• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through July 09, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Ned:
Yup, usually with a horse as an option...
193707.jpg
 
Had to replace the 8 yr old battery in the CC 72 a couple weeks ago. I use a small, think it's Group 26R battery in the NF CC's, regular post style battery. The old battery was 620 or so CCA, the new one only 525, I was kinda' P-O'd but that all Blain's Farm & Fleet had. Marlin's correct, Interstate is a good battery.

GERRY - Seems like WF batteries last lots longer, much less heat & vibration back under the seat. Just makes it impossible to install a small automotive battery. Think the battery in the 982 is a 350 CCA F&F about 3-4 years old now. Didn't even disconnect or trickle-charge it and it started right up this spring.
 
In the continuing saga of my quest to mount a QA42A to a 102, I spoke with Madson's in St. Nazianz this morning. I was told YES, a QA42A will mount to a 102/122 frame. However, while explaining my situation I lost him. So in the next few weeks I may take a run north and see if I can solve this puzzle and be ready when the snow comes.
 
William Rehm,
I have your attachment problem all figured out.

Here's my 125 complete with "frankenstein" bolts.
193715.jpg


Here's my 122 ( with no provision to properly locate the QA ears)
193716.jpg


All you need is this simple adapter which will bolt to the back two holes in your 122.

193717.jpg


Make the outside plate out of 1/4" thick material, a 3/8" thick center plate ( to replicate the spacing of the frankenstein bolts ) and a .100 thick inside plate to duplicate the washer thickness of the frankenstein bolt.

The red holes are 17/32" ( .531 ) and the blue pin is 5/8" diameter ( frankenstein bolt ). Center distance is 2" between the 17/32" holes and an additional 2" to the 5/8" pin.

This should work perfectly. In fact, I'll be making a set for myself for my own 122.

Jeff
 
193722.jpg

This is how I solved that problem of keeping the tractor moving while I used the sprayer wand and steered. There is just enough tension on the shock cord the keep the lever in full ahead. I can then regulate the speed with the "brake" pedal.
 
Jeff D., that's the exact same solution that I described Friday morning in my 9:01 am post and then at 9:51am I posted a crumby sketch and further descriptions.
proud.gif
I didn't provide dimensions like you did though.
thumbsup.gif


Terry R., I dug out my Brinly spring assist and took some photos I was just about to copy them onto my PC but I discovered that I left the USB cable for my camera at work.
bash.gif
 
Jeff D. great idea for the rear of the adapter, but remember he..does not..have QA latches on front of his tractor. Just bore extra hole somewhere and add spacer washers on the front ??
 
Matt you might get that email. I was going to use a hardware store o-ring but then I thought, It wasn't leaking before! I will sleep over it.

Marty, I just happened to find it at a swap meet. It was painted JD green and had a 4 inch crack where it's shiny now. I know the guy thought he was getting the best of the deal! What about this metal epoxy? What does it do?

I have 2, 42" decks 1 good for my 123 and 1 pretty good (same swap meet). I'd hate to cut it up but will parts of the tin match up with the 38"? I haven't had time to compare.
 
BTW the mower I posted earlier is a McCormick #9, so at least we kept it in the IH family...

Kraig:
I'm also just setting up a new (to me )'puter. I keep finding stuff I haven't loaded yet - the old one is powered down, hopefully I can get it running a few more times so I can run an inventory on the software..
 
Allen, there is one front mounting hole in the QA42A sub frame. One bolt on each side, in the front hole along with the fabricated brackets, one each side, bolted on to replicate the rear mounting studs that I described on Friday and that Jeff described below (complete with dimensions and a better sketch) would be all that is required. No modifications necessary to either the tractor or implement.
 
Gerry
You can pull that with you Cub.

Ned
Yes there is. I have seen several while researching my Haban. Several differant makers and powered several different ways. I even found a website dedicated to the sickle mower. We thought we were bad?
 
Gerry, I still have to find some of my personal install CDs to get my work PC back to "normal". I own one of the CAD programs that I use. I found the box with the manual but no CD.
angry.gif
1a_scratchhead.gif


This afternoon I swapped out the PTO with the broken triangle spring with a good used PTO I had setting around. What a difference a non slipping PTO makes in tall thick grass. If my #2 125, which is presently powered by a K301 Killer Kohler was a gear drive, I probably could have mowed the field in 3rd gear...
clown.gif
While I had it apart I installed a small hose clamp on the PTO engagement lever rockshaft to keep the brass button centered on the PTO button. I took photos but alas, no USB cable to copy the files off with.
pcwhack.gif
 
Kraig,
No problem - I can wait until you can download the pictures.
 
No 682 work today...went to a large consignment auction with Cubs. I didn't buy any tractors. Prices were all over.

'O' with blade, deck, messed up hood, wrong K181 engine, smoked, horrible paint job - $600
1440 - $650
109, running, but ugly - $100
1450, looked nice, but smoked and needed a PTO clutch and most of a deck - $125
107 w/ deck non-running - $90
1200 needing starter - $165

Needless to say, I'll probably not own any more Originals other than the one I have...
 
Matt

Some old timers (no offense to you old timers) would rather sell for less if they know your going to bring her back to life. Keep your eyes open!

Some people need the money. Some people want the money but need to know that it will be taken care of. Thats how I got my Bolens and I've kept my promise!
 
Bob-

I'm not sure what it is, but Originals here always bring insane amounts of money. My dad watched about half an O go for $350 once...that's the cheapest one I've seen other than the one I have, and I'm not willing to publicly admit how little I paid for it.

I had to pick my jaw up off the ground after I watched those two clowns bid that 'O' up there...I'm guessing neither one realized it smoked or that the engine was not CC-spec and really kludged in there.
 
That reminds me, the picture at the top of this page, Who restored that "O"?

It's a beauty!!
 
Bob P. I also will be mounting my Haban on my 125 next weekend. I have the pipe that goes to the rear but not the attaching piece. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks Mel
 
Bob P.,
Find some 1/8" sheet metal and cut the size you need to cover the hole or thin spots. Weld the pieces on the under side so they won't be visible and fill the hole on top with the epoxy. Here is a pic of what I used.
193740.jpg


Just missed getting a 100 off of C.List for $275.00
swear.gif
The guy was talking to the buyer on another phone when I called.

Matt,
I bought this one for $800 back in April, but I had to drive 500 miles to get it.

193741.jpg
 

Latest posts

Back
Top