• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through January 31, 2014

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Harry Bursell

Harry I don`t know who got your 54" blade ; I have one yet to install BUT I can you who bought the hyd angle cylinder from you . One day I need to get the 54" blade from storage and mount it.

Do you guys have the same problems with the weight with a 42" snow thrower? I know a 450 sure is heavy and causes when lifted the back of the tractor to be light and no traction.
bash.gif
 
DON - My QA-36 made my 72 light in the rear, even when I had a couple pair of weights on the back. Lot more steel in a QA-42, would make the problem worse.

DAVE S. - I never had any problems with pushing snow with the blade angled shoving the tractor sideways until last year. We had a couple real wet but light snow falls. When I plow the drive, I have a 40 ft wide section that slopes a bit and push all the snow downhill, and on the last half, the snow pushes BACK! Bigger snows the #1 snow mover is used.
 
Wow... Those Kirk-Killer engines sure have some compression. Look what I found in my yard today, all of the way from Kraig's house!

283257.jpg


283258.jpg


Kraig-
Get over here and pick this thing up before I toss it in the recycle bin!
err.gif


David S.
Nice job on the BB-36!
 
Update on Killer. I warmed up the Hytran as usual using a magnetic heater and while that was warming up I hauled in 3 loads of firewood with my Rodeo, dang I'm going through a LOT of firewood this winter... I had to cut the breather hose off as the barb was not letting it go. I then started it up and drove it to the garage and shut it down. I then removed the magnetic drain plug. I wiped the magnet off on an old tee shirt. There was a bit of small metal flakes on it. I had changed the oil back in the first week in November and there were no metal flakes on it then after a summer of mowing the lawn. So I assume some damage was done.
sad.gif
facepalm.gif


283260.jpg


The oil that came out had some water in it as I suspected there might be. It was all foamy, YUCK! I poured some fresh oil into the fill to hopefully flush out as much of the old oil/water. After the oil sat the foam went away and it looked fairly normal.

283261.jpg


I let it drain while I went off and did some other small outside projects, greased the snowthrower and filled the bird feeders. Then I installed the magnetic drain plug and poured in 3 PINTS of 10w30 synthetic oil. Checked the level on the replacement dipstick that I borrowed from a spare K301 and it was right where it should be. I started it back up and it sounds like it always has. I hear what could be a knock but with the QA42, the windbreaker cab, the headlight panel, hood and the PTO all rattling who knows. I used it to clear some more snow out by my firewood piles and it ran strong as ever. Hopefully all is well with it.
 
Anyone have any luck trying to repair one of these?? I see they are still available but for $111.71 I can do a lot of welding.

I'm thinking cutting the hole in the cone the size of a washer w/the correct size hole and firing up the Lincoln mig.

Am I correct in assuming that the lower weld is factory on the rod and the rest is someones braze slobber attempt at a repair??

283269.jpg


283270.jpg
 
Kraig-
Ugh! Sorry to hear/see what you've found. If that were mine, I would use it again for a heavy snowfall or mowing (get it good and warmed up) then dump that oil and replace with new to get out any contaminants. (I'm betting that's already your plan.)

I wonder what the metal bits are? The rod is aluminum, so it shouldn't be rod/crank stuck to that magnet. It could be rings or cam, but not piston. That's aluminum as well. I'm betting any knock you're hearing is PTO.

Like Dave said, I'd think you're good. Run it and love it for the awesome rig that it is.

<font size="-2">(I could remind you that an 82-series doesn't have PTO knock, but that would be downright mean at a time like this.)</font>
roflol.gif
 
Art, yes I plan to do an oil change after the next hard use, and with the way this winter is going it shouldn't be long before I need to use it again. I should have bought enough oil to do a second change or better yet I should have put plain old 10w30 in it instead of the expensive synthetic stuff and cleared some snow out in the field. After I get more synthetic oil I might just do that rather than wait for the next snow fall.
 
Kraig-
Did you see that Menards has Quaker State Full Synthetic on sale for $2.99 in their latest ad?

I was thinking about stocking up on that for the tractor barn....
 
Art, I did not see that but I will check it out. Thanks!
 
Back
Top