Archive through July 07, 2012

[lhinds]

David what you are describing sounds to me like a ground issue. Have you run a separate temporary ground from the _ battery post to the engine? A points bracket screw being loose can cause problems. Some points come with and some without the bracket that they mount on. Did you change the condenser bracket as well as the condenser? The condenser ground will cause that type of problem. Also i had a wire broken within the insulation from coil to the points that took me 2 months to find. Also you could hook a analog volt meter to the - side of the coil and watch it while the tractor is trying to die and see if you are loosing fire.

 

[sashiery]

Clark, if you are in a hurry, get a big gear puller and a bearing separator. Put the acorn nut back on the shaft and tighten it almost to the hub on the steering wheel, otherwise you'll ruin the end of the shaft. Leave a sixteenth of an inch or a little more thread showing. All you need to do with the puller is get the hub moving on the shaft.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Luther R. I think that you are onto something with David C.'s problem. Could even be in the switch.... (just a Gus' Garage thought there).

 

[rfuller]

Would anyone have a dimensional drawing for an Onan B48G that is in the 982?

Thanks,

Rob

 

[kharvey]

I think the switch was ruled out if he ran a wire direct from the battery to the coil. Have you changed the fuel line. I had a rubber line that looked new on the outside and was mush on the inside. It would stop the flow to the carb.
After sitting a minute would start back up.

 

[lhinds]

I also had this problem on a four HP kohler and changed the carb and gas line but used the same elbow on the new carb where the gas went in. My problem was in the gas line elbow.

 

[dclinansmith]

Marty, I went out on the limb and swapped voltage regulators today, No change. I already had the extra ground Luther mentioned. I installed that from a starter mount bolt to one of the mount bolts on the dash tower. From there direct to the neg terminal on the bat. I did that when I rebuilt the tractor. It also has a ground strap between the muffler housing and a grill mount bolt. The points have a new bracket and the condenser has a new clamp, all screws are tight. I put an extra ground from the condenser mount bolt to a voltage regulator bolt and connected it to the extra ground cable at the dash tower. I also re cleaned all major battery connections and grounds. When it stalled this time it seemed to take longer to quit but was harder to restart. I might be making some negative headway.

Luther, I have never had a problem with a gas line elbow. Could you tell me exactly what was wrong with it please. I have checked mine for blockage and cracks but nothing else.

 

[dclinansmith]

I forgot to mention that there was voltage to the points when it quit the first time. A syringe of gas directly into the carb inlet did nothing to perk up the engine while it was in the process of stalling and there is no black smoke.

 

[jchamberlin]

David, Wes: I think Ken might be on to something with the exhaust. If the muffler is rusted out on the inside, pieces can come loose and block the flow creating back pressure and stalling the engine. Since the problem occurrs randomly and intermittently, it can be very difficult to trace. Sometimes the issue resolves itself when the offending piece of rusted out muffler gets lodged out of the way, or the muffler simply disintegrates.

Right now, I'm wondering about the state of your exhaust systems.

Just a thought . . .

 

[mgwin]

David,

Are you sure the governor is working properly and freely? Try moving the governor arm when it starts stalling and see if that makes any difference. Just a thought. Somebodys' bound to figure it out sooner or later.