Hmmm a few minutes spent at the Parts Lookup website can be fruitful.
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Archive through January 21, 2010
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
STEVE B. - Yeah, I remember PD #1&2, there was a LOT of teaching & learning going on those days!
Wyatt & I went to a IHCC Wisc. PD a couple years later. After We got done with the garden We tried to plow in the "Big Field" but only made about a round. Some of the plows were set just a bit deeper than a CC could follow in! Even an SGT with 26" rear tires runs out of ground clearance eventually.
And speaking of hitch lift capacity, the owner's manual for my 982 says the SGT's cat O 3-pt can lift 400# 12 inches behind the center of the lift links. Not sure how that compares to the Brinley hitch, I seem to remember a comment about them lifting 300# but not sure if that's at the hitch or behind it.
It was REAL easy to get the frt end of My 982 in the air with a few hundred pounds located AT the end of the lift arms. I needed my suitcase weights on the frt of the 982 several times this summer with my dump cart!
Wyatt & I went to a IHCC Wisc. PD a couple years later. After We got done with the garden We tried to plow in the "Big Field" but only made about a round. Some of the plows were set just a bit deeper than a CC could follow in! Even an SGT with 26" rear tires runs out of ground clearance eventually.
And speaking of hitch lift capacity, the owner's manual for my 982 says the SGT's cat O 3-pt can lift 400# 12 inches behind the center of the lift links. Not sure how that compares to the Brinley hitch, I seem to remember a comment about them lifting 300# but not sure if that's at the hitch or behind it.
It was REAL easy to get the frt end of My 982 in the air with a few hundred pounds located AT the end of the lift arms. I needed my suitcase weights on the frt of the 982 several times this summer with my dump cart!
Kraig pretty much answered that question.
Another job well done, I might add!
AND, just in case everyone hasn't noticed.
This place would go to HEdoubleL if he wasn't around to do the great job that he's done for so many years.
I know I APPRECIATE all his time and effort, as well as should you all.
Another job well done, I might add!
AND, just in case everyone hasn't noticed.
This place would go to HEdoubleL if he wasn't around to do the great job that he's done for so many years.
I know I APPRECIATE all his time and effort, as well as should you all.
"Most of us wind up not using the coulters because they clog with trash fairly easily and pull the plow out of the ground. It does a better job with the coulter, but sometimes there's too much trash in the field for them to work."
I always thought the primary purpose of the coulter was to cut the trash ahead of the share. If that's not the case, what's it really for?
Jerry
I always thought the primary purpose of the coulter was to cut the trash ahead of the share. If that's not the case, what's it really for?
Jerry
mgonitzke
Well-known member
It is, but it doesn't do a very good job with that because it isn't notched. A few people on here have made notched coulters and used them and had better results than with the smooth-edged coulter. The OEM one just collects stuff in front of it. The whole plow and everything is so small to begin with, there just isn't as much trash clearance as a larger plow and tractor would have.
Don, I believe Willis is asking for info and assistance on replacing the seal on the PTO end of the crankshaft.
kide
Well-known member
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- Aug 27, 2006
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- Gerry Ide
Willis:
IF you can get the old seal out without pulling the crank, I'm sure you can press a new seal on, using a sleeve over the crank. The Kohler manual specifies removing the crank and then removing the seal from the bearing plate and block....I'd review the seal seating recommendations in the Kohler repair manual (I'm sure you've found the link in the Cubfaqs and downloaded it....)
IF you can get the old seal out without pulling the crank, I'm sure you can press a new seal on, using a sleeve over the crank. The Kohler manual specifies removing the crank and then removing the seal from the bearing plate and block....I'd review the seal seating recommendations in the Kohler repair manual (I'm sure you've found the link in the Cubfaqs and downloaded it....)
Since there's been a lot of "plow talk" I have a harrow question. I got this little harrow with several pieces in a swap. It doesn't have a tag anywhere and I just want to know if it is a Brinly. If not, does anyone know what make it is? It is missing one disc and I'm hoping to put it to work this spring.
Thanks to any and all...Wayne
Thanks to any and all...Wayne
Art, Kraig, Charlie,
On the adaptors. the top ones are axle extensions for a Farmall Cub as Kraig said. I believe the bottom ones are for use with a specific Woods mower when used on a numbered LoBoy (154, 185, 175) with the wide turf tires. The numbered LoBoys with those wheels/tires have a spacer about 2" thick already, but need the additional 1/2" or so Woods apacer to clear the deck. I had to use both the 2" spacers and the Woods spacers when I built the Orchard 100 so I could get my, uhhhh, back pockets down between the fenders.
On the adaptors. the top ones are axle extensions for a Farmall Cub as Kraig said. I believe the bottom ones are for use with a specific Woods mower when used on a numbered LoBoy (154, 185, 175) with the wide turf tires. The numbered LoBoys with those wheels/tires have a spacer about 2" thick already, but need the additional 1/2" or so Woods apacer to clear the deck. I had to use both the 2" spacers and the Woods spacers when I built the Orchard 100 so I could get my, uhhhh, back pockets down between the fenders.
Thanks Kendell , I did find a seal number. Later Don T
Willis Hecht
kh-235631 but it must be looked up by spec number, this might not be the right number you will have to go to parts look up and see what you need.
Supper is serving .
Willis Hecht
kh-235631 but it must be looked up by spec number, this might not be the right number you will have to go to parts look up and see what you need.
Supper is serving .
JERRY M. - Matt's correct, Several people here, namely Steve B. (Mr. PLOW), Wyatt Compton, and I think Art Atay, and maybe several others have modified Brinley plows to work better in high trash conditions. They've knotched the coulters, moved them forward, made scale-sized cover boards, and they can actually run in standing corn stalks if they want to.
