• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through January 20, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
i ordered the deck pan. i had to put it on a credit card, but i will have paid that off and will still have the deck/tractor years later. it will be worth it. its brand new and in the box. i paid 550 plus shipping.i did call gottmetal and they told me that they have a difficult time making a deck if they dont have the original. they also told me that they probably cannot beat that price, even though it wasn't cheap. so in other words i have a brand new 40 year old deck on the way. its a pan so im going to have to mount all of my hardware and bearings in it. it seems that all of that stuff i have is good. i will only need a belt.

so is there something i can coat the bottom of the deck pan to prevent rust? how about slip-plate?
 
12HP question. OK I dragged home a 1250 not running. Cleaned the points, carb and gave it a turn. at firts almost no barking. Did a Compression test 30PSI, opened the breather backed off both valve adjusters, came up to 60PSI. Will run at idle ok but if you rev her up she pits and bucks a bunch. I can see the carb blowing back out gas mist. Tested the hydro seemed ok lift worked good. To me it sounds like a valve issue??
 
Wayne-
It sounds like you're timing may be off on that tractor. Did you check the point gap? (or the "points push rod" could be worn.)
 
Denny,

Gotcha......but who runs their 982 at 3200/3400 rpm no load? I know dad's are both a nice solid 3600 plus, but not over 3700
happy.gif
happy.gif
happy.gif
 
STEVE - My wonderful Onan has the Governor plague they discuss over across the street.... since that brand of tractor used a WHOLE lot more Onan's than IH/CC ever did.

I don't really know what mine runs at, it's like it really dosn't even have a governor. I suppose I normally run 3000-3500 with almost constant adjustments.

The collective group over "there" did come up with a good low cost permanent FIX for the governor problem. Right now the plan is to pull the engine & "FIX" the governor this spring. Plus a general clean-up, lube the starter.... Last time I started it the starter didn't engage the flywheel for the first time Ever on me. It engaged the second time, but I want to head that off.
 
Denny,

Dad's both hunt at mid throttle, but settle in nicely under a load...and PULL!!! Ignition systems seem to be the big issue on his.
 
other than point gap not much can be done about timing correct? I am thinking intake valve is leaking. {anyone care to add} It seems the crab is getting air flow both ways causing it to spit. At idle perhaps the air volume is not causing an issue. I know the engine has ACR, however my 1200 has 120 PSI while this one is 30 to 50PSI.
 
STEVE - I'm not found of the points location on the Onan either. Years ago I made the first pass across the yard mowing, and while turning around it died...stopped just like I turned the key off. I screwed around with it maybe ten minutes... was about as far away from the shop as I could get. Gave up, got the 72 out and mowed. That night I s-l-o-w-l-y towed it to the wife's garage when it wouldn't start. Next morning it started and ran long enough to limp to the shop. No spark. I pulled the points, they looked like they'd been dipped in used 90W gear oil! The engine had maybe 125 hours on the rebuild then! Cleaned the points, reinstalled them, ran fine for about another hundred hours. And they stayed cleaner but the gap closed up. I can tell they're about ready to be set again. I understand there IS a timing mark on the flywheel.... you just have to remove the engine from the tractor and remove some tinwork to see it!
bash.gif


I agree, they PULL.... Kinda like an 806 GAS. Last fall I was mowing the very back of my yard, hadn't mowed it for a month or more. Grass was well over a foot high, I wasn't going real fast, just creeping watching behind me to make sure it was mowing good. Engine wasn't really laboring.... I look ahead at a cloud of BLUE smoke. Blue mule drive belt smoke. As soon as I stopped moving the smoke stopped. I burned over a gallon of gas mowing this little odd-shaped area about 100 ft X 100 ft! Just like an 806-G would have done!
lol.gif


Some day I'll put one of Dave Kirk's Point-Savers & coils on it, plus one of his tach's. It's a "Keeper", and it's
ihrotate.gif
red!
 
You guys out there that are having trouble removing steering wheels I thought I would share my experience. I estimate I must have removed steering wheels at least 20 times with no problem and some of my projects were quite rusty. All CUB CADETS by the way. I purchased one of those bolt/nut welded together and it always worked well. I always soak the nut on the steering column with PB Blaster for at least 2 days. Every time I go to my shop I give it a fresh soak. Oh, by the way it was only -13 degrees here in central WI. Wind chill was -30 degrees. Could be worse.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top