Archive through July 09, 2004

[rmull]

Keith- If you come down you can have some stuff...but I have sold a lot...but not enough yet.

We can get some Mon-gor-ian Beef & Saki takeout.

Kevin- Send them with Keith..

Shawn- Congrats on the trencher, cool machine. As of right now I don't have a traditional cast. There is not much point, I have several plates and a box of screws holding my ankle together since 2 bones literally shattered into about a thousand pieces. They garthered them up, tried to get them into the shape of a bone and then put plates and screws around it to let it try and grow back together.

I have a ACE compress wrapped around a semi-soft padding to keep it stable, but if I get a wrap, it will probably be White, and I will put yellow and red/black graphics on it.

Ken- Gonna have to go hyrdo unless I can find a hand clutch! But at this point they said no wheelchair, they don't want me going anywhere, just to keep my leg up..and I asked Amanda last night if I could order the new PD DVD...no answer yet.

Thanks Dave K #1. I told Amanda I needed a motor to rebuild while I was in here...figured I have plenty of time to rat-tail all those castings for a K321 KILLER KOHLER.

 

[wcompton]

Mr. Tiernan-
I may be corrected but I think a 123 has a solid coupling to the hydro, might be worth finding a parts tractor with a decent flex coupling. That coupling might be just enough to save wear on the pin/coupler.

THe only other guess I have is that if the coupler and shaft look good, that possibly the engine is installed at a slight angle, pointing slightly left or right, then trying to use the coupler more like a universal joint. I can't say exactly how to make sure it's in straight, the only way I can figure sounds like a lot of work (indicating the frame sides to the crankshaft, the PTO and S/G drive would need to be removed . . . and being that there's no guarantee that the frame rails are straight it's little better than a shot in the dark)


(Message edited by wcompton on July 11, 2004)

 

[jchabot]

Dennis T:

Yes the driveshaft holes do get worn and will not hold a pin in them. Driving the pin in may also wear the hole, if the pin doesn't go in straight it will tear out some of the shaft metal. Best way to install the pin is with a vise and a socket, they are finicky.

 

[dharmon]

Ryan:
All of that sounds painful, best wishes and get well soon.

Dennis:
Is it a roll pin, taper or straight pins can work their way out.

I have a question about the arm that raises and lowers the deck. On both my 124 and 125 models the last lock slot in th up position is not attainable. Is this common? Cant adjust to make up for it. Would be nice to have when using 3 point with blade. I hope I have given enough info. Thanks in advance.

 

[sreinbolt]

I'm trying to hook up a new voltage regulator on my Cub 70. The terminals on the new regulator are labeled differently than the old one. Can anyone give me any guidance. Any help appreciated.

 

[bmarshall]

Hello IH studio audience. I have questions regarding the 147 and 149. I have brochures showing the early 149, and in Updike's book page 85, and 87 it shows the side panel painted yellow on the wide frame 147. Is this accurate?

I have had a 149 since 1974 and was IH white, not yellow. I've never seen any other pics showing a yellow side panel. When and what other models had it?

Was this also true of the black SG? I know the 1x8, and 1x9's had them, but did the 147 wide frame also have it?

Lastly, based on the pic's above mentioned, the 147 must have been both nf and wf. Is that true of the 127, and 107 also? And did the 149 ever have manual lift like some of the 169's did?

Thanks as always for your expertise.

 

[dkamp]

Hi Bart!

The marketing picture shown in the Updike book is incorrect- the tractor shown was the 149... I suspect it was a classic case of the marketing-types getting a few steps ahead of the engineering and styling guys...

Dennis T;
In addition to others' comments, check the transaxle-to-frame mounting bolts, especially the two closest to the front.

Alignment of the NF and WF drivelines is a strange thing- the rag-joint rear allows a fair amount of swing, and just a little fore-aft play. The pin-coupler in front allows essentially NO swing, and if installed at proper length, allows a little fore-aft travel, but I haven't seen any that were installed with travel... the pin was always rammed up against the coupler at full depth. My observation has been that the driveshafts were all wearing against the inside of the coupler bore, too... likely from deflection of the frame, and resultant malignment. Funny thing about the frames- when any of those transaxle bolts are a little loose, the frame loses enough rigidity that it gets pretty flexy... causes cracks to form at the steering-box brace, and around the WF pedestal mounts, and wear on the couplers.