A un-modified Brinley will handle chopped bean straw, chopped with the straw chopper on the back of the combine. But the whole plow frame just isn't big enough to handle a lot of trash. The last plows made by IHC in Canton had something over 30 inches of distance under the beam and between the bottoms. The whole Brinley plow isn't that big. The last plows IH made have the reputation of being some of the best moldboard plows ever made, the 710, 720, & 735 semi-mounted auto-reset plows were the most popular plows ever made before no-till became the way farming was done.
Having learned how to plow with an IH #8 3-14" plow behind a Super M-TA I know way too much about digging trash out of a plugged-up plow. In order to plow corn stalks from 100-120 bushel/acre corn You had to chop the stalks, and disc them at least once if not twice, 2-3 more trips over the ground. Letting them "Winter", get beat down by snow, wind, & rain from Nov. till April helped but didn't stop all the plugging. Dad tried every type of rolling coulter available and the knotched coulters worked the best. He also tried larger smooth coulters, rippled coulters, and concave coulters shaped like a disc blade.
The owner's and set-up manuals for IH plows gave pretty good starting suggestions for plow set-up. The coulters needed to run about half the depth of the plows, and just outside the side of the moldboard. A BIG cresant wrench, 2# ball peen hammer & a putty knife should be Your constant companion when starting to plow with any tractor/plow combination. And if You can't see Your reflection when looking at the moldboard of a plow You don't stand a chance of getting the bottom to scour, it'll pull REALLY hard. I always either smear grease on the whole plow bottom & coulter or spray a coat of IH Till-Coat on the bottom when I take my plow off. Makes it much easier to scour next time.
A un-modified Brinley will handle chopped bean straw, chopped with the straw chopper on the back of the combine. But the whole plow frame just isn't big enough to handle a lot of trash. The last plows made by IHC in Canton had something over 30 inches of distance under the beam and between the bottoms. The whole Brinley plow isn't that big. The last plows IH made have the reputation of being some of the best moldboard plows ever made, the 710, 720, & 735 semi-mounted auto-reset plows were the most popular plows ever made before no-till became the way farming was done.
Having learned how to plow with an IH #8 3-14" plow behind a Super M-TA I know way too much about digging trash out of a plugged-up plow. In order to plow corn stalks from 100-120 bushel/acre corn You had to chop the stalks, and disc them at least once if not twice, 2-3 more trips over the ground. Letting them "Winter", get beat down by snow, wind, & rain from Nov. till April helped but didn't stop all the plugging. Dad tried every type of rolling coulter available and the knotched coulters worked the best. He also tried larger smooth coulters, rippled coulters, and concave coulters shaped like a disc blade.
The owner's and set-up manuals for IH plows gave pretty good starting suggestions for plow set-up. The coulters needed to run about half the depth of the plows, and just outside the side of the moldboard. A BIG cresant wrench, 2# ball peen hammer & a putty knife should be Your constant companion when starting to plow with any tractor/plow combination. And if You can't see Your reflection when looking at the moldboard of a plow You don't stand a chance of getting the bottom to scour, it'll pull REALLY hard. I always either smear grease on the whole plow bottom & coulter or spray a coat of IH Till-Coat on the bottom when I take my plow off. Makes it much easier to scour next time.
Denny's right. A Brinly can be made to work in some pretty heavy trash. I think one of the best mods, Steve came up with. He re-drilled the sleeve hitch attachment of the plow so that the sleeve hitch pin didn't drag on the ground and adds more clearance between the moldboard face and the beam of the plow. It makes a night & day difference.
glippert
Well-known member
Wyatt -
You said: "I think one of the best mods, Steve came up with. He re-drilled the sleeve hitch attachment of the plow so that the sleeve hitch pin didn't drag on the ground and adds more clearance between the moldboard face and the beam of the plow."
I don't recall seeing that and can't visualize it. Do you happen to have a picture?
You said: "I think one of the best mods, Steve came up with. He re-drilled the sleeve hitch attachment of the plow so that the sleeve hitch pin didn't drag on the ground and adds more clearance between the moldboard face and the beam of the plow."
I don't recall seeing that and can't visualize it. Do you happen to have a picture?
elamott
Well-known member
I thought I would add some discussion on the coulters. I used to plow for my brothers and brother in law. (This is back many years ago) My brothers had IH plows and I didn't have much problems. The IH plows seem to have more clearance which allowed the trash to roll over. One year I helped my brother in law. He had the green one and old dull coulters. I think that I had to stop about every 200 feet to unblock the plow. I was getting so upset that I could have cut the plow up in little pieces. I told him that I would not help him again until he put on new coulters. He put on some notched ones and it did help. Some moments are never forgotten.
Have a great day gentlemen.
Earl LaMott
Have a great day gentlemen.
Earl LaMott
glippert
Well-known member
Having asked for a picture, I realize that if there is one, it was probably posted in the past. And that reminded me that I need some help with searching the archives. After typing in my search terms, etc, the results come back (lots of results!) with the search terms highlighted. But when I select one of them it just goes to a page containing that entry, but it's not highlighted on that page, so I have a hard time finding it. (The biggest "problem" is that while skimming through the page, looking for my item, I get sidetracked with all kinds of other info that catches my eye!)
So my question is: Is there a method, technique, setting, etc, that will take me directly from the search results to the corresponding post on the page it came from? Or cause the results to be highlighted?
So my question is: Is there a method, technique, setting, etc, that will take me directly from the search results to the corresponding post on the page it came from? Or cause the results to be highlighted?
