Archive through July 08, 2014

[aschumacher]

I put my gas cap in my rear pocket, then look on the ground for 5 min till I remember where I really put it !

 

[jbaker]

LOL


Now a real question I know its here and havent found it,

But what size plug or flared cap do I use on a 149 that I pulled the hydraulics from?

 

[belliott]

Wow. I didn't think the color of a clutch spring would cause so much debate. I read the threads after work today and thought I should snap some pics this weekend when I get some time. I hit Jeff B's post and took action.

I have four pictures here of the subject clutch spring and throwout lever. A neighbor when I grew up gave me the tractor in about the year 2000. I started using it in the early 1980's every weekend at their house before she gave it to me. I maintained the tractor at my parents house until 2008 when my dad gave it to my ham-fisted youngest brother. I regained control of it January 2014.

I don't know of any work done to the clutch other than the rear sproil pin broke about 1988 and was replaced. I replaced the pins and throwout bearing. It was locked up and my brother continued to use the tractor. I don't know how he didn't hear the noise or how he could have ignored it.

After I replaaced the bearing and pins the clutch pedal is difficult to depress. Also I had to run the adjusting nut almost all the way in to get the clutch to disengage. I had hoped to get away without buying a throw out lever but without replacing the lever I will question it because it has damage. Anyone else have a work throw out lever cause these problems? It is really too bad because of all the Cub Cadets in the neighborhood this one had the smoothest clutch.

Anyway, here are the promised pictures:

Bob

 

[belliott]

Speaking of gas caps, my 1450 is an early model (January 1975) and has the early smaller diameter gas cap. I can't open that cap without channel lock pliers. The plastic on plastic seizes and the cap is a small diameter so I don't get the leverage I need to get it moving. Does anyone have a fix for this? I wonder of coating the threads with a light film of grease would help.

 

[aschumacher]

Bob' dont't know what others will say, but regular grease (a petroeum product) will damage a number of plastic parts(also from petro bases). Suggest silicon lube if you need to.

 

[jbaker]

Bob log back on and hit enter after each pic, it might be too late, You streched the forum

And in the future after each picture hit enter twice, Thanks for the pictures now lets study them

Any way that spring looks original but it looks very suspect being red,

Is it just me or does it look yellow underneath in areas??

 

[mhomrighausen]

Count the coils on the spring and compare it to a stock Cub Cadet spring. Steve B. is correct about multi-use for springs, etc.

About where to put your gas cap when refueling your Cub Cadet. Best place is on the floor somewhere under the tractor. That is where mine usally end up if I accidently bump the floor board where I initially put it and the cap to the gas can.

Off to work... Everyone have a safe and wonderful day.

 

[dfrisk]

JEFF - Must be you or your monitor, I see no yellow on Bob's spring. There is a mostly rust colored with a few yellow paint flecks flat washer between the roll pin & spring.

The comment Bob made about the clutch being hard to depress makes me think that spring is the Red die spring pullers use. Explains the broken roll pin & worn-out T/O bearing too.

If I get time today I'll compare my red die spring to an OEM spring.

Just for the sake of clarification, in all my years of purchasing, the HARDEST part to switch suppliers on is a spring regardless of type, compression or tension. Every spring supplier has their own unique method of wrapping wire, the temper of the steel, source of the steel, and it all effects the final pounds of force per inch of compression or elongation of a spring. I always found that if you had a suppler making you a good usable spring, no quality or delivery problems, just use them and be happy. If you switch suppliers, you will have to factor in many engineering hours testing the different forces the springs other suppliers would make, the supplier will have to make several sample runs with different size wire, different coil pitchs, maybe different over-all free lengths, prints will have to be re-drawn... all adds tremendously to the cost of a supplier change to save a penny on a spring.

And when I gas up my 982, the cap w/fuel gauge gets set on the seat.

 

[dschwandt]

Bob...Your pin, hanger and arm are likely worn quite a bit by this point.

The thicknes of the arm where the pin passes through just screams for more bearing surface.

These parts in my 126 that I'm currently working on were so bad I sprung for all new parts as well as a new TO bearing. Not cheap I know, but peace of mind is worth something also I believe and this unit will surely outlive me by decades!

 

[cellis]

If your 782 ammeter was showing a slight discharge, what would be your first thought about the cause?

