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Archive through January 17, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Don,

I had the same trouble with the steering wheel on my 125. I made a puller to work with my 3-jaw that would apply even pressure to the bottom of the hub. The style on the left works for getting pulleys off without damaging the edge, but it didn't work for the steering wheel because the hub is too soft and compresses.

The one on the right works great. It takes 4 of these semi-circles. They fit under the hub around the column. You stack two pairs with the seams offset and use 1/4" bolts and nuts to hold them together. The 3-jaw puller can grab the plates for a nice even pull on the steering wheel hub.

I also took a 3/8" bolt with about 1/2" of shoulder, cut off the threads, and center-drilled the head to make an insert for the column shaft. This hold the point of the puller bolt on center and protects the end of the column shaft.

I laser cut these because I have easy access to a laser, but you could use the idea with whatever methods you have available.

<center><table border=1><tr><td>
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CC Steering Wheel Puller.pdf (3.1 k)</td></tr></table></center>

Sorry, the .pdf doesn't show up as an image and I couldn't get it saved as a .jpg. If I were home, I'd shoot a picture of it in action.

Jerry
 
Unfortunately that rotated when it uploaded. The shape on the bottom is the one that works.
 
Yes, they do, but you have to be somewhat of a tinkerer, too, to keep them running. A lot of people won’t do that. When their new machine breaks down, they just go get another one.

Personally, nothing gives me more satisfaction than to get an old machine running & functioning.
 
We've been over this before, garden tractors are still being made, for example a JD X-series. I forget the exact numbers but if you convert the cost of a Cub Cadet from say, 1970, to what that dollar value is in todays dollars, it compares quite closely to what an actual garden tractor costs these days. You are comparing apples to oranges, as in Garden Tractor to Lawn Tractors.

Under edit: Having said that, I do agree that a lot of junk is being made these days...
 
Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"

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I know you have seen this before. well the cotter pin won`t come out.
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Jerry M., mention to the members that if they click on the box labeled 'cc steering wheel puller' they can see the drawings. But tell us which is which. <font size="-2">Laser cutter, some guys got all the luck.</font>
 
I can't get the steering wheel off my 149 either. I soaked it with WD-40 and used a steering wheel puller and it's just not coming off and is damaging the wheel. I need a puller like the one below.
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Or you could try this:

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Matt Gonitzke (Mgonitzke) on Sunday, July 04, 2010 - 12:05 pm:

Finally got the steering wheel off. Had to make a puller out of a chunk of hardwood to use with a harmonic balancer puller. I wish I would have done that first. It came off very easily with this. The PO painted the end of the steering shaft red, for reasons I'll never understand, and then put the steering wheel on. That kept my penetrant from getting in there.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

219825.jpg
 
Or this:

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Tom Abbott (Tabbott) on Wednesday, October 03, 2007 - 11:00 am:

Hi, Thought you guys might like to see yet another way to pull the steering wheel, I used this on my 1450.

I have pullers, but no bearing separator to back up the wheel, so.....
I made this from an 8" piece of hard pine 2 X 4.
It was easy as pie, though if you had no woodworking tools, it might be hard.

I just bored an 1 3/4" hole in the center face of the 2 X 4 ( forstner bit), and then flipped it and drilled 2 - 3/8" holes cross wise. Then I split the block on my bandsaw. I just bolted it together around the steering column, and put the puller to it.
Since I had previously sprayed some Kroil on the column, it just took tightening the puller just a little bit and it popped right off. I used a 2 jaw puller, but a balancer puller , with long bolts going through the face of the block, would work also.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

219827.jpg
 
Hmmmmm...
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I think I may try that. I think I have some extra 2x4's laying around. Thanks Kraig!
 
JB, all, just be sure to protect the threads on the steering column, as in leave the nut on at the end of the threads with just a space for the steering wheel to move up...
 
Well I have to get a puller in the am for the 125 steering wheel, I like the wood ideas and will make that part.I will need hytran also for the 125.I did find that the brake rod where it goes to the rear end does not move.Does this rear end have that brake puck I read about one day on here? and just what could I do to get the brake working again? I think this will make a great tractor to mow my grass and I want it and my O refurb ready for fine weather.done working on Cub s for today
 
}<font color="ff0000"> I do agree that a lot of junk is being made these days...

</font><font color="000000"> Yes, for whatever reason too many people make their buying decisions based on features like cup holders, cruise control, and exorbitant HP claims. secretly blame publications like Consumer Reports for that!

The people who buy the new tractors don't look (or even KNOW to look) for sturdy cast iron axles, transmissions, solid one-piece steel frames running the whole legth of the tractor. IH used forged cut steel carburized heat-treated gears in the CC drive train. Now days they use powdered metal gears in diecast housings which are O-K till something breaks. They are unrepairable.

I guess the thing I notice more about newer equipment, whether it's a 150 HP ag tractor, or a 15 HP lawn mower, that they are more prone to intermittant electrical faults which cause operational problems. It may be just a warning light that goes on & off, or it may be a PTO clutch that won't engage, or disengages when it's not supposed to. Some things are better because of electrical/electronic control, but IMHO, anytime you try to control mechanical things with electronics, the electronics always seem to cause the most problems. </font>
 
Don T.

Is there enough room between the dash and the bottom of the steering wheel to fit a piece of 2x4 in on your 125?
 
Someplace, in Dennis Frisk's 3999 posts there must be the makings of a book.
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WOW - I had NO idea I had that many posts! I guess this is the BIG 4000!
 
Kirk Lorenz
Yes there is and I`am going to get a puller so I will have one. Thanks for the posts on how to make a puller for the steering wheel .

I was hopeful someone out there might have had a problem with the brakes on there 125 and would be able to share what they did to get the frozen up brake working. I think I will have to give that a closer look in the am when I put new spring in the trunnion. This 125 will be apart for some time , before I get to spray some paint.sanding all the old paint will keep me busy for a few weeks. I want to spay paint for both the 125 and my Original at the same time. Well that is my plan
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HANDS ON TRAINING CLASS

Have any of you really knowledgeable guys thought of conducting some hands-on training classes? As for myself, I'd be willing to pay a reasonable sum to spend a week or so with an expert, or group of experts, for hands-on training in disassembly and assembly of engines, transmissions, clutches, electrical, etc. Learning correct maintenance procedures and shortcuts and tips gleaned through years of experience would be invaluable to me. I want to be proficient to the point that I can completely overhaul the IH Cub Cadets (I own 5) for myself? As long as there is lodging and food nearby, it would be something I am very interested in.

Thanks for any input,

John-David Reaves
Bynum, Alabama
 

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