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Archive through January 25, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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bjamison

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Dec 3, 2005
Messages
812
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Binder 1650
Quick question - Electric lift: Are there any limit switches stop the lift when fully extended or retracted? What about an intermediate stop - is there a way to hit the same spot every time? How do you "float" an implement with the electric lift? Are the electric lifts reliable?
 
Art ;thanks for that info . I will take it apart and check to see if that is my problem.
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Bill-An electric lift would use the same style stop used on a narrow frame manual lift or the hydro lift.

As far as being reliable, I've heard mixed results. I hear some people love them and some people hate them. I'm currently in the middle right now because I have an electric lift setup that isn't working quite right.
 
Don T,
If ytou have the original type "T" handle shut off sometime a few wraps of fine string will fix-R-up.
 
I think I found where Santa's packing elves work in their off-season:
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Don T.: I heard from Greg M.. He said it was so cold over there that he saw a crow towing a seagull to try to get it started.
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Don t: Thanks for the show and tell about what happens in a towed hydro. I can see now how the ring gear turning the pinion shaft that turns the reduction gear would make the output shaft of the hydro spin very fast and how quickly heat would build up. Makes a lot of sense.

Back to my hydro. Until I get into it I don't know for sure that it is the charge pump that is causing my problem. But assuming it is it seems I could just R&R the charge pump (Fig.6 shown below) rather than doing the whole hydro unit as Harry suggests. The rotor, housing and charge plate look like the only parts I'd need besides seals and gaskets. I've also already done the trunnion repair, new fluid, filter, etc. on my unit and aside from the thumping noise it works perfectly and doesn't leak.
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Bill - on the electric lift, can't speak to their reliability but mine has been working since 1970. Just tore it down and not much to it. Aside from a couple gears and two bearings there doesn't seem like much to go wrong. The wiring on the motor looked new and the magnets were plenty good. I would suggest being careful taking the top of the motor off as it's tricky getting the springs, magnets, etc. back in place. Not sure this helps but good luck nonetheless.
 
Quick question - are the fenders and fiberglass dash on an 86 interchangeable with those for a 127?
 
Tom ; Charlie send me some rubber tubing some years ago , that I think you remove the valve and place the ruber piece of vacume line over the end and reinstall the tap.Got a few here in my Boxes lol.

Frank; you went all out ! I do like the point savers and have two here not installed YET lol.


Richard ; A new seal and 40$ should get you running.You need a parts tractor , sometimes parts can be found or borrowed from a non runner.

That is how I learned .They don`t have to all run the same day.
 
Don: I think one of this site's sponsors noticed the same thing about the carburetor bowls that Art did. Dave Kirk sells a cadmium plated STEEL float bowl for the Carter/Kohler carburetors. I don't know if the product is exclusively his, it may be available from some of our other sponsors as well, but I've only noticed it on his site. His price for the part seems very reasonable. The aluminum on the original ones is so thin and malleable, that even when I bend it back as Art describes, I'm still not sure that it will hold up.

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Just click Kirk logo at the top of this page and scroll down until you find the picture above.
 
Quick question - hp vs 19T vs mowing decks

So my 126 from what I can tell by reading through the archives and comparing the manual has a 19T second gear and that gives me a 3.9 MPH speed.

Question is - how does this speed work out with a 48 inch deck (which I have with this tractor) or a 42 inch deck (which I might would snag if I found one in decent shape). The engine in my 126 is a 12 hp engine.

Not to hit the hornets nest - but how do the 42/48 triangular decks compare from a quality of cut to the later 44 and 50 inch decks? Can a 44 inch deck fit on a 1x6/7 tractor?
 
Bill-

Here is my thoughts on the mower decks.

Dad's 125 has a triangular 48" mowing deck (12 hp. motor) that we've used for years and have no problems. One has to slow some in very thick long grass to let the engine catch up, but the quality of cut has always been suburb. Compare that to the 50" that he has on his 782 that we've also mowed with; the 50" mower does a good job, but IMO the 48" triangular one always has done better. Have never tried the 48" triangular one on the 782 and vise versa. I use a triangular 48" on my 147 and am impressed with the quality of cut every time. If it were me, I go with the 48"
 
Quick Answer, at last check Gator Blades weren't available for the 42" and 48" decks but are for the 44" and 50". Personaly I like the Gators much more than the OEM blades. Whether you can put a 44" on a narrow frame is really pretty much up to you tool wise and dedication. (fabrication, welder etc.)
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Bill: Quick Answer: Your mileage may vary.

