Archive through July 07, 2012

[teroberts]

Thanks Jeff, Charlie and Marlin.
I will see to it Monday. I guess the lawn is probably not going anywhere right away and my anal neighbor who mows every 15 minutes is off camping, if that is what you can call "sleeping outdoors" in a 32 foot trailer.

 

[drglinski]

Drive pin breakage is a love/hate situation. You hate when it happens, thinking something is seriously wrong, just to find out when removal of the drive shaft screen that the engine is turning and the drive shaft is not. Then you love it when it's an easy replace the pin fix.

 

[bwittman]

Thank you, Ken.

I may have to set the engine in the frame, do some measuring, then lift out the engine and shim the snubbers accordingly.

I discovered that 3/8" x 2 1/4" bolts for the ISO mounts and were found in the prior ISO mounts are too short for the current design OEM ISO mounts. The service bulletin included in the mount kit calls for using the same length bolt that came out of the machine. Needed are 3/8" x 2 3/4" bolts. I bought new grade 8 bolts from Caterpillar for the engine mounts. I guess it is a trip back to the Cat dealer soon for an exchange.

If I am not careful, I just might make a tractor out of this thing.

Of all the things I have lost, I think I miss my mind the most.

 

[mgwin]

David,

Does the problem change any when you take it in and out of gear?
One easy thing to not overlook: make sure the gas cap is breathing freely. A partially clogged gas cap may cause this.
One other idea could be governor problems. Make sure the linkage settings are correct going to the governor. Also, make sure the governor arm is not slipping on the governor shaft. Hope this helps.

P.S. Let us know what you find if anything.

 

[kfreeman]

David C.

You certainly have tried to eliminate all of the possibilities!

If it was a fuel problem, then it should have run on ether. Do you have vacuum at the carb? I have seen a loose intake allow air in after the carb on old B&S engines. They would go from sealed to loose with vibration and stall the engine.

If it was a electrical problem - you have replaced, or bypassed about every part. I guess the spark plug/or wire could be grounding out after the timing light, but you have replaced the plug wire and plug.

That would leave a mechanical problem. What about a sticking exhaust valve? You are running MMO, but is it still a possibility? I don't know the symptoms, but have you heard the valve pop back after it quits? Can you restart it immediately after it quits?

 

[cmiracle]

This wheel is putting up a fight...

I've tried the method in the FAQ's that worked well with my 1200, but this guy on the 71 hasn't budged. The cap nut came off fairly easy, but now it seems as if the steering wheel is threaded and and screwed onto the shaft? Is it?
I have been soaking the thing in Liquid Wrench overnight and throughout the day

 

[dtanner]

Clark Miracle

That steering wheel just slides on a spline . look in the FAQ and you will see the trick to remove the wheel.

 

[dclinansmith]

Marty, Ken, It doesn't seem to matter if the tractor is pulling or sitting still just at a fast idle. I tried without a gas cap but I also got a new one for it. I do run MMO in the gas but not the oil. I have removed the plug immediately after it quits and it always has compression. I went thru a sticking valve with my 149 but haven't heard the valve snap shut on this one. I didn't consider the governor since it has plenty of power when it's running good. I will certainly check it in any case. The carb has new gaskets as well as that insulator. It will restart immediately, occasionally it will stall again but usually runs a while. Thanks for the ideas, I'll let you know if I ever figure it out.

 

[mgwin]

Clark,

Spray/soak the center twice a day for a week and then try the FAQ suggestion. If this don't work, and you don't mind messing up the plastic bushing under the wheel, try putting heat to it ONLY in one spot and then do the FAQ suggestion. We have done this at work to successfully remove stuck bearings before. Hope this helps.

 

[thoffman]

Clark,
Since you have a 70 with the <u>ALL STEEL</u> center I'd put some heat to it. Don't go nutz though and cook the outside finger grips. A propane tourch will work.

 

[thoffman]

I guess I type too slow.

 

[mgwin]

David,

Have you tried fresh fuel WITHOUT the MMO?

If you have, never mind.

If not, empty and rinse the tank with gas and then try some super unleaded non-ethanol if you can get it.

