank,
This sounds/looks like a GOV linkage issue, assuming the carb is adjusted correctly.
The linkage from the gov lever to the carb is new, are you sure it is the right length???. Watching the videos the gov is trying to adjust for the load but does not seem to be very affective. The proper springs in the linkage have a MAJOR effect on the gov operaion. Are the springs "correct"??
Do you own a service manual? They are very helpful, copies are easy to get.
Jim
This sounds/looks like a GOV linkage issue, assuming the carb is adjusted correctly.
The linkage from the gov lever to the carb is new, are you sure it is the right length???. Watching the videos the gov is trying to adjust for the load but does not seem to be very affective. The proper springs in the linkage have a MAJOR effect on the gov operaion. Are the springs "correct"??
Do you own a service manual? They are very helpful, copies are easy to get.
Jim
Frank,
OBSERVATION......
The fuel filter might be restricting the flow of fuel. The filter you have is generally for pressurized fuel systems, it may have too much restriction for a gravity flow system.
Remove inline filter.
Jim
OBSERVATION......
The fuel filter might be restricting the flow of fuel. The filter you have is generally for pressurized fuel systems, it may have too much restriction for a gravity flow system.
Remove inline filter.
Jim
Jim Patchett (Jpatchett)
it was doing this before i added the fuel filter, but i can try it again without the filter. just to be sure.
linkage from carb to gov came with the carb, and instructions not to use old linkage with new carb.
i didnt think of replacing the spring, DUH!. thats why i post here, lots of people smarter then I. i just bought the tractor used, i dont think it was ever serviced. spring could be incorrect, or stretched.
yes, i have the tractor and engine service manual. i have adjusted carb and gov to their specs.
i will try replacing spring and removing fuel filter, but i think it is something else. i have been cutting 4' wet high grass. it balls up so tight it pours out of the mower chute like putty, this is about the heaviest load you can put on it, and it does not hesitate. this is when i would expect to see a gov or fuel restriction problem, at full load.
the tractor acts like it is under too much load, when it is not.
it was doing this before i added the fuel filter, but i can try it again without the filter. just to be sure.
linkage from carb to gov came with the carb, and instructions not to use old linkage with new carb.
i didnt think of replacing the spring, DUH!. thats why i post here, lots of people smarter then I. i just bought the tractor used, i dont think it was ever serviced. spring could be incorrect, or stretched.
yes, i have the tractor and engine service manual. i have adjusted carb and gov to their specs.
i will try replacing spring and removing fuel filter, but i think it is something else. i have been cutting 4' wet high grass. it balls up so tight it pours out of the mower chute like putty, this is about the heaviest load you can put on it, and it does not hesitate. this is when i would expect to see a gov or fuel restriction problem, at full load.
the tractor acts like it is under too much load, when it is not.
Frank It should not hunt like that. My 161 did that and it ended up being the throttle cable needed to be pulled down and re-clamped at the wot position. Make sure the cable and throttle lever does not move when you re-clamp it. Keep close eye on it when you start it to see how that portion is functioning and no slack or movement from the cable.
Bruce: Don't worry, body repair is an art form so there is more than one way to skin the cat just remember that.
Kendell I was hired on the spot when I told them the last time I worked in a shop I screamed all day, put out fire after fire, poured coffee onto someone that ticked me off, yelled at customers that were unrealistic (hey! you smashed your car not me right?) and that I would try and change that kind of behavior for the better. They smiled and said that behavior was exactly what they have been seeking.
Bruce: Don't worry, body repair is an art form so there is more than one way to skin the cat just remember that.
Kendell I was hired on the spot when I told them the last time I worked in a shop I screamed all day, put out fire after fire, poured coffee onto someone that ticked me off, yelled at customers that were unrealistic (hey! you smashed your car not me right?) and that I would try and change that kind of behavior for the better. They smiled and said that behavior was exactly what they have been seeking.
Frank; I think the governor spring should move down to first hole in governor linkage. Leave the throttle end where it is. you may have a gas flow problem also. i think the reason for stalling is running out of gas. If gas is flowing good from the tank, check for trash in the needle valve in the carb.
Just my thoughts. Luther
Just my thoughts. Luther
Yes there is a little raised bump on the crankshaft. New day to try it again! Although I'm not too thrilled to have to take the bearing plate off in fear of ruining the gaskets, but I gotta do what I gotta do!
mfrade
Well-known member
Peter O., Good for you! Maybe now you'll be to busy to be snoopin' around "my" backyard checkin' out the cubbies! 
We'll have to talk about doin' the 34 coupe.
We'll have to talk about doin' the 34 coupe.
J
jott
Guest
Greg Edwards, you've got a new email.
Hello again guys of the cub world, I am just now getting around to installing the PTO I rebuilt on my 124. The PTO bearing has a locking ring inside that acts as a stop on the crank. The book says to place the bearing flush with the crank but this locking ring stops the bearing 1/8" from flush. Is this a matter of any concern? I know the PTO is probably one of the easiest components to work on and install but like I said in an ealier post, it's been about twenty years since I've had this pleasure. Also, is the locking collar the only thing keeping the PTO assembly on the crank? I'm assuming it is because of the way the allen screws lock on the backside edge of the bearing. I've looked through PDFs and FAQs and other than a diagrahm there's not much written on function. I guess I'm suppose to have a little more common sense. Any and all responses will be appreciated.
