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Archive through January 24, 2011
- Thread starter digger
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Actually I think all that RAW power is creating a vortex and directing that snow up the chute so fast, it's causing a blur! Yea that's it!!!!!!
It must be knee deep in here today lol.I spent an hr on this confuser looking for a replacement tire for my 125 rears 23-8.5-12 and can`t find much. I hate all the stupid links you get when you do a search
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What do you all use ?
What do you all use ?
nbextermueller
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 18, 2007
- Messages
- 909
- displayname
- Nic Bextermueller
All this talk about Super Steer and Power Steering has got my creative juices flowing again! I've been soooo close to picking up some PS systems here more than once and couldn't pull the trigger. If there was one for a half way decent price today, I'd probably get it. Same as a S/S system. My 782 would be awesome with that stuff.
On a side note. I've decided to also keep an eye out for 50" snow plow and power angle. Which of course leads to the fact that I need the valve to operate the power angle and the lines running to the front. I should probably just buy the 982 over in the for sale section and be done with it. But my wife would kill me if I brought home another tractor... "but honey, these are so rare!" he he he.
Man, just when you start to get happy with your current state, you guys start it all over again. What a great site, and thanks Charlie for all the work you do.
Nic Bextermueller
Nice to know there is some guys with the fever out there
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I hope Charlie is feeling better soon , A night on the throne can tell you a few things lol. 1. is change your diet 2. Stay away from where you got it.
Nice to know there is some guys with the fever out there
I hope Charlie is feeling better soon , A night on the throne can tell you a few things lol. 1. is change your diet 2. Stay away from where you got it.
jerry harvey "Nines are wild"
I would love to get new tires with the same print that was on the 125 when it was made. That would be great .I have to make up my mind soon , because I will want to mow some grass with this 125 and have to get the same dimensions I think or have an alignment issue with the deck.
I would love to get new tires with the same print that was on the 125 when it was made. That would be great .I have to make up my mind soon , because I will want to mow some grass with this 125 and have to get the same dimensions I think or have an alignment issue with the deck.
jchamberlin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
- Messages
- 1,842
- Location
- Farmville, North Carolina
- displayname
- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" -- Seconding what Donald Tanner has already said, thank you for the lucid explanation of EXACTLY how the steering assembly found on the CC Model 782 is SUPPOSED to work. Upon closer examination today, I can confirm that wear was taking place between the Bolt OD and the Spacer ID. What is worse, when wear starts there, it quickly accelerates on opposite sides of the top and bottom of the bolt. See picture below of RH Spacer & Bolt.
So Charlie is right, the parts need to be replaced. Charlie, look out for my order.
I still found the following out-of-round conditions at the spindle holes on the axle. (Dennis, are you listening?) RH Spindle hole measured 0.770" side-to-side and 0.760" front-to-back (0.010" out-of-round) at the top ; 0.761" side-to-side and 0.753" front-to-back (0.008" out-of-round) at the bottom.
LH Spindle Hole measured 0.769" side-to-side and 0.763" front-to-back (0.006" out-of-round) at the top; 0.767" side-to-side and 0.761" front-to-back (0.006" out-of-round again) at the bottom.
The spacer OD, in spots it was not worn, was found to be uniformly 0.750" +/- 0.001". So I'm guessing the original fit called for approximately 0.010" clearance between spacer OD and Axle ID, but that is just a guess.
It is quite reassuring to hear that replacing existing parts will go most of the distance in taking the slop out of the unit.
I cannot however confirm that the castle nut is bottoming out on the threads. Quite the opposite, in fact. In my case, the threads were exposed for a good 1/2" inside the axle which exacerbated wear at the rear of the axle, especially at the bottom of the hole. The use of washers at the bolt's head would only make the situation worse. See photo of Axle Pivot Hole below.
The 3/4" bolt used for my application appears to be a standard 5-1/2" Grade 5 specimen. See photo below comparing the Grade 5 found in the tractor with a standard Grade 8 5-1/2" from Lowes and a 7" Bolt from Home Depot. (Note: 1/2" of overall bolt length is taken up by the head.)
I plan to install the 7" bolt, a Grade 5 unit if I can find one, and trim off the excess. If I must, I will extend the threads down on the bolt with a 3/4"-10 die.