 

[dfrisk]

DAVID - I bet you have something inside the gas tank blocking the fuel outlet. When the engine runs, gas flows and pulls the obstruction into the outlet. When it dies, it floats away. Or it's just the float hanging up/sticking.

CLARK M. I agree with Marty, spray/soak the wheel bore & shaft with whatever your favorite rust buster is, then try again in a few days. I've never had a steering wheel stuck enough that pressing up with my knees and a tap or two from a small hammer wouldn't pop them loose. But then I've only ever let any of my CC's set outside maybe 4-5 nights in the last 30+ yrs.

The fit of the splines is tight, and if the wheel has been on long, takes some time for the lube to get where it needs to. I'd only use heat as a last resort.

 

[wheinsohn]

David, I feel for you and if you get the problem solved, let me know. I have been fighting the same issue on my 1650 for the past few years. I have had the tank off 3 times. The last time I pulled the shut-off assembly out and made sure the screen was clean, and it was. I also have tried 2 different coils, new points and condensors, spark plugs and wires. I even pulled the head to make sure the gasket was not leaking. The last time I pulled the engine to make sure the fins were not filled fill of crap causing the engine to overheat and they were as clean as can be. I finally put a mower deck on it and just run it. It now runs for about 1.25 hours before it will act up. It will not quit but acts like it is out of fuel, then catch itself and away we go for a couple minutes and then the same thing again. Like you, it has lots of power and runs like there is not even a 50" deck under it no matter how thick the grass or how tall it is. Unfortunately, I have not had to mow grass for for over 6 weeks. It may not get used again until the snow flies.

 

[dclinansmith]

Marty, I have tried fresh fuel with & without.

Dennis, I took the in tank screen out for now to see if I could trap something in an inline filter. I have cleaned the tank twice.If its a float sticking its three carbs with the same problem.I took one out of the box it had never been installed on anything.

Wes, You have my sympathy, I am begining to think there is no good solution. I am glad you mentioned the head gasket I was going to put on a new one this week. That info just saved me some time & $$. Thanks. I haven't been mowing with this one ,I did work it with two sections of disc and a lot of weight. It didn't make a bit of difference.

 

[fcurrier]

My turn:

This crew done me good today. I'd have taken more pics, but they just wouldn't quit until now:

Wake up, Don T., I'm calling.

 

[dclinansmith]

Marty, I forgot to mention that I have not tried the super grades of gas but it's worth a try even at close to 4$ a gal.

 

[cmiracle]

My 1200 has a problem kinda similar to David's and Wes's. It'll run great at full throttle while mowing, but as soon as it heats up I have to keep her wide open and running. I have to keep it running/at full throttle because if I don't, the engine simply won't accelerate over about 1/3 full rpms even though the throttle is wide open. It'll start and accelerate up to full speed after a few hours of not running, and will run fine with plenty of power as long as I mow, (1 hour), if I do keep it at full throttle.

 

[mgwin]

David,

I'm gonna go way out on a limb. Don't call me crazy,

but try another voltage regulator. It wouldn't be too terribly hard to swap one.

I've seen wierder things happen!

 

[kfreeman]

David,

I was going on your statements that it was showing a spark until it quit turning over and that it would not run on ether.

There is a spark tester that goes between the sparkplug and spark plug wire. It has an adjustable gap inside a window. With this you could find a weak spark. If you have a strong spark and the timing it correct, it would be on to fuel.

Is the intake path airtight though the carburetor and into the block. You said it was. Any chance that the throttle or choke plates or cables are loose? A closed choke plate would cause the engine to stall. Are there any signs that the engine is too rich when stalling (black exhaust smoke)? Is there vacuum through the carb as the engine is stalling?

Can you spray fuel or carb cleaner (not ether) in the carb throat when the engine is stalling and does this do anything?

Any chance that there is an exhaust blockage? I had a catalytic convertor clog up and cause a car engine to stall with back pressure.

On the mechanical side, a sticking valve comes to mind. To those who might know, is there any way that the ACR could malfunction and hold the exhaust valve open slightly?

I am just kinda thinking out loud. Pardon me if I have mentioned things that you have already eliminated.

Good luck!