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Archive through January 16, 2014
- Thread starter mhorozko
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
tkhoffman
Well-known member
Mike H you wont always hear a knock when they are out of phase. If the shaft runs straight then tehre will be no binding. Same holds true for Car driveshafts with center support bearings
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2005
- Messages
- 1,259
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- Brian Branstetter
Michael,
It goes to prevent binding issues that could possibly cause a knocking condition, when all other things are normal. I think it might become even more important if you are running a 'high speed' pulley. Your set up and mechanical condition is critical when you run at the higher speed but it's also good to keep your thrower tweaked for regular service as well.
Some folks have mentioned knocking while using there throwers and have found that observing the correct join phasing corrected this issue or at least this is my best understanding to date.
It goes to prevent binding issues that could possibly cause a knocking condition, when all other things are normal. I think it might become even more important if you are running a 'high speed' pulley. Your set up and mechanical condition is critical when you run at the higher speed but it's also good to keep your thrower tweaked for regular service as well.
Some folks have mentioned knocking while using there throwers and have found that observing the correct join phasing corrected this issue or at least this is my best understanding to date.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,829
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
U joint crosses accelerate and decellerate as the shaft spins and the joint transmits power at an angle. Keeping the joint "in phase" prevents the wrong combination of acceleration rates from each end of the shaft from causing a vibration and knocking out the joint. "Off" as shown in Brian's pic is better than at an odd angle (might not knock 90 deg out).
They don't always knock, but it is always better to have them "in phase" for max life and smoothness.
They don't always knock, but it is always better to have them "in phase" for max life and smoothness.
JUCAS J. - I replaced the whole axle carrier on my 72 from a parts 123, the 45+ yr old needle bearings and castings, with my newly installed "Corn head gearbox" seals. They bolted right on the GD rearend with new gaskets.
I had a pair of new bushings to replace the ones in the 72's original axle carriers but replacing the carriers was quicker plus an improvement, I think they roll easier. I really don't know if the needle bearings would directly fit in an axle carrier that had bushings. It's been many years ago but I think I remember the axle carrier machined castings have a different part number than the ones with bushings, which probably means they're machined differently.
I had a pair of new bushings to replace the ones in the 72's original axle carriers but replacing the carriers was quicker plus an improvement, I think they roll easier. I really don't know if the needle bearings would directly fit in an axle carrier that had bushings. It's been many years ago but I think I remember the axle carrier machined castings have a different part number than the ones with bushings, which probably means they're machined differently.
Well I`am back on line today but much $$ spent. My confuser died : I did not lose any info because I got smart and run a back up drive and I will be working at this all day . I had to got windows 8.1 and I know I will miss XP . This had a amd processor and 6 gb ram ddr 3 and a 1 tb 72 spin hd. I have so much info now to find and put into some order. You all have a great day while I pound this key board lol.
Don, Win 8.1
First step, download and install Classic Shell At least it will bring back the Start Button and appear more like Win 7 or XP.
DON - I feel your pain. Think my hard drive is getting ready to die also... I've had AMD and Intel both and neither seem to last as long as the POS PC's we had at work. Guess I should buy my next PC off E-pay like they did.
Kraig , Denny
Thanks for that program ; I don`t think I will have much hair left after this day. I have started to arrange files for each tractor with all the info for each one going in it`s own file . This will take me days to sort through . I need a snow day to get this done . This little thing is fast and I have most all my programs set up. Just a thought guys , take the side off your confuser and blow the dust out. That might save you some $$ . ask me how I know lol.
Thanks for that program ; I don`t think I will have much hair left after this day. I have started to arrange files for each tractor with all the info for each one going in it`s own file . This will take me days to sort through . I need a snow day to get this done . This little thing is fast and I have most all my programs set up. Just a thought guys , take the side off your confuser and blow the dust out. That might save you some $$ . ask me how I know lol.
Don, I have this little decal that I made up stuck on ALL my PCs.
DON T. - Question for you.... Anyone you know that rides M/C use GERBING heated glove liners? Specifically this one; http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/gerbings-heated-glove-liner#size_chart_tab
I'm thinking they may be the answer to keeping our hands warm for those of use without cabs when playing... Err I mean, pushing/blowing snow around.
I'm thinking they may be the answer to keeping our hands warm for those of use without cabs when playing... Err I mean, pushing/blowing snow around.
