Archive through January 22, 2014

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Doug Barnett

I like you mod for the brakes off an ATV ; Could you add a few pictures so I can do the same with my 129 loader . It would be great if you could add what ATV you took the brake parts from. You got me real interested in that . I bet it works great. Thanks Don T

 

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[dschwandt]

Anyone have any ideas, sketches, drawings or pictures of an engine stand or fixture one could bolt to the top of a heavy welding table for use in dis and re-assembly of the Kohler engines?

Would be a great project and be much better than rolling the thing around on top of the work bench.

I have a very heavy 3/8" thick X 3'x4' or so welding table that would be great for rebuilds.

I'm thinking some sort of fixture that could be bolted or clamped to one edge and bolt to the PTO end of the block using the tapped holes for the PTO.

 

[kmcconaughey]

David S., I believe a Kohler will bolt onto a regular engine stand via the S/G mounting holes or there's this:

$6 Kohler Engine Rotisserie

 

[dkirk]

Dave S.,

I recommend purchasing a cheap roll-around automotive engine stand from Harbor Freight. These not only support Chevy V-8's but are perfect for Kohlers too. I find that the starter bolt holes on Kohler blocks bolt right up to the mounting plate and this is a very convenient fixturing point as it allows full access to the engine for assembly.

Dave

 

[kmcconaughey]

David K., I almost posted a photo of your stand in my previous post. Say, is that my K301 mounted up to your stand?

Here's a photo showing the mounting side.

 

[dkirk]

Kraig,

I like your suggestion too! By the way, that's your engine shown in the picture.

A couple of years ago, this cheap engine stand supported another air-cooled engine that was a little more exotic than a Kohler. Seems to work fine for everything I've hung on it.

 

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David K and kraig

Thanks guys I have that engine stand and never thought to us the sg holes to mount it. The last engine I rebuild was rolling around on the work bench and that just broke off some heat fins off the top of the block. I must pay attention and do that Mod.

There is a bunch a smart cookies on this site who share.

 

[kshultz]

David,
This is what I saw on ePay a few years ago.
I made one myself and it works well.
I just bolt it to my work bench if I need it and take it off out of the way when I don't.

I can't find any pics of the one I made, but I can get some if you need them.

 

[dfrisk]

DAVE K, KRAIG - First engine SON & I hung from my cheap F&F engine stand was most of a 460 Ford. Didn't break the stand but sure was hard to rotate.

Next engine was my K321 back in '03 till '05, the in '06 the K241 went in it and was finally completed last spring.

It's empty now, but sure would like to bolt a Porsche or even a Duetz in it now.

I need to do a rebuild of the engine in my #1 Snow Mover. It turned 60 years old 2 weeks ago and the cyl. head & oil pan have NEVER been off the block. If Dad had farmed another year we would have ground the valves and put a set of rings in it. Last compression check I did 20+ yrs ago it still had really even compression numbers, just low. But it starts good, idles smooth, and pushes snow just fine. I priced the parts 10-12 yrs ago to rebuild it, EACH piston, sleeve, rings, & wrist pin w/keepers cost what a complete Kohler rebuild costs with all parts & machine work, and there's four sleeves/pistons! Then you still need all the seals, gaskets, and machine work on the head, crank, etc. rebuild the oil pump, hot tank the block, etc. Like to have the rods Magnafluxed too. Been thinking of replacing all the hardware with ARP stuff. I've seen a couple of the same model tractors with ventilated blocks.