Archive through January 25, 2007

[gplaine]

i ve got a bit of a situation here on my 104 front clutch ,well ya see i got all those darn set screws out.....all but the last 2 which of course stripped the allen head on me soo now im tryin to drill this out with a titanium bit but it just doesnt seem to do much drillin' ..any help or other methods out there ,sure would like a bit of help .
thnx freezin in canada.

 

[cslayton]

Well I tried to plow snow tonight,we had 2" of snow when i left for work this morning,when i got home we had less than an inch,It had all blown away.Oh well at least I finished restoring my tiller,maybe I should start restoring the snowblower??Anyways,here's some before and after pictures of my #1 tiller

 

[rbedell]

Bruce N:

According to the CPE-2 Parts Manual, this is the 48" deck in question..

Now, from what I can see, it is the same 48" deck, but can use either the older style of bearings is outlined in the exploded cut out (items 18, 19, 28-32) OR could come with the one piece bearing as indicated in items 42-46. That deck would have a tag of 48U1115.

So, in answer to your question, yes they will interchange. NOW....the only thing I can think of is, there maybe a "height" issue with regards to the pulleys up from the deck, if you intermingle bearing styles. Something you might want to check.

 

[rbedell]

Gary L:

Here are breakdowns for the front axles. As you can see, they have two different part numbers. I think you could install a NF axle on a WF cub, BUT I believe the "stance" of the axles are different. This would require adapting procedures.
As a suggestion, I have seen numerous good used axles on the Auction Sites that could be had for as little as $25.00, that you may want to consider.

 

[eburton]

Think I finally found the info needed for 1A tiller to 1650. Steve B. and Wild Bill posted info August 15, 2006.
Thanks.

 

[kweaver]

Greg P - you didn't say if you have the PTO off the engine or not but if you don't you can yank it off even with the set scews in. That'll at least give you the option of having it on the bench to work on it. Don't try to pry it off from behind the generator belt pulley cause it'll bend. Look at the pic in the FAQ of how I had it gripped with a gear puller. Something like that with a slide hammer weight will pop it off. (that was the #2 tool I started working on) I've not used the Ti bits b4 but carbide is my choice. A punch if you're really mad, or take it where they can do EDM stud burnout as last resort.

And as a side note: Use Anti-Seize when replacing.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Chris S., nice job on the tiller!

Jeff B.,

 

[rwilke]

Bob F.,

The amount of weight needed to keep the wheels on your CC100 (that's what you have, correct?) from spinning on concrete will depend on how much snow you're trying to push with your blade, the weight of the operator, the width & diameter of your tires, the condition that your engine is in (amount of HP being produced), the amount of traction on the surface (is the concrete driveway 'dry' & only covered with powdery snow -or- is there a layer of packed snow/ice on the concrete to produce a slick layer to try to get traction on), the number of cross-chains on your tire chain set (I've seen some sets with only four cross-chains and other sets with upwards of 20+ cross-chains).... all those factors and more will play a part in whether or not your wheels will spin when snow plowing. It all depends; you may need to experiment some for your situation. Realize too that your 100 isn't the heaviest nor highest HP CC built, so when comparing notes, make it "apples to apples".

I would recommend that you do some research in the archives to determine if you're willing to 'load' your tires with either a brine or RV antifreeze solution (if you do, I'd suggest using inner tubes for loading) and/or locate and secure some wheel weights to mount on the inside and outside of the rims for starters.

As you have probably seen from other examples on these pages, most folks feel that 'the more weight, the better' so adding 200-lbs to your tractor would be a good beginning effort.

In the meantime, if you simply plow less snow at one time, such as only push a 1/2 blade width, this reduces the amount of snow being pushed, thus will reduce the likelihood of spinning your tires and causing the chains to scratch your concrete drive.
Good Luck!
Ryan W.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Anthony, here's what that safety switch spring clip 'thingy'

should look like. I'll try to get this one off Saturday without breaking it. If I'm successful I'll drop it in the mail on Monday.

 

[jharvey]

Gary L.
My 109 wears a 106 front axle setup so I'm sure the 122 will work also. I only paid $10 for the 106 assy at a flea market so beware of paying $75. The stance is narrower and that's the reason I did the swap. The drag link arm assy will have to be shortened though. It will come into contact with the frame and or mule drive. I just cut mine off and re drilled the hole. It now requires more steering effort but is more reponsive. JH
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