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Archive through January 18, 2014
- Thread starter drglinski
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
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- Binder 1650
Don T - that looks great, just what I was thinking, only I'd make the hole in the cover span from the dash tower to the seat pan.
Quick question - if you put a creeper between the engine and hydro tranny, would you have a two speed gear drive hydro.....
Quick question - if you put a creeper between the engine and hydro tranny, would you have a two speed gear drive hydro.....
I also think its a bad idea to put a cover in the narrow frames. Probably already been said, but what do you really need to service back there? NOTHING. The spirol pins used don't break that often, and if you have the right punch to fit in the creeper slot, the pins can be easily removed. If it has a creeper, then pull the deck off or lift up the tractor to work on it. It is purely a lazy man's way of trying to fix a problem.
I guess if one wants a removeable cover, again, like it's been said, get a WIDE FRAME.
I guess if one wants a removeable cover, again, like it's been said, get a WIDE FRAME.
BILL J. - Creeper in a hydro would be a whiny s-l-o-w moving hydro that marks it's territory. IF it would move at all, top speed would be about 2 MPH. Creeper is 4:1 reduction, so the hydro would act like the engine was idling @ 900 RPM when running wide open.
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Bill J. Ford and the bigger Massey Ferguson garden tractors (MF14 and 16) had two speed hydros. I wish that I could find/have the room for one of them just to try out that two speed hydro. You'd have to do a search to see how much reduction they had.
Also, one day when the weather gives me a chance to get back in the garage I'll take a picture of how the PO modified Clarence(102) side frame just a little bit to install a new pipn into the driveshaft. You really don't notice it unless you look.
Also, one day when the weather gives me a chance to get back in the garage I'll take a picture of how the PO modified Clarence(102) side frame just a little bit to install a new pipn into the driveshaft. You really don't notice it unless you look.
I don't know what the big deal is with getting out spirol/roll pins. I use a air chisel with one point/bit the size of the spirol/roll pin. Beats the hell out pounding the crap out if it and rounding it over. One Pffftttt and it's out. DONE!
Marlin. My cases have a two speed transaxle but their hydraulic drive so their isn't a whole lot of speed selection it's almost like it only can go two speeds. I thing JD used a two speed transaxle on some of their hydros also.
mfrade
Well-known member
So Tom... I guess that makes you a "one "N" done?!?!?!
BWAAAAhahahahahaha
BWAAAAhahahahahaha
mfrade
Well-known member
Just couldn't resist...
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It has been an interesting ride over the past few years - diverging out of my only brand of garden tractors over the past, Wheelhorse, to sample some other old iron tractors such as Simplicity and IH Cub Cadets.
One thing common with ALL of these brands is they are quality tractors and well built. I would recommend anyone of them to anyone in need of a garden tractor, especially vs what's on the market today. For me though, none of these tractors in my fleet are collectors - none. They are workers with a purpose and if they can't get the job done, they are sold, parted or hauled to the recycler. Maybe when I retire and have more time on my hands, I might take one and make it a 100 point show piece.
So having spent a goodly amount of time with Wheelhorse, Simplicity and IH Cub Cadets, I can also tell you they ALL have a few bad design quirk that found their way into the design. We read all the time about the QL and iso mounts, etc. As much as some postings trash MTD, we also read of the improvement here and there that MTD made. Some are easier to work-on than others. The IHCC is definately more difficult/complicated than some of my other color tractors.
I view the IH Cub Cadet tractors as a cool piece of old iron. I can see that I would keep at least one around for a looong time. Actually - probably two, a hydro and a gear drive - just to have a sampling of each in my fleet.
So what's the point of this post? I'm surprised at the outcry of cutting a hole in the top of a NF. IMHO - better than parting out a NF and using the $$$'s to buy a WF. When it comes to fixing the roll pin or any other area in that section of my 126, I will absolutely cut the top open and make a cover. Won't be a hack job like we see with many PO tractors and cutting the hole has nothing to do with any mechanic skills that was pointed out earlier - and by the way, interesting OPINION.
It's been a crap morning and I figured while I'm b#$%ching, I might as well do some of it here too....
One thing common with ALL of these brands is they are quality tractors and well built. I would recommend anyone of them to anyone in need of a garden tractor, especially vs what's on the market today. For me though, none of these tractors in my fleet are collectors - none. They are workers with a purpose and if they can't get the job done, they are sold, parted or hauled to the recycler. Maybe when I retire and have more time on my hands, I might take one and make it a 100 point show piece.
So having spent a goodly amount of time with Wheelhorse, Simplicity and IH Cub Cadets, I can also tell you they ALL have a few bad design quirk that found their way into the design. We read all the time about the QL and iso mounts, etc. As much as some postings trash MTD, we also read of the improvement here and there that MTD made. Some are easier to work-on than others. The IHCC is definately more difficult/complicated than some of my other color tractors.
I view the IH Cub Cadet tractors as a cool piece of old iron. I can see that I would keep at least one around for a looong time. Actually - probably two, a hydro and a gear drive - just to have a sampling of each in my fleet.
So what's the point of this post? I'm surprised at the outcry of cutting a hole in the top of a NF. IMHO - better than parting out a NF and using the $$$'s to buy a WF. When it comes to fixing the roll pin or any other area in that section of my 126, I will absolutely cut the top open and make a cover. Won't be a hack job like we see with many PO tractors and cutting the hole has nothing to do with any mechanic skills that was pointed out earlier - and by the way, interesting OPINION.