 

[bjamison]

Quick Question - anyone tried an MWSC underdrive gear set? Thinking about putting one in my 126 with the 20% gear reduction. It should bring 2nd gear down to 3.1 mph from 3.9 and 1st gear down from 2.3 mph to 1.8

IMHO - for the terrain I mow, this would slow the tractor enough to make it much easier to handle in 2nd gear and slow enough in 1st gear to trim easier.

Anyone installed one of these underdrives? Easy - difficult?

 

[jpatchett]

Craig,

Could be the voltage regulator, alternator/stator, amp meter or wiring.
With the Engine Off Key Off does the amp meter indicate zero? With the EO Key On is it still zero or did not move? With EO, turn on the lights (assuming you have them) the meter should show slight discharge. With the Engine Running lights off is the meter position different from previous readings . and again with ER lights on .

Jim

 

[belliott]

Dave S, you said:

"The thicknes of the arm where the pin passes through just screams for more bearing surface."

What do you mean? The throw out lever? Can you circle the area of concern and repost the picture?

 

[nbextermueller]

Bill,
I've put in MWSC over drives for pulling. It's very straight forword. If you have enough mechanical sense to get the rearend out of the frame, you'll be able to swap the gears.

Craig,

I would first measure what you have coming out of the regulator/rectifier. Should be 14-15DC V @ 3000rpm. If yes, next I would check that it's making it though the key switch then the PTO switch. Just follow the voltage down the wires until your no longer getting 14-15V. The piece behind it is the problem. Mine was the key switch.

 

[hydroharry]

Aah, the paint color debate (or in some cases no paint).

Bob - thanks for posting the pics. I think it's really helpful to everyone. I don't know if you have an original spring or an IH CC or MTD replacement spring (which I've seen brand new painted red) or if you have the stronger puller spring. If Dennis can count the coils on his I guess you can figure it out. I suspect it's really a IH CC or MTD replacement.

Diving a littel further into your pictures, I see you have what look like are very nice ISO-mounts. Have you done the cradle conversion to your ISO-bars?

And finally, on the paint - I'm surprised to see your steering column tube painted yellow. I'm pretty certain the one on my 1450 was black. I know it was black where it goes above the dash, and since Dennis is almost absolutely positive IH didn't have black paint, well it must have been supplied in black. What color is yours above the dash?

And as for the clutch pedal depression problem - I'll have to leave that to the Gear Heads, but I do know "depression" issues should be addressed by a real professional.

 

[jsalatino]

Since all you guys are talking about the red clutch spring , I found 1 on a 102 or maybe it was a 122. I cant remember without looking . After it sat around for a year or so I decided to pull a few parts off it and I noticed it had a red clutch spring on it. It looked about like the pics posted earlier. I thought it might have been a stiffer spring and I was bored at the time so I decided to take it off. Its the exact same size as a stock spring , same length same number of coils , same wire diameter same everything. Didn't think much about it ,still sitting in a box out in the garage.

 

[hydroharry]

Jonathan - thanks for confirming what I had seen before. In fact, I don't actually recall seeing a yellar one. I think they were all either rusty or red.

 

[sblunier]

If possible, seeing where the original IH part number for the clutch spring was used (across the whole line) may turn up lots of clues.

IH LOVED using belt tensioners with compression springs with 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4" all-thread adjusting bolts throught the center of the spring and a big heavy washer that was double nutted on top. They are all over combines, hay equipment, forage harvesters, etc. It is VERY likely that the spring was used in the ag line in another application and the replacement parts for Cub Cadet clutches came painted red for many years. MTD may use the same source, same paint.

In the end it doesn't really matter at all......and with MANY reasons they could be different colors continuing to try to ferrett out a reason becomes an exercise in folly. If you want a stock spring, order it from MTD and install it (whatever color it is)....if you want something hotter, order whatever aftermarket suppliers product floats your boat, in whatever color they make it.

Harry,

Many steering columns have yellow paint on the bottom, where they were oversprayed when painting the frame....top is still black, but box and bottom of tube is often yellow.

 

[belliott]

Harry,

I know for sure that the column on this tractor was never changed. It is black above the dash.

If anything the spring was changed with a stock replacement but I highly doubt it. I know for sure this isn't a pulling spring. This tractor only had a 44" deck underneath it and occasionally pulled a Parker sweeper or #2 cart so there was no need for a stiffer spring.

 

[belliott]

Harry,

Yes I did the engine cradle mount mod. I replaced the ISO mounts with new parts about 10 years ago.