Archive through January 18, 2011

[digger]

Randy D.
Please hit the Enter key after each pic you add, Please and Thank You!

 

[dfrisk]

SCOTT T. - Thats a pretty good sized log to be dragging on wet grass with just turf tires!

Something that helps when dragging anything is to hook the chain as short as possible, within safety considerations. A the tractoe pulls forward it tends to pull up on the load, preventing the load from digging in and pulling down on the rear drive tires. And when dragging anything, watch short turns, you don't want the chain to climb up the rear tires. Longer tow chains also make for much wider turns to get stuff pulled into tight quarters too.

RANDY - NICE looking "1600".

 

[pvanbenschoten]

I managed to look at the PTO clutch on my 127. There is no vertical play in the pivot so I still don't know why the wear button and thrust button are not aligned. I will look into raising the front casting like Lewis suggested. That won't happen until this weekend.

Playing with the turnbuckle will have to wait also.

Good thing I have a Cub Lo-boy with a plow. The snow thrower wouldn't have done much with the slop that was dumped on us yesterday.

 

[tgeirnaeirt]

Could someone please post a picture of the correct linkage for a 782 from the transmission control lever to the hydro. I took a look at the picture they have in the cub cadet parts lookup but didnt give me much help. I would like to see what it looks like all together, so I can compare it to mine and see if there are any differences. I just cant seem to get my mind around those expanded views of the linkage.

 

[wmakowicki]

Tristan my 582 works great with a stock clutch. If yours slips the plates might need to be turned and a new disk installed. The plates rust if tractor is sitting outside in the rain, many of these machines have seen YEARS sitting in the elements. I truned the plates in mine and the grab is much better.

 

[dfrisk]

TERRY G. - If you go back one page to the IHCC Forum list of forums, towards the bottom is the forum titled Manuals. The operators & service manual for the 782 should be in there and shows pic's of the hydro linkage and all adjustments.

 

[rklein]

I picked up a 123 hydrostatic transaxle, pressure washed a nce thick coating of crud and now have it sitting on a roll-able work cradle so I can go about inspecting/repairing it. I have the manuals but al assume that the unit is mounted in a frame and attached to a running engine. Can anyone offer suggestions on how to go about testing to see if this unit is any good? Can I hook up a big drill/electric boat to drive this?

 

[dfrisk]

ROBERT - Yes, a big elec. drill will turn the driveshaft. and if you move the speed/direction lever on the side of the hydro unit the ends of the axles should turn. The driveshaft is 5/8" dia.... hope your drill has a big chuck!

The driveshaft then looking from ABOVE as you would when sitting on the seat of the tractor, with the driveshaft going forward....should be CLOCKWISE.

 

[wshytle]

OK People I need some help. I went to get the 109 out of the barn and she wouldn't crank. She ran a couple of months ago and has sat through some real cold weather since. I'm getting fire and I changed carbs to eliminate possibilities. Theres oil all over the place but the engine is very tired and has always run well even with the oil leakage. I thought oil might have gotten on the points but the fire is strong. I even added another battery even though the battery she has is new. I pulled and cleaned the plug and it was wet. I'm thinking the hydro is just holding her back but then I don't even get a puff or sound like she's trying to start.

Any ideas? I need her to pull the 147 over to the wash pit for a bath. The temps are in the upper 50s today so I thought I'd get a little cubbing in.

 

[wshytle]

Here's the 147 after a bath. I can't wait to get this ole girl running. All I (think I) need is to clean the tank, change fluids, and a battery. I've gone through the carb. I even got a new, extra hyd fluid filter with this tractor.

I also need to reinstall the electric lift and rear 3 pt. You can see it's missing in the pictures. The po did a little low quality painting but I don't mind...at least he was trying to avoid rust. There is a little steel cancer on the hood. The decals look new.

I'm still waiting for ideas on the 109 not starting. I just pushed her back to the barn for now and got out the 1250 for towing the 147 around. I don't like to tow the hydros but I only go about .5 mph. It takes a while just to get by the car.

 

[masmith]

I bought the below pictured hydro lift linkage to fix the slop in the hydro lever on my 149. When I put it on it is too long. I looked at the same piece on my 169 and it is shorter and straight. Before I straighten this one out and re-drill the hole, I am missing something. The parts look up only shows this one. The cub dealer here is really helpful and he could not find a different one listed either.

 

[jbaker]

Wayne is the wire that sneaks around the back of the engine to the coil shorting out it sounds like trouble i have had

 

[rtunison]

I'm finally back to work on "Rusty" the 149. I have wear on the frame where the engine was walking around. I know I have to weld, grind, file and drill.

I bought this off of Craigs list for 175 bucks new in the box.

http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/weldingdepot/K1170.html

My question is what type of rod would be best for this job.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Terry G. did you check to see if you've sheared a pin on the drive shaft?

Sydney S. In reply to troubleshooting a 15U hydro system .... both Terry G. and you need to read what I've written at the bottom of this post and then click onto the site. Read and study the manual...

 

[mhomrighausen]

Richard T. If I recall E7014 rod delivers a nice flat weld. Low spatter and good penetration. Too lazy to run upstairs and check the box.

 

[tgeirnaeirt]

Thanks Marlin. WIll try and get to the bottom of my problem and post back when I find the solution. I think mine has to do with linkage and wear to the linkage.

 

[sgsmith]

Marlin,
Thanks, I'll take the fender pan off and get digging. I checked the filter, it was a Cub Cadet hydraulic filter. I've been reading the service manual but it hasn't sunk in yet

 

[dfrisk]

MARLIN - You are correct, E7014 is good, what I use most of the time for what little stick welding I do anymore. E6013 is good too. E6011 works, real good penetration, will weld right thru rust & paint, but spatters really bad.

 

[rtunison]

Thanks Marlin and Dennis

 

[lbuttke]

Well I decided to see if I could remove the shaft from the cylinder today, it pulled right out the end of the cylinder. Snapped off where it attached to the plunger.

Got the replacement on the tractor now and am able to move snow effecently once again.

Just to bad the cylinder is a welded cylinder, no one around these parts is willing to tackel a repair job for less than the replacement cost of the cylinder.