Denny
I have there heated vest and it is fast heating .In the one pocket is the controller and I find they get hot fast and even low setting is warm . So I would try there heated gloves . On a long ride I find I only run the vest on low off and on and don`t need it on all the time .
I have there heated vest and it is fast heating .In the one pocket is the controller and I find they get hot fast and even low setting is warm . So I would try there heated gloves . On a long ride I find I only run the vest on low off and on and don`t need it on all the time .
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
- Messages
- 812
- displayname
- Binder 1650
Quick question - NF and lack of tunnel cover like WF tractors. Don't have any reason to do this - yet, but it is a nice touch that my 1650 and 109 have a handy dandy tunnel cover in front of the seat for access to the front of the tranny and rear driveshaft area - but my 126 does not.
Anyone cut the top off the tunnel on a NF and replaced it with a suitable cover such that whatever structural integrity lost would be restored when the hole is covered up with a new plate?
I thought of this when I had my parts 122 - cutting the top of the tunnel off, oversize and cutting a nice access hole in the 126 and using the top of the 122 as a cover.
The idea would only be to cut the top flat surface of the tunnel on the 126, leaving a flange around the perimeter of about 1/2 inch. On that 1/2 inch surface, I would install a series of riv-nuts around it and when I bolt the cover (culled from the 122), just the presence of the cover and the number of bolts around the perimeter would restore any strength lost from the mod.
Anyone done this? Anyone have pics?
Anyone cut the top off the tunnel on a NF and replaced it with a suitable cover such that whatever structural integrity lost would be restored when the hole is covered up with a new plate?
I thought of this when I had my parts 122 - cutting the top of the tunnel off, oversize and cutting a nice access hole in the 126 and using the top of the 122 as a cover.
The idea would only be to cut the top flat surface of the tunnel on the 126, leaving a flange around the perimeter of about 1/2 inch. On that 1/2 inch surface, I would install a series of riv-nuts around it and when I bolt the cover (culled from the 122), just the presence of the cover and the number of bolts around the perimeter would restore any strength lost from the mod.
Anyone done this? Anyone have pics?
Bill
My 102 has such a hole cut in the top in front of the shifter. It is about 4" square and is cover over with a plate painted black with an IH logo in the center . I think it looks good and was real handy getting that roll pin removed when I took the drive shaft out. If you mod yours to make it easy to work at the drive shaft I bet you will be happy and not the only NF that the mod has been done to . The steel there is plenty heavy to cut out and I don`t think it will cause and problems down the road. Just don`t make it too large .
My 102 has such a hole cut in the top in front of the shifter. It is about 4" square and is cover over with a plate painted black with an IH logo in the center . I think it looks good and was real handy getting that roll pin removed when I took the drive shaft out. If you mod yours to make it easy to work at the drive shaft I bet you will be happy and not the only NF that the mod has been done to . The steel there is plenty heavy to cut out and I don`t think it will cause and problems down the road. Just don`t make it too large .
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Bill "QQ" J - you mentioned the 1650 and 109 at the start of your question about the frame on your 126, and you mentioned they both have the "handy dandy" (removable) tunnel cover. What you didn't mention is that they are also both Hydros!!! Just get yourself another Hydro so you won't be committing sacrilege on that 126 frame. (Or, if ya just gotta have a gear drive go get a wide frame).
Yes, I've see a few NF units with a hole of some type cut in the top of that frame area. None looked very good and they were always GD units. Ole Donnie T mentions he has one with a decal, and someone else posted a pic on here showing an IH decal right there. If you do go ahead with this please make sure it looks nice and add a decal. The ones I've seen in person had a jagged ole hole cut there, like with a sawzall, one looked like someone used a hacksaw and just cut into the frame about half an inch - just looked terrible. I really wouldn't go being proactive and cut this hole before you need the access. You may never really need it.
Yes, I've see a few NF units with a hole of some type cut in the top of that frame area. None looked very good and they were always GD units. Ole Donnie T mentions he has one with a decal, and someone else posted a pic on here showing an IH decal right there. If you do go ahead with this please make sure it looks nice and add a decal. The ones I've seen in person had a jagged ole hole cut there, like with a sawzall, one looked like someone used a hacksaw and just cut into the frame about half an inch - just looked terrible. I really wouldn't go being proactive and cut this hole before you need the access. You may never really need it.
