Archive through July 06, 2008

[rbedell]

Edward T:

Click on this link for your Steering Problem....Steering Rebuild

 

[lhinds]

John; You have lost voltage or the voltage regulater is stuck, or burned up. Unhook the wire the guy hooked up. Probally a headlight wire and it has shorted. Check battery voltage. Then remove, Clean, Reinstall the wire that was loose on the solenoid. Clean all electrical starting connections.Take your voltmeter and start checking to see that voltage is getting past the solenoid when key is turned to start position. Be sure to check the ground connections.
Hope this helps. Luther

 

[jthompson]

Looking to put a hydraulic lift on my 126 (not the IH add-on lift. I'm just going to use my own pump and cylinder). However, I noticed that when this is done the long lift lever is removed and the cylinder is attached to a "tab" on the rock shaft where the lever was. My lever is welded to the "tab". Is this something the P.O. did, or did it come from the factory like this? Just wondering b/c unless someone has a solution I'm not seeing, I'm gonna have to break out the torch on this thing. Doesn't seem like you would have had to break out the torch to install the IH add-on hydraulic lift. Just checking before I did.

 

[bweichel]

Hi! I'm new here and am trying to get my 104 running again. It's getting no spark from the coil and the coil is almost too hot to touch so I disconnected the battery before something burned up. Is this a symptom of more than just a bad coil? If I do get a replacement coil should I chance buying a used one? Thanks

 

[kide]

Bill:
Welcome to the forum!
May seem to be a dumb question, but are you sure the points are opening? If they're closed all the time, the coil will start to heat up, as it's meant for momentary connection during each firing cycle only......

 

[scolson]

What are the general thoughts on the 169 model?I've nver seen many of them,is there a reason for that?Thanks

 

[bbrigham]

Shawn, they didn't make many 169's. I think all of us narrow frame guys would even like to get our hands on one.

 

[jmitchell]

Luther..Thanks for the taking the time to respond. I will clean and reconnect all terminals and see if that causes any reaction. Would a stuck voltage regulator cause the entire starting system to cease to function altogether? The V/R looks like a brand new unit. Has the three connection terminals out the side and a ground terminal on the back. I was looking at wiring harness schematic for the 126 and saw that all the three of the connection terminals on the V/R show they used and grounding of the regulator body appears to be a separate connection. On the V/R that is on my 126. It is wired with the B connection going directly to one side of the volt-meter. The F connection goes to the F post of the S/G..The 3rd connection marked "L" is unused. The Blue wire of the harness that connected to the G terminal of the V/R shown in the wiring diagram, is connected to what looks like a ground terminal on the back of the new looking V/R that is mounted on the 126. I'm not real great with electrical issues and have little free time to spare, [which required me to farm out the clutch job to a guy who has 18 years in as a mechanic at my local IH/Case Cub Cadet dealership]. Again..I do so appreciate your taking the time to help out!

Best Regards

John Mitchell
Cecilia, Kentucky

 

[dtanner]

Well got home from camping this afternoon and the grass needed mowing,was thinking about my O on the way home .Its great fun on a Cub Cadet Original lol

 

[theaton]

Shawn C, in my neck of the woods there are not many 169's. The garden tractor pulling circuit round here snatched most of them up years ago.Mostly for the 16hp engine, the largest engine that they are allowed to run.

 

[klejeune]

John M.
Did you make sure you had juice coming from the battery? Sounds like the battery gave up to me. Also, take the tractor back to the guy and have him show you what wire he hooked back up. That may have killed your battery.

 

[jcarson]

i have a 169 its been a good tractor. i think its a better one than the 1650 that a friend has. even though his is much nicer,,, but like they say its only skin deep,,jared

 

[scolson]

I looked at the tractor.It's OK,it has a new carb and battery.Are these bigger carbs than the 12HP models?Thanks

 

[jmitchell]

Alrighty...I spoke to the IH mechanic who did the clutch job and he says he just put new terminal ends onto the wires at the V/R as one of them pulled out of the original ends...I will try a different battery and perhaps bypass the volt gauge and see if I get anything. The battery does show 12.7 volts when tested across the battery post terminals with my cheap digital multi-meter..I did notice it is 4 or 5 years old though, so it may well have some voltage reading, but be sulfated enough to not have any amperage..

I'll post back when I know something more.

Thanks for the ideas.

Best Regards

John Mitchell
Cecilia Ky.

 

[mjohnson]

A couple months ago I bought a 129 on Ebay. It was the first one that actually ran when I bought it. It came with a mower deck but there was no PTO on the engine. No problemo....I thought. When I put the PTO on the crank there was about half an inch between the drive basket and the fingers on the fiber clutch disc. The PTO pulley was all the way on the bearing against the stop ring. After some measuring I found that the crankshaft sticks out 3 7/16" when on another 129 the crank only sticks out 2 7/16". Now the question is, do I cut the crank to 2 7/16" or make a pulley that's an inch longer? (I've already made the pulley that's an inch longer but now I'm thinking I'll run into problems down the road with belt lengths and maybe belt clearance. Marshall

 

[theaton]

Well, the rain finally cleared long enough for me to mount the new ags and part of the three point on the 128.
My father is coming for a visit on the 19th of this month, and I have vowed to have the 128 up and running by then. More progress pics to come!

 

[thoffman]

Todd "H",
What brand are those 23 X 8.50 X 12's??

 

[jmitchell]

Ok..I have bypassed the volt meter and changed out the battery for a known good one and still nothing when the ignition switch is turned to start.. Also looked at the internals of the new looking V/R and did not see any burnt contacts or any real signs of it being defective somehow.

So to sum it up.

I have swapped out the original S/G for different known good S/G

I have cleaned connections and terminals and grounds.

Swapped out batteries

By passed the volt meter

Made sure the neutral safety switch bypass was clean bright and tight.

Looked at the connections on the V/R and looked inside to see if there was anything apparently wrong.

I'm at a loss and scratching my head.

I could use the "shotgun" approach and replace the wiring harness, the V/R, ignition switch, volt meter and solenoid and never know what the problem was for probably 200 bucks and a few hours time...Or, hopefully someone will post something I have not tried or have overlooked and I can cut my grass pretty soon!

Thanks in advance for any ideas or tests I might try.

Best Regards

John Mitchell
Cecilia Kentucky.

 

[scolson]

Anybody in the MA/CT area (06093)that has time to work on a 123?(i can't find it!)It's been sitting for 2-3 yrs.It need's a carb rebuild,oil change....I'm willing to pay someone who likes working on these.With fixing up my house and chasing my little girl around,i'm lucky to do normal maintainence!!!

 

[theaton]

Tom H, the tires are Carlisle power tracs.