It's been a crap morning and I figured while I'm b#$%ching, I might as well do some of it here too....
BILL J. - Your 126 is Your tractor, cut into two pieces for all I care, but I've been running & wrenching on NF GD's for fifty years and never ONCE considered cutting a hole in the frame.
I will admit to drilling two 1/4" dia. holes up by the top front of the frame rails to install a couple lights on the 72 30+ yrs ago, but replaced them shortly afterwards with lights in the factory location because I really didn't care about ONLY seeing the back side of the snow blower... I wanted to see what was ahead of the blower.
Most times I remove and install roll pins the way Tom H. does. A 126 is forty-two yrs old now, if it's lived that long without a hole cut in the frame, it must not be that hard to work on. If you have a physical impairment that prevents you from working on your tractor, sliding underneath it, whatever, then yes, cut away. If you have no impairment I do not see the need.
Have you thought about raising the frt end of your 126 up till the tractor is at a 70 degree angle to gain access to the driveshaft? When I sheared a roll pin at a PD ten yrs ago that's how I replaced it when I got home. Took about an hour. Pull the battery and drain most of the gas out of the tank, oil in the engine and trans will be fine, block the rear wheels securely both ahead of and behind the wheels. And make sure the tractor is securely raised before working on it. I also disassembled the 70 that way a year ago.
I will admit to drilling two 1/4" dia. holes up by the top front of the frame rails to install a couple lights on the 72 30+ yrs ago, but replaced them shortly afterwards with lights in the factory location because I really didn't care about ONLY seeing the back side of the snow blower... I wanted to see what was ahead of the blower.
Most times I remove and install roll pins the way Tom H. does. A 126 is forty-two yrs old now, if it's lived that long without a hole cut in the frame, it must not be that hard to work on. If you have a physical impairment that prevents you from working on your tractor, sliding underneath it, whatever, then yes, cut away. If you have no impairment I do not see the need.
Have you thought about raising the frt end of your 126 up till the tractor is at a 70 degree angle to gain access to the driveshaft? When I sheared a roll pin at a PD ten yrs ago that's how I replaced it when I got home. Took about an hour. Pull the battery and drain most of the gas out of the tank, oil in the engine and trans will be fine, block the rear wheels securely both ahead of and behind the wheels. And make sure the tractor is securely raised before working on it. I also disassembled the 70 that way a year ago.
nbextermueller
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- Nic Bextermueller
I need to get my vote in. I'd pure laziness to need to cut a hole in a NF for a silly pin. You can't put it back together from the top, so you still have to go under it.
Bill, if the U-joint was going bad in your truck, would you go under to check it, or cut an access hole in the bed or cab floor... It's the exact same thing.
Bill, if the U-joint was going bad in your truck, would you go under to check it, or cut an access hole in the bed or cab floor... It's the exact same thing.
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Bill J. Yes... It IS YOUR tractor and when I think about all the Cub Cadets over the years that have been scrapped out, lost to fire or flooding and how many are being parted out even though they are still good runners... I say GO FOR IT !!! Cut your Cub Cadet up anyway that you want. It'll in the long run make the uncut ones worth more one day and that is approaching faster than we'd all like to think. As others have written and I agree with them that if the tractor has gone this many years without being cut up then why not take the time to hoist it in the air like Tom H. does, run it up onto a set of car ramps like I do or even if you're creative enough build a jig to roll it onto it's side. I'm a little over 62 years young and some days I hurt like H*** and can barely walk only ask Angel. She'll verify that I'll find a way to get at that piece undeneath the tractor if needed. Looking at your profile that tractor looks to be in nice original condition. Summing up... it is your Cub Cadet. If you ilved closer I'd isntall that roll pin for you just to spare you from cutting the frame.
I remember yeas ago when a farmer in eastern Iowa butchered the cab of an otherwise nice looking 5088 just to install his two way radio and a "nicer" radio. The dealer said the guy takes one heck of a beating when he trades and he traded fairly often.
I remember yeas ago when a farmer in eastern Iowa butchered the cab of an otherwise nice looking 5088 just to install his two way radio and a "nicer" radio. The dealer said the guy takes one heck of a beating when he trades and he traded fairly often.
Well I guess I open up a hornets nest with my post on the hole cut in my 102 . The Cub is mine and I find it hard to get under my tractors and plan to have a hoist someday to assist me. I find it hard getting down in my shop only to find the light don`t work or I need some other tool. Some of us with this hobby have physical limitations that keep us from doing work that others find easy. Cool down ( it`s only a garden Tractor). don`t ruin my hobby with that is not a 100 point or any other incorrectness . Help if you can give correct repair info and let live.
Hello,
A roll pin has been sheared on the pump end of my 123; however, the holes around the drive shaft don't line up with the sheared pin. I figure that I could just slide the engine forward so they line up before punching them out. I guess I would need to use some force so the engine bolts will will line up with the engine once the roll pin is in. Is this the proper way to go about this? Or will I have trouble trying to realign the engine again?
The picture is a little confusing, but the top right corner is the hydro pump. The left side is the rubber flex coupling.
A roll pin has been sheared on the pump end of my 123; however, the holes around the drive shaft don't line up with the sheared pin. I figure that I could just slide the engine forward so they line up before punching them out. I guess I would need to use some force so the engine bolts will will line up with the engine once the roll pin is in. Is this the proper way to go about this? Or will I have trouble trying to realign the engine again?
The picture is a little confusing, but the top right corner is the hydro pump. The left side is the rubber flex coupling.
