Archive through January 30, 2010

[dfitzgerald]

If I was to use the flywheel and coooling tin from a 10 horse K241 on my 16 horse K341 will the smaller flywheel cool the bigger engine ? I might want to mow with this tractor and I dont want it to run hot. thanks danny

 

[dross]

Ryan M, pulling an empty hay rack around the yard is just stretching it's legs. Throw 140 bales on for a workout, do that on a hill for the amusment park option.

 

[cstouffer]

yeah im new here, i have a 129 and an old wheelhorse i restored,,,,,,,the 71 is down the street from my place,,,,sunk into the dirt, and rusty as heck, but ill post some pics of me with it,,,,,thanx for replies guys!

 

[mstetar]

corey if its a cub its worth it! thats a general rule of thumb i know some of us live by lol

 

[cstouffer]

yeah ur right,,,,im pulling it out of weeds tomorrow around 3,,,,if i can ill post ome pics of the rustbucket,,,,

 

[glippert]

Mornin' all - It's February - by next month we should start to see some warmer temps & start prepping for Travis' Plow Day!

 

[mbounds]

Roger D:
Model #:
142 = CCC code for a Garden Tractor made in 1982
782 = CCC model
399 = Made for and sold by an IH dealer

Serial #:
205 = IH kind code for a Garden Tractor
0585 = IH factory code for a 982
U = Made in the US Louisville plant
703942 = one-up serial number.

For the 1982 model year production began about Oct/Nov 1981, and per CCC production records, with serial # 700,000 in the CCC plant, Brownsville TN, using parts shipped from the by-then-closed IH, Louisville KY, plant.

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[sgarnett]

Hello all, I'm new here. Been working on IHC's since early 60's. I have 2 149's, and put new points in both. Now when engine gets hot, [it,] the engine, cuts out and sounds like it's trying to lock up. After cooling down they will start and run perfect until they get hot. What's the deal?

 

[rdeephouse]

thanks Myron that was some good info

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jeff B., regarding halogen lights. I believe the ones listed in the FAQ have been discontinues. Back in December someone else also had trouble finding them, HERE is a link to that discussion, it's near the bottom of the page.

Thaddeus, WELCOME!

Sounds like you could have a bad condenser, a bad coil or a sticking exhaust valve. Or you have the timing off and they are overheating. Recheck the points gap.

 

[digger]

Thaddeus G.
It could be a sticking valve, bad coil, or a bad condenser.
Are your running Marvel Mystery Oil?
If not, you really should be, it works wonders on these old Kohler engines.
Personally, I change the coil out first.

 

[digger]

Lyle B.
It's 10 1/8" outside and 9 1/8" inside.
Sleeve hitch adapters are the same for all Cubs.

 

[mbounds]

Roger D...
I see I made a typo;

The IH factory code 0585 should read: for a <u>7</u>82 NOT 982.

Sorry 'bout that...

Myron B

 

[rdeephouse]

any one ever make there own lift arm for a sleeve hitch?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie, note that Thaddeus just replaced the points in both of his 149s and they both now cut out when they get hot, sounds to me like the timing is off causing them to overheat. Or something isn't connected correctly.

.

Thaddeus, just to be safe, recheck the wire connections and the points gap. It's odd that both would exhibit the same problem. If you connected something wrong, perhaps the coil or condenser, they could overheat and fail.

 

[jdiederichs]

On occasion breaker points will stick open when the engine gets hot, due to the point's pivot bushing swelling. Are these aftermarket points or actual Kohler parts? Some aftermarket points are more prone to sticking for the reason I mentioned.
Since they were recently changed, and the problem occurred afterwards, I would look into this possibility. Still have a set of the old points? If so swap one set back and try that.

 

[tteague]

Hey yall, can I put a cylinder head from a 149 on my 147? Someone told me the 149 heads are better due to the spark plug being over the exaust valve.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tim, yes, however you will have to modify the heat shield and tin baffle piece over the head. Here's one that's been modified, this is my K301 Killer Kohler that David Kirk built for me. The tin and heat shield were modified by a previous owner. Alternately, you could use the head baffle and heat shield from the 149.

 

[dfrisk]

DAVE R. - You must have had a New Holland baler, 140 bales on a rack. Neighbor had an IH #55 twine baler. I'm sure the bale size is around the internet someplace but I'm thinking about 16-17" tall, 20 in. wide and right around 4 ft long. The racks We had were a full 8 ft wide and 16 ft long, going 4-high only made 72/load. Sometimes We'd get ambitious with Our rack, the backstop was higher, We'd go 5 sometimes 6 high to finish off the day. With bales that size even 90-100 bales was a load for the Super H if there were many hills involved getting to the barn.
If those old IH knotters didn't act up We could still get 1000 bales in a big afternoon with two men and a small boy on the crew. And still have time for chores and a little league BB game.

 

[dross]

Thaddeus, The unique part is you have 2 tractors that are doing the same odd thing. My bet is on the point setting.
Dennis, 4 high, Really? Granted most of the places I bailed at usually didn't have a lot of hills or were very far from the barn. We'd go two across with one length wise, go 6 or 7 high, always had a "tie" across the top.
The racks could go anywhere from 14 to 20ft long. That 140 number was just what I felt safe saying, some were more, some less.