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Archive through January 27, 2011
- Thread starter aschumacher
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
ignore the cargo straps and missing hood. i told it was a Frankenstein monster.
wait until you see where the hood is.
but, that is another post.
so, is it the right thrower, is it hooked up correctly, is the cam stop correct ?
wait until you see where the hood is.
but, that is another post.
so, is it the right thrower, is it hooked up correctly, is the cam stop correct ?
Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) -
i think you misunderstood. your advice seems to be for if the thrower is going too low, mine wont go low enough.
lowest setting is 6" off the ground. linkage appears to be at max.
i think you misunderstood. your advice seems to be for if the thrower is going too low, mine wont go low enough.
lowest setting is 6" off the ground. linkage appears to be at max.
Looks to me like your lift rod is to short, Your lift handle shouldn't go that far forward IMHO.
PS,
Unscrew that cam stop and use it for a door stop!
They are good for mowers, not for throwers!
PS,
Unscrew that cam stop and use it for a door stop!
They are good for mowers, not for throwers!
uh oh. might be time to feel stupid.
while removing the lift rod i noticed the tractor is buried in the snow. rear tires dug a hole while front tires rode up on snow.
which means if i back up...
it is not that funny. i forgot it was sitting on 1' of old snow before i tried to move the 1' of new snow.
i was trying to move the new snow when the rear tires dug a hole in the old snow.
i think i got it now. might have to dig the tractor out first though, to get to solid ground.
while removing the lift rod i noticed the tractor is buried in the snow. rear tires dug a hole while front tires rode up on snow.
which means if i back up...
it is not that funny. i forgot it was sitting on 1' of old snow before i tried to move the 1' of new snow.
i was trying to move the new snow when the rear tires dug a hole in the old snow.
i think i got it now. might have to dig the tractor out first though, to get to solid ground.
CHARLES S - re Bent or wobbling rear wheel. All you really need is the axle shaft. Or maybe even just the wheel itself, but if you say the axle is bent we'll believe you.
Swapping axle shafts in simple, jack up & block rear of tractor off ground, remove rear cover from rearend, spide the axle as far in as possible, remove the retaining ring, kinda looks like a large heavy snapring or Circlip, axle slides out. Insert new axle, reinstall retainer, reinstall rearend cover, refill with Hy-Tran.
And the wide frame parts should fit your 127, as long as you have the same style brakes on both tractors, meaning internal brakes on both or external disc brakes on both.
Swapping axle shafts in simple, jack up & block rear of tractor off ground, remove rear cover from rearend, spide the axle as far in as possible, remove the retaining ring, kinda looks like a large heavy snapring or Circlip, axle slides out. Insert new axle, reinstall retainer, reinstall rearend cover, refill with Hy-Tran.
And the wide frame parts should fit your 127, as long as you have the same style brakes on both tractors, meaning internal brakes on both or external disc brakes on both.
CHRIS P - The driveshaft roll pin I had the most problem with was the one clear up right next to the engine. There's a short coupler with a slot thru it and a solid steel dowel pin was pressed into the driveshaft. Without a hose clamp or ?? around the coupler the pin would wiggle it's self out.
If the driveshaft is still turning with the engine running that pin should be O-K, which means you should pull the center frame cover between the seat/fenders & steering console. Four little screws/bolts. Not a hard repair at all.
If the driveshaft is still turning with the engine running that pin should be O-K, which means you should pull the center frame cover between the seat/fenders & steering console. Four little screws/bolts. Not a hard repair at all.
i noticed on my rebuilt engine that im getting a small amount of oil around the breather. its not pouring out but it is noticeable. is this normal? i also notice that the engine smokes a little at startup, well it could be condensation coming out of the exhaust when it is cold, not too sure on that one. once tractor is warm it goes away completely. tractor lights off instantly when starting, has plenty of power, and doesn't seem to burn too much if any oil. i probably have 4 hours on the rebuild maybe a little more. the engine was honed at a lawnmower shop, he did all of the measurements and assured me that everything was right. he told me it only required a hone and didnt need to be bored. i did the assembly.
im not too worried, just wanted your opinions. is a some oil out of the breather normal, especially in the cold temps with the 5w30 winter grade oil? i noticed that kirk's engines sells a valve cover with a piece of hose for this reason. i might buy one eventually.
im not too worried, just wanted your opinions. is a some oil out of the breather normal, especially in the cold temps with the 5w30 winter grade oil? i noticed that kirk's engines sells a valve cover with a piece of hose for this reason. i might buy one eventually.
Well we got all of 4" and then big wet flakes and then rain.I scraped it off with the blade because the temps will go down to freezing later and I don`t want that all froze on the drive.Friday will be Cub day for me , I have three wheels to sand and prime,two for the 125 and one for the 100 that had a leak. That chloride is not going back in
.
frank snerd
I looked at your post and have to agree with Scott T, those tires look to large and that could keep you from getting the blower down when you need it. And I have to ask
,What are the two ratchet straps for??? Do you have some front axel play or is that how you are holding down the seat ??
Charles Sullivan
Parts look up tells me a 127 takes a IH 531180 R2 axle and a 129 and 149 use the same axle .
Chris Pertschi
You should be able with the tractor running look under the rear fenders and see if the shaft is turning on the hydro pump. You can take of the cover where Denny said and see the pin is in item 4 next to the flex disk , the coupler. If it spins there the use vice grips to remove the broken end and then align it so you can get all the rolled pin out.
frank snerd
I looked at your post and have to agree with Scott T, those tires look to large and that could keep you from getting the blower down when you need it. And I have to ask
Charles Sullivan
Parts look up tells me a 127 takes a IH 531180 R2 axle and a 129 and 149 use the same axle .
Chris Pertschi
You should be able with the tractor running look under the rear fenders and see if the shaft is turning on the hydro pump. You can take of the cover where Denny said and see the pin is in item 4 next to the flex disk , the coupler. If it spins there the use vice grips to remove the broken end and then align it so you can get all the rolled pin out.
andrew dononhue
After you get a few hrs on that new rebuild you will find it will stop blowing out the breather and somke a little at start up. My 129 engine after a rebuild cleared it self up at around 25 hrs. It really depends on if the new rebuild is worked or is just running. I used a drag to work mine to get the rings seated. The 129 has a loader on it and has lots of power and does not smoke but will blow steam out the breather when the oil gets hot.condensation in the oil will go out the breather when the oil gets hot.
OH a new one lol Charlies favorite !
After you get a few hrs on that new rebuild you will find it will stop blowing out the breather and somke a little at start up. My 129 engine after a rebuild cleared it self up at around 25 hrs. It really depends on if the new rebuild is worked or is just running. I used a drag to work mine to get the rings seated. The 129 has a loader on it and has lots of power and does not smoke but will blow steam out the breather when the oil gets hot.condensation in the oil will go out the breather when the oil gets hot.
OH a new one lol Charlies favorite !
