Here is my 122 all dressed up for the 4th of july parade.
up nexed is my custom flag holder
up nexed is my custom flag holder
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Archive through July 01, 2010
- Thread starter T-Mo
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
mgwin
Well-known member
Harry B.,
No, the engines did not come in three colors. Let me explain myself again. The head was more or less dusted with the aluminum paint to make it look like shiny aluminum. The head should not really be painted at all in order to dissipate the heat adequately. That's why I gave it a "dusting" of paint.
The engine was sent from Kohler to IH in black (read that somewhere) and then painted federal yellow by IH.
I painted the coils black "in honor of Kohler" and to break up all that yellow. I didn't want it to look like I painted everything together without taking it apart and properly cleaning each part individually.
The cooling fins should not have much paint on them either to allow the engine to cool properly.
Let's just say I pretended that IH took the time to only paint the lower engine and didn't paint the fins and head.
No, the engines did not come in three colors. Let me explain myself again. The head was more or less dusted with the aluminum paint to make it look like shiny aluminum. The head should not really be painted at all in order to dissipate the heat adequately. That's why I gave it a "dusting" of paint.
The engine was sent from Kohler to IH in black (read that somewhere) and then painted federal yellow by IH.
I painted the coils black "in honor of Kohler" and to break up all that yellow. I didn't want it to look like I painted everything together without taking it apart and properly cleaning each part individually.
The cooling fins should not have much paint on them either to allow the engine to cool properly.
Let's just say I pretended that IH took the time to only paint the lower engine and didn't paint the fins and head.
I think I know the problem, that "pin" you see on my QA-42A mount bracket is welded in place and cut off on the back side, same thing on the bracket for the other side. It looks like PO cut that bar and welded the ends to the bracket flush with the inside.
In the above pic, looking up and forward as the bracket would be on the tractor, you can see the bottom of the "holder" for the chute swivel arm support. Below that you see the "PIN" (scary voice optional) with a slight bump on the left where the weld is. I'm assuming from replies to my first post that this pin should be a "rod" that extends from one side to the other of assembled bracket held in place with pins.
So if I drill out the Pins, replace the rod and mount, the rod should go thru the hole to the left and the mount can then be bolted thru the next hole as you pan right. Am I close?
Pabst, the current owner of the Schlitz label recently (18 months or so) brought back the 1960's formula for Schlitz. Now contract brewed by Miller.
In the above pic, looking up and forward as the bracket would be on the tractor, you can see the bottom of the "holder" for the chute swivel arm support. Below that you see the "PIN" (scary voice optional) with a slight bump on the left where the weld is. I'm assuming from replies to my first post that this pin should be a "rod" that extends from one side to the other of assembled bracket held in place with pins.
So if I drill out the Pins, replace the rod and mount, the rod should go thru the hole to the left and the mount can then be bolted thru the next hole as you pan right. Am I close?
Pabst, the current owner of the Schlitz label recently (18 months or so) brought back the 1960's formula for Schlitz. Now contract brewed by Miller.
It's all in the details .....
As I'm finishing up the rebuild of my K-301 for my 125, I've discovered two things.
1) Even though you might think that it would be easier to install the screen assembly on the flywheel and torque it correctly when you can actually hold the flywheel, it not.
The screen won't fit thru the outer sheetmetal cover. You have to disassemble that to fit the sheetmetal on and THEN install the screen and torque it to 60 ft lbs.
2) ( the best for last )
Looking at the flywheel on the lower right side, make sure the 1/4-20 bolt you put in to hold the sheetmetal in place isn't too long. You will think you messed up something on the inside of the engine and take off the oil pan and the head to see where the interference is.
As I'm finishing up the rebuild of my K-301 for my 125, I've discovered two things.
1) Even though you might think that it would be easier to install the screen assembly on the flywheel and torque it correctly when you can actually hold the flywheel, it not.
The screen won't fit thru the outer sheetmetal cover. You have to disassemble that to fit the sheetmetal on and THEN install the screen and torque it to 60 ft lbs.
2) ( the best for last )
Looking at the flywheel on the lower right side, make sure the 1/4-20 bolt you put in to hold the sheetmetal in place isn't too long. You will think you messed up something on the inside of the engine and take off the oil pan and the head to see where the interference is.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Jeff-
I think the last one I had that far apart, I put the basket pulley on the crank so there's something to hold when torquing the flywheel nut. I've made that mistake of putting one of the long screws in that hole, too...
I think the last one I had that far apart, I put the basket pulley on the crank so there's something to hold when torquing the flywheel nut. I've made that mistake of putting one of the long screws in that hole, too...
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
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- Harry Bursell
L Rehm - no that's still not correct. We need a pic of a QA42A set up to mount on a narrow frame and then you'll see what that pin is used for.
Also, just remembered, some things from the kit you may need but should be able to get separately. The lift rod you need should be about 30" long. Wide frames are 28 (maybe 27 1/2). Also, if you tractor previously had a front blade you should have the bracket on the side of your lift arm to attach the lift rod. Otherwise you'll need the lift arm bracket for attaching the lift rod. Otherwise, as long as you got the complete QA42A you shouldn't really need anything else. You can't see enough in Jeff's pics (thank you Jeff) and Jeff's is a QA42 made for narrow frames.
Hydro Harry
Old Cub Never Die (and love re-work efforts)
Also, just remembered, some things from the kit you may need but should be able to get separately. The lift rod you need should be about 30" long. Wide frames are 28 (maybe 27 1/2). Also, if you tractor previously had a front blade you should have the bracket on the side of your lift arm to attach the lift rod. Otherwise you'll need the lift arm bracket for attaching the lift rod. Otherwise, as long as you got the complete QA42A you shouldn't really need anything else. You can't see enough in Jeff's pics (thank you Jeff) and Jeff's is a QA42 made for narrow frames.
Hydro Harry
Old Cub Never Die (and love re-work efforts)
I've been having problems with screws vibrating out. Especially on the bottom shield and around the air duct. The vibration is not excessive when running the tractor. I've been using locktite (the purple) which I've used for years, but lately it seems to have fallen short of its purpose. (Does that stuff get old?) The screws are the correct size and the lock washers are as specified. I don't notice any play when installing them. Any suggestions other than permanent epoxy or the red locktite?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
This isn't a NF, but I think it'll help.
kphill
Well-known member
Gary, I work at a place that builds engines. All our loctite has experation dates applied to them by the tool room and you are not to use it after that date. It is about 12 months after purchase. So yes it does go bad after a while. I think you need to buy some fresh stuff
