Keeper of the photos... Sorry I can't post a pic, haven't got a digital cam yet. It's hard to say if the tab is OE or not the tractor was repainted years ago. I think it may have something to do with pulling since it is a retired puller I bought at an auction. I plan to do a full restoration when I get aonther one to use for my yard work.
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Archive through July 09, 2008
- Thread starter bmcmeen
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Kraig - you should be OK with SS there. I also Engineered in the food industry (Nestle)(visited the USA on that score). SS does have several curly problems. It can be real bad news in hot water uses, can get intergranular corrosion from chlorides present.
In the CC situation just being discussed I guess the potential is
a) SS to SS is VERY poor friction coefficient, we used to ensure Nut & Bolt/Stud came from different bar stock so they would not grab & scuff (should not expect that problem with Hardware store stuff).
b) SS is low Carbon, starves for carbon & if near Carbon steels will suck it out, particularly if moving. We used to put 'Gun Metal' sleeves on SS shafts where carbon glands were used, otherwise the SS shaft would suck out the Carbon then go soft & wear like heck. This might be what is happenning when threaded into the Carbon Steel footrest bar also. Dennis's methods would help.
d) If you really want to be fancy with corrosion resistance with all the salt you guys use or used to use on icy roads, then check your 'SS' with a magnet, magnetic is generally (not always) low quality & poor corrosion resistance.
Now I'm an old grey head, so please all you modern Space Engineers go easy on me.
In the CC situation just being discussed I guess the potential is
a) SS to SS is VERY poor friction coefficient, we used to ensure Nut & Bolt/Stud came from different bar stock so they would not grab & scuff (should not expect that problem with Hardware store stuff).
b) SS is low Carbon, starves for carbon & if near Carbon steels will suck it out, particularly if moving. We used to put 'Gun Metal' sleeves on SS shafts where carbon glands were used, otherwise the SS shaft would suck out the Carbon then go soft & wear like heck. This might be what is happenning when threaded into the Carbon Steel footrest bar also. Dennis's methods would help.
d) If you really want to be fancy with corrosion resistance with all the salt you guys use or used to use on icy roads, then check your 'SS' with a magnet, magnetic is generally (not always) low quality & poor corrosion resistance.
Now I'm an old grey head, so please all you modern Space Engineers go easy on me.
Greg, that's one good looking 100! Looks like you have every available option except the hydraulic lift.
Graeme, thanks for the info on SS. They still use a lot of salt on the roads here in the winter. The #1 125 shouldn't see much use if any on the road in the winter so it sounds like I should be OK.
Graeme, thanks for the info on SS. They still use a lot of salt on the roads here in the winter. The #1 125 shouldn't see much use if any on the road in the winter so it sounds like I should be OK.
James S,
Here is another useful link on for a hydro trunnion repair http://cubfaq.com/trunionrepair.html. You can try welding as Kraig suggested but you will need to wrap a wet rag around the base where the shaft enters the hydro unit to minimize the amount of heat it can conduct which could ruin your trunnion seal. Been there and done that even with a wet rag and I still ended up replacing the seal but I used an acetylene torch to build a trunnion slot back up. I have thought that using an arc welder or Mig welder you can control the heat better and maybe save the seal.
Ideally, you should remove the trunnion arm for welding but it would be best to have a service manual and you will need all 4 seals, charge pump O-ring and a hydro case gasket and cork gasket. New trunnion arms are available from Cub Cadet but are pricey ($200). You could check with Charlie, he might be able to get you a better deal on one. A used hydro pump might be an option as well.
Here is another useful link on for a hydro trunnion repair http://cubfaq.com/trunionrepair.html. You can try welding as Kraig suggested but you will need to wrap a wet rag around the base where the shaft enters the hydro unit to minimize the amount of heat it can conduct which could ruin your trunnion seal. Been there and done that even with a wet rag and I still ended up replacing the seal but I used an acetylene torch to build a trunnion slot back up. I have thought that using an arc welder or Mig welder you can control the heat better and maybe save the seal.
Ideally, you should remove the trunnion arm for welding but it would be best to have a service manual and you will need all 4 seals, charge pump O-ring and a hydro case gasket and cork gasket. New trunnion arms are available from Cub Cadet but are pricey ($200). You could check with Charlie, he might be able to get you a better deal on one. A used hydro pump might be an option as well.
Guy's thanks for the info on the Fuel Bowl w/shutoff, I ordered one for my 122, it will be nice to not have the $4 a gallon gas leak!
Graeme, thanks for the great information on Stainless Steel.
Here’s possibly some more useless information, directly from Cliff Klaven…
There are 2 basic type of Stainless Steel used in the Hardware/Fastener Industry. 316 SS and 304 SS, if a person had a 304(most common) bolt and they were tightening a 304 nut onto it, the 2 MAY gall together. Meaning they MAY weld themselves together, no way of removing the nut or finishing the job of tightening this nut. This would be most common in a manufacturing application where an assembler on a line could install this several times or maybe do this for a couple hours, then all of a sudden one will gall. It has to do with heat buildup between the surfaces, it can happen whether the nut is spun slow or fast. Fast would heat up faster due to speed, but turning slow would trap the little heat build up in the threads between the nut and bolt.
Stainless does not gall to steel, it galls to the same style stainless. It has to do with the low carbon of Stainless Steel as Graeme said.
