Archive through January 17, 2016

[digger]

THANKS David!

 

[kharvey]

Terry B if your truck was a little bigger I could have put a good gear drive trans/rear end on with the 147.

 

[jmitchell]

Aggravated beyond aggravated...As a few of you know..I recently went through the process of getting my 126 Cub Cadet back into running condition after it sat for around 4 years without being ran at all.. All the usual work required to the fuel, and ignition systems were done and the result was a good running, FAST starting K301..Carb ultra cleaned and rebuilt with a new kit..New points, condenser, 4.2 ohm ignition coil, new coil to points wire, new spark-plug. Correctly timed, points set to "tight" 0.21 gap. New 275 CCA battery.. It was starting within 3-4 revolutions of the SG... It has sat with new non ethanol fuel, treated with stabilizer and Marvel Mystery oil, for about a month with being started and ran..I went today to start it up and run it for a while in anticipation of some snow coming in later this week..And it will not fire..Turns over great, no spark..Pulled the plug, check for spark...zilch.....The ONLY ignition item I did not replace was the spark plug wire from the coil to the plug..I have a new one, but the old one was working, so I forgot about it.. I have not tried replacing the old spark plug wire yet, but beyond that, I admit I'm kinda stumped as to why it did not produce spark...My building is dry, with a concrete floor, unheated, metal pole-building type of structure.. Anyone have any ideas or thoughts as to why it's not producing spark now?

Thanks in advance

Regards
John Mitchell

 

[fcurrier]

My first guess would be "dirty" points - just because that's what's given me the most grief lately.

 

[hydroharry]

John - guess I'd start with cleaning the points as Frank C suggested. Next I'd check the black wire from the coil to ignition switch for continuity and if that's not the problem then I'd bypass the ignition switch to see if it starts. If it's not the switch then I'd begin to have a good look at the wiring harness. The wiring harness on the 1x6/7 series was notorious for failure. It used a cloth type insulation covering that apparently absorbed moisture or had materials that would corrode the copper wire which would just disintegrate. I had a few that I just touched the wires to the V/R and the wire turned to dust in my fingers. So you'll likely have to check continuity at all the contact points.

 

[tcbusch]

Kendal,
Thanks for the offer. What is interesting is the the transmissions are easy enough to acquire because they are built like tanks. The extras that are tougher to find. Like the clutch assemblies etc. Luckily I have a new to me dealer (thanks CCSpecialites

) as well as extra cubs and lots of cub friends. Not to mention my lathe, mill, drill press, welder, plasma, etc. If I can't find it I'll make it. If it's broke I'll fix it.

So, should a gear drive 147 be a 146 or 148. I'm partial to the 146.

 

[snicklas]

Terry,

146......

In the last edition of the narrow frames

106, 126 - Gear Drive

107, 127, 147 - Hydro

If you were doing this to a wide frame... 148

108, 128 - Gear Drive

109, 129, 149, 169 - Hydro.....

I know that IH never put one of the Cast Iron Gear Drives behind anything bigger than a 12HP, I've read that is because of the power multiplication of the reduction on the input.... however, we know one of the members has a "148"... and hasn't broken anything. Even on the OT arena the pullers have put much more than 12HP into one... and I think there was even 1 model after the move Northeast that had an 18 in it.....

 

[mgonitzke]

Scott-

The 582 is 16 hp, you know...

 

[lpalma]

I have an IH 582 16hp cast iron gear drive.
does that count?
or am I missing something. ...

Terry,
that is a nasty looking tranny.Hope it cleans up well.

under edit.

what Matt said!

 

[sblunier]

The same basic rear end design has been produced with an 18hp Kohler Mag (1806) and stood the racket..........check out the MTD board for more info on the factory 18hp gear drives......