Archive through July 08, 2013

[kostendorf]

Matt,
Not really an expert on this but the 108 has a flat oil pan that bolts to the frame and a QL has a deep oil pan with iso motor mounts.

 

[cfaulconer]

Thank all of you for your help with my backfire issue. I will go through all of your suggestions this weekend. Harry, I have only had the 122 for a year, bought it from my uncle and have always had a backfire problem, but I will go through all of what you suggested to cover the bases and I will let you all know what I find. Thank you.

 

[hydroharry]

Chauncey - I know I provided alot of steps to go thru. Not knowing exactly the condition of your muffler or how much money you might want to put out to resolve the problem, but I could have also suggested the last step (replacing the muffler) be considered first. If the end cap on your muffler is already very lose and rotates, and seems like it could just be twisted off and you don't mind paying for a new muffler you could just try it first to see if it resolves the problem. I would suggest a good quality muffler from one of the sponsors. I think CC Specialties still has an OEM muffler but you could discuss with Charlie about the differences in what he has available. I'd definitely stay away from some of those cheap aftermarkets mufflers out there. They might look the same on the outside but the insides make up the guts and who knows what's in there.

Matt S - yes I saw your question but was hoping someone would give you a complete run thru on what is necessary. I think the biggest issues to overcome are the integrated starter, an electric PTO, and the stator charging system on the QL engine. I suppose you could come up with a short term jury rig wiring set up to overcome these 3 issues. If you do this I'd make sure you use a good heavy gauge wire going to the starter. I would not use any of the QL engine stator wiring for the charging system, and your wire to the electric PTO should have an inline fuse. Even if you do this I don't know how long you can run on just battery power by itself, or whether doing this would eventually damage your voltage regulator on the 108 without it charging at all. Otherwise, the engine should be a direct bolt in to the frame of your 108. I'm not certain if the flywheel cup and driveshaft coupler from the 108 will directly fit the QL engine so you may have to do some swapping to make those work as well. And you'll have to remove the grill from your 108 so the QL muffler can exit on the front as well. I think that's about all that you would need to do on a temp basis. I think Keith was concerned with the oil pan but it's not an issue. The dished pan on a QL engine is the same as one used on the Kohler engine in a 128 or 149 or 169. You didn't mention what QL engine you have access to but if it's a 10hp you could remove the flywheel shroud and flywheel and install the flywheel and shroud from your 108 10hp, and then use the Starter/Generator as well. But you also have to remove the electric PTO from the QL engine and the muffler and the exhaust pipe coming out of the QL engine, and then you could install your PTO from the 108, and the muffler and exhaust pipe from the 108. You'll also have to figure out some mounting methods for the throttle and choke cables, and I'm not sure if the mounting for the coil on the QL will work as is of if you'd have to convert that to the 108 style as well. All in all this is not a simple temp swap, but could be done.
Hope this helps.

 

[kide]

Backfire??? Shout "Pull!!" and grin

 

[lfrelich]

I'm rebuilding the driveline on a 129. Cant find a spec for torque on the bolts that attach the flex coupling to the driveshaft. I've seen them so tight the flex coupling gets squashed. Whats a good method to get them tightened right?

 

[ljones]

Went out to the barn today to get the 122 and the batt was completely dead (0 volts) nothing was left on, it has never done this before, and was fine a week ago. The batt a little over a month old, the ignition switch is new, the s/g has been rebuilt, and the wireing harness is in good condition. What might cause this?

 

[mstetar]

thanks Harry, that does help, the wiring is what i was worried about, guess if i put both diagrams side b side i should be able to come up with something

 

[rwilke]

Lucas J.,
I'd guess that the battery failed internally. Has it been heavily jarred or banged around any? If so, then the plates inside could have broke loose or even shorted out with each other.

Have you tried to re-charge it? I suspect it won't take a charge. Where did you buy it? Maybe they'll take it back with a slight penalty (pro-rated against the expected life) for the one month of service.

Ryan W

 

[hydroharry]

Lucas - I sure agree with what Ryan said. I'd sure take that battery back. I think most come with a 90 day full replacement if they fail, and sure sounds like yours is completely done for. Good luck with it.

 

[jchamberlin]

Update on my 149 S/N 2050047U464260
In addition to the rusty gas tank, another issue that has booted me out of the seat is the drive train on this tractor. The K321 manufactured for this series employs a slotted drive hub and a solid pin at the engine in front, with a single flex disk arrangement at the hydro pump in the rear. My problem is that the pins in the front either break or fall out. The root cause is wear in the slot which allows the pin to either wiggle free or break.

Yesterday the tractor left me in the lurch right after some particularly smart driving around and through the grapevines in back of the shed. Feeling very proud of myself for how quickly I had maneuvered forwad and reverse all while turning, I was disappointed when the tractor suddenly stopped in the middle of the yard. Evidently, the "smart" driving was a dumb move on my part.

I realized immediately what had happened:

The pin was MIA from the slot!

You will note that in an effort to get the tractor working after installing a solid pin lasted all of two minutes, I installed a rolled pin just to get the tractor moving again. You can see that the pin is not solid:

Notice too the worn slot in the first pic.

Luckily, I had a new replacement hub and pin from Cub Cadet Specialties on hand:

I installed a new disk from Cub Cadet Classics at the rear as well.

The old disk was correct for a 782, I had used it when I replaced the non-existant hydro fan a couple of years ago when I first acquired the tractor; the replacement disk is correct for the 149.

If you should ever have the opportunity to reassemble a Wide Frame drive train, please note the following sequence:

1. Install hub onto drive shaft
2. Install hub end to the motor
3. Compress drive shaft by sliding it into the drive hub enough to allow you to . . .
4. Install the flex disk at the rear
5. install three of the 1/4"-20 bolts holding the drive hub the motor
6. Install pin
7. Intall last of the four (4) 1/4"-20 bolts

Install at rear (hydro pump):

Install at front (engine):

The job took me a little more than an hour. It is a lot more fun working on the Cub when you know what's wrong and have the parts on hand to fix it right the first (second, or third) time. Many thanks to our sponsors named above.

Final Note: I noticed some play at the rear where the drive shaft attaches to the hydro pump. The cast piece to which the flex coupling mounts appears loose on the input shaft to the pump and the pin seems a bit loose in the hole. I have some items to add to my next order.

If the new parts at the front and rear don't solve the pin-breaking problem, another option put forth by Paul Bell on Saturday, April 13, 2013 at 08:55 am is to install a Quiet Line style flex coupling arrangement at both ends. Since I already have a QL style drive shaft, I might give his recommendation a shot, but only if the style a original to the tractor just doesn't cut it. Paul mentioned that the QL style was less expensive to implement.