In an application where Stainless is needed, a 316 nut should be used with a 304 bolt or screw. Or 304 Bolt or screw is used with a Standard steel nut. Check out all the road signs in the state of Minnesota, they should be using 304 Stainless Bolts and Standard Steel Nylock Nuts. 304 SS is the lower grade Stainless, less expensive.
Also I would not use lock washers on Cub Cadets, I would use the Standard Steel Nylock Nuts. Lock washers will vibrate loose on a high vibration application such as a Cub with a Kohler.
18-8 SS is the same as garden variety 304 Stainless, 316 SS is stronger. Although I do believe 18-8 or 304 is as strong as Grade 5 hardware.
Also the standard hardware that is bought at a hardware store, Menards or Fleet Farm barely(or maybe not) meets the Grade 2 Standard. With today’s steel prices I would expect the quality of these fasteners at Menard’s and Fleet Farm to decrease, yet I am sure the price will only increase…
There, whew, that was a mouthful… Let me know if it makes sense – maybe I learned something from selling fasteners.
Graeme, thanks for the great information on Stainless Steel.
Here’s possibly some more useless information, directly from Cliff Klaven…
There are 2 basic type of Stainless Steel used in the Hardware/Fastener Industry. 316 SS and 304 SS, if a person had a 304(most common) bolt and they were tightening a 304 nut onto it, the 2 MAY gall together. Meaning they MAY weld themselves together, no way of removing the nut or finishing the job of tightening this nut. This would be most common in a manufacturing application where an assembler on a line could install this several times or maybe do this for a couple hours, then all of a sudden one will gall. It has to do with heat buildup between the surfaces, it can happen whether the nut is spun slow or fast. Fast would heat up faster due to speed, but turning slow would trap the little heat build up in the threads between the nut and bolt.
Stainless does not gall to steel, it galls to the same style stainless. It has to do with the low carbon of Stainless Steel as Graeme said.
In an application where Stainless is needed, a 316 nut should be used with a 304 bolt or screw. Or 304 Bolt or screw is used with a Standard steel nut. Check out all the road signs in the state of Minnesota, they should be using 304 Stainless Bolts and Standard Steel Nylock Nuts. 304 SS is the lower grade Stainless, less expensive.
Also I would not use lock washers on Cub Cadets, I would use the Standard Steel Nylock Nuts. Lock washers will vibrate loose on a high vibration application such as a Cub with a Kohler.
18-8 SS is the same as garden variety 304 Stainless, 316 SS is stronger. Although I do believe 18-8 or 304 is as strong as Grade 5 hardware.
Also the standard hardware that is bought at a hardware store, Menards or Fleet Farm barely(or maybe not) meets the Grade 2 Standard. With today’s steel prices I would expect the quality of these fasteners at Menard’s and Fleet Farm to decrease, yet I am sure the price will only increase…
There, whew, that was a mouthful… Let me know if it makes sense – maybe I learned something from selling fasteners.
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- Home of the Plow Special
...could somebody pass the peanuts please?
Vincent-
That's a very good explanation of SST fasteners. I work for a company that uses almost exclusively SST fasteners. All nuts, bolts, capscrews recieve either loctite or ECK (which I posted the link to) to prevent chances of galling or corrosion. Also, like you said, stay away from hardware store stainless, if you have to use stainless fasteners, go somewhere like Fastenall who will steer you to the correct grade SST fastener.
That's a very good explanation of SST fasteners. I work for a company that uses almost exclusively SST fasteners. All nuts, bolts, capscrews recieve either loctite or ECK (which I posted the link to) to prevent chances of galling or corrosion. Also, like you said, stay away from hardware store stainless, if you have to use stainless fasteners, go somewhere like Fastenall who will steer you to the correct grade SST fastener.
avanwettering
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- Andy Van Wettering
Greg, When are you ready to do my 100??? HEHE
Nice Job
Nice Job
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Fuel Bowls
As Bryan said, 2 1/8" o-rings can be installed to replace the original fiber valve packing (remove old packing first).
My 100 has had that fix in operation for 8 years without a drip or drop.
As Bryan said, 2 1/8" o-rings can be installed to replace the original fiber valve packing (remove old packing first).
My 100 has had that fix in operation for 8 years without a drip or drop.
Hmmmm, I think I got the "factory paint" technique down.
Question for you all using Valspar paint (especially you, Kraig
)
I see Tractor Supply has an IH Yellow, and a Cub Cadet Yellow...Which would be correct for the early IH built CCs?
They also have IH White and Cub Cadet Beige...I assume the white would be closest, and the beige is for the newer CC built units?
I see Tractor Supply has an IH Yellow, and a Cub Cadet Yellow...Which would be correct for the early IH built CCs?
They also have IH White and Cub Cadet Beige...I assume the white would be closest, and the beige is for the newer CC built units?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Art U.-
I'm pretty sure the Valspar CC yellow is meant for the 2000 series and the like. I have used the IH white, but I think it's too white. I can take a pic of the deck I used it on if you like. I haven't used the others.
I'm pretty sure the Valspar CC yellow is meant for the 2000 series and the like. I have used the IH white, but I think it's too white. I can take a pic of the deck I used it on if you like. I haven't used the others.
Art U., I only use the Valspar primer and IH white, for the yellow I've been using actual Cub Cadet yellow.
