Archive through July 05, 2007

[nbextermueller]

Stupid archive

It was archived before I even clicked the post button!


Man there are some good looking IH's rolling around in here. I love all the pics.

My Dad and I used to use one of those big "circular saw" saws to cut railroad ties and large trees. We ran it off the belt drive on an old (ssshhhh... Wheel Horse.)

But on to the real reason. On my 128, the mower deck engagement cluth setup appears to be rigged. I'm pretty sure at one time a regular bolt got put in place of the factory part that disengages/engages the deck. You can see the bolt and pressure plate a wearing badly. What goes in place of the bolt? surely I can order "it" from the local cub dealer.



Also, I've had a bit of a stumble concerning the connecting rod clearance. Basically I was too lazy to double check the crank before I put it together and it turns out it is worn to 1.485". (factory is 1.500") so now I gotta have it turned to 1.480" and by another rod .020 over. Ugh. more $ But I love these things it's way worth.

Edit: apparently my photos are to large. I'll work on getting them down in a bit.

 

[jthompson]

Matt,
I was the one that posted about the hitch parts at our local JD dealer. However, our JD dealer is not typical in that it is a HUGE farm and garden store. It's about the size of a Lowe's. While they obviously sell JD specific parts the ones I was looking at were generic much like what you would find at a TSC.

 

[vcottom]

Long story...but I bought a basket case 124 six years ago, and got stated on it. The engine was off, as was the steering box. Between then and now I have survived unsurvivable lung and brain cancer. In the process of chemo and radiation I forgot how the motor mounts to the frame...I think there is a piece missing, my 1450 has a "cradle" bolted to the frame, then the engine bolts to the frame. Has anybody got a couple photos of just how the 124's engine is mounted?

send to: [email protected]

 

[mgonitzke]

Van C.-

There's 4 holes in the frame of the tractor that correspond with 4 tapped holes in the oil pan of the engine. That's all there is to it.

 

[digger]

Van,
To add to what Matt said.
The front two holes are right above the front axle, You know! The one's that require you to tilt the tractor to get the little buggers in!

 

[digger]

BTW,
I found out today that NOT having internet AND cable TV at the same time does not make for a fun day!

 

[kweaver]

Pay your bill !!

 

[digger]

The backhoe that snagged the fiber optic line soon will be, LOL

 

[dfrisk]

NIC - Not sure Kohler or any of the aftermarket companies make .020" undersize rods. All I've ever heard about are .010" U/S.

I've got a K241 out of My old 72 I rebuilt back in 1985 that I'll be VERY interested in mic-ing the crank on. It's the factory crank, and I installed a factory rod about 1400+ hrs ago according to the hour meter, crank has never been turned. I bet it gets a .010" U/S rod! Bore is factory std. size also....I hope a +.010" piston cleans the bore up!

 

[kide]

Charlie - in the telecom business, we referred to that as "backhoe fade" (versus "path fade" on microwave circuits, which you get in the summer about the time the sun is coming up - among other reasons )... We used to say "Farmer Jones must be burying another dead cow". On topic - my smoker 149 will be back running this weekend - finally got the starter/clutch drive pulley...still exploring all the "engineering changes" the PO did to it. Driveshaft has u-joints, voltage regulator is up front..Lift works great, though!

 

[kweimann]

Nic,
Contact Brian Miller
http://members.aol.com/pullingtractor/engine.htm

He can sell you an inserted rod for a -.020 crankpin

 

[vcottom]

Folks, I appreciate helping me find my holes... now if I can find my shop keys..
God bless ya all

 

[kmcconaughey]

Van,

WELCOME!

BTW, I like your personal quote.

 

[bcorn]

Well after looking at the 1000 sitting there all purtty like, decided it was time to get the 1650 ready to do some work.

4th of July after saying a prayer and thnak you for our soldiers, firefighters, police man it was out to the shop. Pulled the motor, cleaned all the grease and old oil from the frame, motor, anything on the front end. Pulled the oil pan and replaced the gasket and also the fill tube gasket. New points, new plug and plug wire, repaired some wiring issues, cleaned gas tank. Installed new ISO mounts main reason for pulling engine!

Love litsening to the Chicago Cubs on the radio out in the shop while working and everything was going fine. Next time I pull that 16 horse I am pulling the pin and dropping the front end. Getting those front blankety blank motor bolts in is just getting to hard for this old man.

Got it all back together by evening and purring like a big ol soft kitten. And Yes, that 16 horse vibrates the hole tractor compared to the 10 horse.

Tomorrow morning finishing up the mower deck and by noon expect to be mowing with that old horse. Couple places I can not get the 7264 into very good. 44 inch deck is the answer to that problem.

Other plans for the 1650? cat 0 hitch for some little toys, and then this winter complete Restro of this big brother to the 1000. Why you may ask? Because I can, and I enjoyed the last one way too much.

Have a safe, enjoyable weekend!!

Pops

 

[glippert]

Ben - I'm sure glad my bride doesn't access this forum. She'd see posts like yours, getting all that work done so quickly, and it would make her realize how dang slow I am! I've convinced her over the past 30 years that "planning is the most important part of any operation" and that "you can't rush a good job." Of course the real reason I'm so slow is my own insecurity about diving into the unfamiliar. Anyway, all of the expertise on this forum helps alot, so thanks to you and all the others for the info. And thanks for remembering our military and civilian public safety servants on our Independence Day!

While I'm at it: Charlie, thanks again for providing this forum!

 

[rchristensen]

Ben C.
The easiest way I have found to remove those front motor mount bolts is to get one of these 9/16th wrenches with the swivel socket on one end.

Jack the front of the tractor up, remove one of the front wheels, that will drop the other side where you can remove the bolt with the wrench and not have to fight the axle. Then remove the other wheel and put the first one back on, then remove the other bolt.

Just takes a few minutes, much faster than trying to remove the front axle.

 

[sblunier]

Richard,

9/16" GearWrench TM is even better, the wratcheting box-end is a god send!!!!!

 

[nbextermueller]

Thanks guys... I'm gonna look for a .020 rod tonight.

I'm a little un easy about calling Brian Miller after his alleged child p*rn charges. We've used his sled for years at our annual pull. It kinda gives me the creeps.

But if I have to, I will. For the sake of the 128.

Thanks again guys!

 

[nbextermueller]

Richard and Ben C.

I have 2 words for you guys and those motor mount bolts under the axel.

"RACHET WRENCHES"

They are a God sent!

 

[tbower]

since when do you have to take the axle off, or a wheel off, to take the motor bolts out or replace them? just jack up one side then take the opposit bolt out, or put it in. then the other side. don't jack it up in the middle.