Opinions on the 19T 2nd gear vary widely. Dennis Frisk maintains that he needs slower 2nd gear as found the earlier units to get a nice cut with a gear drive; Steve "Mr. Plow" Blunier complains that he just can't cut grass moving that slow (guess he would rather be plowing
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I've gotten nice cuts with the triangular decks, but I find they tend to scalp a bit on the corners. However, because my deck was designed for a narrow frame, I have never been able to install the rear guide wheels when its installed on my wide frame --so I'm not really giving it a fair test. I also think that the triangular decks are a bit more challenging to set up, the larger center blade can easily get bent (mine wasn't straight from the dealer --go figure!) and the deck has to be level or you will find a higher/lower center cut. I know I struggled with my 42" before I finally got it cutting well.

Again, according to "Mr. Plow" Blunier, who has truly made a science of setting up a mowing deck (he wrote up the FAQ on the topic), the triangular decks, especially the 48" version, can get warped in use and require a BFH or other "articles of persuasion" to bring everything into alignment.

The most important thing about these decks I learned from Kraig McConaughey. Grease them before every use. It may sound like over kill, but I really think he's on to something.

Oh well, I guess my answer wasn't as quick as I thought.
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I don't completely agree with Don's assessment of what happens when a hydro is towed. Several years ago I got a parts tractor in which the rear wheels would not turn together in the same direction. When I removed the pump, all of the pistons were out of the motor cylinder block. I took a picture and sent it along to work with my Dad, who at the time worked for the aviation division of Sundstrand (The hydro unit in our CCs is likely developed from jet engine constant-speed drives, as the parts inside are nearly identical) and he showed it to one of the engineers, who explained that is what happens when the motor turns faster than the pump. I'm guessing that when the motor cylinder block is turned without the valves releasing, it may be that a vacuum is developed in each piston on the motor cylinder block since it's being forced to work backwards of normal operation. This sucks the pistons away from the swash plate, so the next time the tractor is started, the slippers aren't touching the swash plate, and....shrapnel.
 
Another word on mower decks- Dad's 50" tends to knock down grass, especially on turns, and I don't see that with his 48" triangular one. I agree; your mileage will vary.
 
OH BOY! The GREAT Mower deck debate and MOWING SPEED debate!

Yes, in my humble opinion the 19T 2nd is a little too fast to mow with in many conditions. When I had the 10 HP K241 in my 72 I mowed some places in 2nd, and it did O-K, but it mowed better in 1st, more even consistent cut. Back years ago when I was running the K161 or 181 powered 70 I mowed a lot in the 16T 2nd gear, 3.2 MPH. Even now with my 982 & 50C deck I only mow around 3 MPH. I've added a roller under the housing to support the rear of the deck and it does a good job of "Striping" the lawn when I mow, plus it's impossible to scalp the yard. I've had the spherical gauge wheel kit in the shop for five+ years and haven't felt the need to weld it on yet.

I've made some modifications to my 38" deck so it mows better, distributes clippings better, also leveled out the blades to within less than 1/16th of an inch, installed a heavy-duty baffle 2" tall within 1/8th inch of the blade tips, and radiused the left side of the mower so there's about 1/8th inch clearance between the blade tip and inside of the rounded mower housing, also enlarged the discharge chute. It mows as good as a 44 or 50 inch deck.

I have no experience with a 48" deck. Too many places in my yard where anything much wider than my 38" deck won't fit which adds trimming time with the weed-eater with no added seat time. Plus I have some small sink holes from trees & bushes that I've cut down and hitting a six inch deep hole at 3-4 MPH would break a 3/4" dia frt spindle, heck, probably a 1" spindle too. I used to over-lap from pass-to-pass but now I don't. At the slower speeds, 1st in the 72, 2.3 MPH the mower picks up the grass that's been pushed down by the frt wheels better so I can mow a wider swath. If the grass is damp the grass doesn't stand back up near as well as it does when dry. Before I start the CC I walk through the yard, especially the shady spots and if the toes of my boots get damp I don't mow. If I have to mow wet grass, then I'll over-lap and mow slower so the grass gets cut more even.

I also alternate mowing patterns every time I mow. I mow one way the first time, then 90 degrees to that pattern the second time, then 45 degrees one way the next, then 90 degrees to the last way the nest time. I think that makes a LOT of difference in getting a nice even cut on the yard throughout the summer. If you mow the same pattern every time you set up compaction zones in the yard. I find it even helps to switch up mower deck widths a couple times a season, it gets your tractor wheels running in different tracks as well.

Ohhhh and FWIW, I told a guy to put Hy-Tran in his jd #318 tranny this morning.
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What a place we share!
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If I can help ( 1 ) one Cub guy get out of his tractor what it should do, I`am happy. even though there are many guys here on this site that can tell how it is done. I tend toward home work lol. If you did it you won`t have to ask to many questions.
 
Terry D, Checked my electric lift motor and the long screws just go into the bottom housing.
 
What causes a motor to hiccup while running? IE a 14 HP kohler in a 147 running 93 octane gas. No problems starting, or running smoothly, but twice tonight (while moving snow) the motor did a blip- a hiccup, stutter, what have you, then ran just fine. Crud in the tank getting to the engine or something? Thanks
 

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