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Archive through January 18, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Wayne.

What you are describing on your non starting 109 is the main reason I pulled the motor out of my 127 and stuck it into my 100.
Motor would start fine as long as it was not hooked up to the hydro. When hooked to the hydro it would not spin over fast enough to fire up, even with a full charged battery and the charger still hooked up to the battery.

I want to some day build a disconnect clutch for the 127 so I can use it in the winter, but I have other cubs that start and run in the winter I have not bothered to monkey around with building the disconnect clutch.
 
This is a lever on the rockshaft showing a very worn shaft. How is such a thing repaired, welding up the shaft then turning it down, drill it out & weld in a new shaft?

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NOEM - Seeing as that rockshaft arm is 30-32 yrs old, I'd say you have about another forty yrs of wear left on that pin.

But either repair would work.
 
How tight do you tighten the crankcase breather cover on a 100 cub cadet I put new gaskets and a filter in it.Thanks,Joey.
 
Lonny B.-

This ole girl smokes some but could be worse. She has always fired right up on days cooler than it was today. I'm convinced it wasn't the cold hydro in this case. The battery was bought last May. I guess I'll clean the points again. I got this tractor early last spring and went through it pretty well including decarbon of the head with a new head gasket.

Kraig-

Do you have a good pic of the electric lift on a 147? I am trying to learn about the locking clip and how it works. This is my first encounter with this lift system and I couldn't get much from the service manual. It wasn't all that clear to me as far as function either. Does this clip act as a limiter? This lift system came in a box along with the most of the 3pt lift and I'm having to put it all back together. I'm not even 100% sure I have the clip but I'm getting ready to go check.

Thanks
 
Here are pics of the hydro lift lever linkage on the 169 and the picture of the one in the parts manual I bought.
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Randy "D",
Nice looking 1600! Mine is still in work cloths, will get the Tuxedo this summer.

I like haveing the standard clutch set up in the 1600GD, it's kinda' a safty valve.
 
Here is what I made for pulling logs out of the woods at my house, very rocky(boulders the size of cars), hilly terrain. I use the winch to pull the logs close enough if i can not back up to them, use the chain choke the end of the logs, pull up on the logs with the winch and hook the tail of the chain on the hook welded to the upright on the boom to do the pulling while the cable does the lifting. I can pull the winch in to give more traction on the rear tires. Now I need to make a weight rack for the front as the front blade is not enough to keep the front end from pushing when steering(I have only used with snow on the ground). My 75 year old neighbor, who was in the excavation buisness, is always amazed with what this thing can do.
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new member here with a question or two regarding the steering wheel on my 125. how do you remove it? i pulled the cap off and removed the nut. i've tried everything i can think of to get it off. every posting i've read says it is a splined shaft and to use a puller. but i cannot get any puller the grab the bottom of the steering wheel hub. this is my main plow tractor and it is snowing like crazy here. for two days i have been trying to pull, bang, heat, and pry the wheel off the shaft and all i've accomplished is melting the edges of the hub where the center cap fits. something is wrong with the upper bearing below the steering wheel. it makes a squealing and grinding sound when turned to the right. turns fine to the left. it's getting to a point where i almost need to use a come a long to turn the wheel to the right. is there an online parts breakdown any where that i can view? thanks for any help.
 
Don P. go one page back and there was discussion and pictures about steering wheel removal also in the FAQs above you will find more info.

also welcome to the forum
 

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