My gut feeling (and I've got a pretty big gut) is that you've probably got enough squish going... or even a lose or waller'd-out engine bolt to cause the malignment to be high enough to snap that pin off. It's pretty hard... and there's just not enough torque to shear it... typically they'll shear when the pin and slot is worn enough to 'hammer' against it... but the other way is if something's crooked...

 

[tschweizer]

Bart, that picture is wrong. It's a 149 that is airbrushed to a 147. I have one of those "ultra rare super high dollar" owners manuals that has that. It's been discussed on here before.

The 147 is a narrow frame only. Hyd lift came standard on 149's, but optional on 169's.

 

[dkamp]

Spent a few hours this morning tearing down a GM Marine 350 that'd been left through winter full-of-water... broke the block open in a few places...

but thinking...

Imagining a 90 degree liquid-cooled V4... just lop the two center cylinders out... shorten the camshaft... slice the heads... drop it in a WF...

 

[slanda]

Can anyone provide a better working schematic of the orig clutch than in the orig manual maybe the internals,thanks shawn.

 

[still gt pulling with my turbo diesel 1782]

Kevin,the Kubota shop manual shows the mechanical fuel pump also. I wonder if that is a replacement engine in the 782D? Some early D600B engines used in the first 782d did have that pump on too. What is the tractor SN? Must be an early one.

I know that no difference is noticed with/without the pump,performance-wise. It was sort of like belt and suspenders ;-)

 

[kdunham]

Ryan-

Jim D.-Thanks. Yes,it's an early one,I'm going to remove it and put on the blockoff plate. Kinda like an appendix....

 

[cmccarty]

Donnie,
I have the same situation with my 106. Can't get to the highest lift notch. It is a real irritation when plowing. But now I,ve changed plow tractors so I have a whole new set of irritations. An un-named mechanic suggested carefully filing away at the frame until the lift arm would go back far enough to engage that last slot.
CJM

 

[jmacdonald]

Good evening. I haven't been on in quite a while. My computer hard drive took a nose dive and with it went all my passwords etc.
I have seen quite few "blades" for the model 70 on the net some say snow/dirt others say snow. Is there a difference.
Thanks for any help
jimmac

 

[tschweizer]

Good seeing you again Steve. I got lights again!!! Pics tomorrow.

This little trip down memory lane is for Blunier!!

 

[dtiernan]

Thanks for all the replies on the driveshaft pin. The engine mounting is one of the things I wanted to check out when I pick it up. The driveshaft is probably the problem. The original one was trashed and I put one from a parts tractor back in.
I just had the rear end out of it a couple of weeks ago when the pin let go. I took the opportunity to fix the hydro linkage. It had been jumping and not going in reverse at times for several years. The first time he told me about it, I told him "I can fix that!" He couldn't believe how much better it worked.
He has tried to give it to me a couple of times when it was giving him trouble. I keep telling him , let me see what I can do for it. I look at it as a challenge to keep it going. Plus, he is one of the two merchants in downtown Shueyville, IA. and keeps me well supplied with cool tools from his store. I imagine one of these days I will have to take it off his hands.;o)

 

[dtiernan]

Travis,

Is that picture from the WFM weekend or is it still sitting in that spot?

 

[sblunier]

Denny,

WFM.......he has sold the "splitting stand" since then....it ;ools real pathetic now!!!!!

Travis,

Yeah, good to see you too.......I trust you have lights and that you and Spence both don't have any curly hair or burn finger tips to wear as a badge of honor?!?!?!?!!

Ryan,

Hope you get that leg taken care of well enough to keep it from being a problem later......12' fall is a hell of a drop, glad to hear nothing worse happened. Good luck on a speedy recovery. BTW, RH clutch is a no-brainer....Plow Special will ride again!!!!!!

 

[tschweizer]

Well, with all that wiring, both of us managed to only get shocked by the electric fence

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ryan, good to hear that your home. At least the doctors didn't use JB weld on your shattered bone! )

Shawn, does this exploded view of the Original Clutch assembly help any?

Wilburn, the 1811 is basically the same as a 782. Cub Cadet Corp (later MTD) renamed the 782 to 1811 when they bought out the Cub Cadet line from <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT>. Many of the guys here can answer the questions you have on it. Sorry to say that I don't know of any downloadable manuals for it except that Kohler has downloadable operator's and service manuals for the engine.