As you might expect, I found wear at the pivot bolt too. At the front side, where the head of the bolt is fitted, I found 0.769" side-to-side and 0.765" top-to-bottom; at the rear where the threads are hitting, it measures 0.746" side-to-side and 0.755" top-to-bottom.
The bolt itself measures 0.743" in spots where it is not worn, but 0.719" at the worst spot near the top of the threads (0.731" at 90 deg. from the worst spot) and 0.737" near the bolt head end.
I don't know what kind of fit would be optimal, but it appears that it could be as tight as 0.003" Any thoughts, Dennis?
Oddly, the pivot appears to be wearing more side-to-side at the front and more up-and-down at its rear.
I'm not sure where all this leaves me. Given your excellent instructions, I don't think I need to bush the spindles. I'm not so sure about the Pivot Bolt. It might be worth a thin bushing to really get it tight. Of course any bushing would require consistent maintenance, that is, greasing the thing every 10 hours as Dennis has cited the service manual.
Steve, again, thanks for giving the matter your excellent attention and presentation. I think everyone learned something.
So Charlie is right, the parts need to be replaced. Charlie, look out for my order.
I still found the following out-of-round conditions at the spindle holes on the axle. (Dennis, are you listening?) RH Spindle hole measured 0.770" side-to-side and 0.760" front-to-back (0.010" out-of-round) at the top ; 0.761" side-to-side and 0.753" front-to-back (0.008" out-of-round) at the bottom.
LH Spindle Hole measured 0.769" side-to-side and 0.763" front-to-back (0.006" out-of-round) at the top; 0.767" side-to-side and 0.761" front-to-back (0.006" out-of-round again) at the bottom.
The spacer OD, in spots it was not worn, was found to be uniformly 0.750" +/- 0.001". So I'm guessing the original fit called for approximately 0.010" clearance between spacer OD and Axle ID, but that is just a guess.
It is quite reassuring to hear that replacing existing parts will go most of the distance in taking the slop out of the unit.
I cannot however confirm that the castle nut is bottoming out on the threads. Quite the opposite, in fact. In my case, the threads were exposed for a good 1/2" inside the axle which exacerbated wear at the rear of the axle, especially at the bottom of the hole. The use of washers at the bolt's head would only make the situation worse. See photo of Axle Pivot Hole below.
The 3/4" bolt used for my application appears to be a standard 5-1/2" Grade 5 specimen. See photo below comparing the Grade 5 found in the tractor with a standard Grade 8 5-1/2" from Lowes and a 7" Bolt from Home Depot. (Note: 1/2" of overall bolt length is taken up by the head.)
I plan to install the 7" bolt, a Grade 5 unit if I can find one, and trim off the excess. If I must, I will extend the threads down on the bolt with a 3/4"-10 die.
As you might expect, I found wear at the pivot bolt too. At the front side, where the head of the bolt is fitted, I found 0.769" side-to-side and 0.765" top-to-bottom; at the rear where the threads are hitting, it measures 0.746" side-to-side and 0.755" top-to-bottom.
The bolt itself measures 0.743" in spots where it is not worn, but 0.719" at the worst spot near the top of the threads (0.731" at 90 deg. from the worst spot) and 0.737" near the bolt head end.
I don't know what kind of fit would be optimal, but it appears that it could be as tight as 0.003" Any thoughts, Dennis?
Oddly, the pivot appears to be wearing more side-to-side at the front and more up-and-down at its rear.
I'm not sure where all this leaves me. Given your excellent instructions, I don't think I need to bush the spindles. I'm not so sure about the Pivot Bolt. It might be worth a thin bushing to really get it tight. Of course any bushing would require consistent maintenance, that is, greasing the thing every 10 hours as Dennis has cited the service manual.
Steve, again, thanks for giving the matter your excellent attention and presentation. I think everyone learned something.
Anyone done this type of upgrade to a cub cadet steering? Basically they are adding a thrust bearing to the bottom side of the front axle.
http://www.weekendfreedommachines.com/discus/messages/335/120601.html?1162644388
http://www.weekendfreedommachines.com/discus/messages/335/120601.html?1162644388
