Archive through January 16, 2011

[dfrisk]

Normally on wiring for lights or ??? on CC's I just use a length of heat shrink tubing over the soldered joint. I'll strip about 1/2 to 3/4" length of each wire, twist them together good, flux them, then solder, slide the HS tubing over when the joint cools and shrink it with a lighter.

I've tried Liquid-Lectric tape, silicon seal/RTV, vinyl elec. tape, and nothing beats heat shrink tube. I forget who it was, maybe Eastwood offered heat shrink TAPE years ago, never tried that.

 

[dtanner]

Charlie "Digger" Proctor

That question never gave me much thought ! but bears must have come along some since I was hunting last. Do Bears do that up OVER your way ?

 

[glippert]

Denny & Don - That's how I've always done my connections, too - solder and heat shrink tubing. Never had an problems. I do seem to recall a conversation here a year or two ago that (if I recall correctly) said a good crimp joint was superior to a soldered connection. But I still feel more confident about a good solder joint with heat shrink to protect and insulate it.

Hmmmmm - I didn't even know I had two cents worth, but there it was!

 

[aaytay]

"...but bears must have come along some since I was hunting last."

Don-
They let you have a gun???

 

[wshytle]

Well, lady luck came to visit this am. I was going over craigslist and came across this back blade and ci 38" deck. The guy just wanted them out of his way. He was asking $75 for the blade and $50 for the deck. I ended up getting both since they are in such good shape. I did have to travel a little over 3 hours round trip. The deck has been tampered as far as the mounting goes but has no holes and a recent coat of paint.

The back blade has a larger, non OEM cutting edge and it has been welded on so I guess it will be used as is for starters.

 

[dtanner]

Greg Lippert
I read all posts and you have good info to share!I have found that less talk and me watch works best for me.There are a few laws that should be followed to get a result that Will improve and last. I guess I did what most do.I did not explain that Denny stood under what I wanted to know.My fault,What I was asking is all pugs in an electrical harness after cleaning should have what to keep them Cleon and rust free ?


Who woke the bear? Must be early for him lol.

 

[dtanner]

Wayne Shytle

I would say you done good.And the travel, I like good reason to hit the coffee shop early and sight see.I`am looking for Yellow & White along the way. Then there is the

, what else does he have ? This day could get better lol.Its kind of embarrassing to have a smile all the way home with a load of yellow and white on the trailer. I feel your pain.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Wayne, I don't see any mods to the mounting on that deck. Looks to be a standard "Pin on" cast end deck to me.

 

[dfrisk]

GREG - I remember that discussion too..... but think it was more like TWO yrs ago! Time flys right?

I can see the heat of soldering making the copper wire brittle, but depending on how you crimp the solderless connectors, they either seem to pull loose quickly or after some rather short period of time, months to a year. I have a pair of electrictians wiring pliers, made for stripping wire, crimping terminals, etc, but most times I use a pair of Vice Grips to crimp terminals. I normally crimp the bare terrminal ends before soldering, and if you pull test a joint the copper wire or the terminal breaks before the joint. If it's a connection that may see abrasion or movement, I've put two & three layers of HS tubing over them as well.

The last few yrs we raced R/C SON & I would wire the elec. speed controls, battery packs, and motors with some really fine filament silicon insulated supposedly high purity 12 ga. copper wire made by Deans called "Wet Noodle", but it's way too expensive to wire a CC with, $35 for 25 ft! But compared to normal machine tool wire (MTW) or THHN, which normally is the same as MTW but has a clear nylon sheath ove the PVC insulation, it's about 100 times more flexible. Makes it much better for frequently handled wires.

 

[dtanner]

Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"

I might. Are the runners welded in normal .?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don, that's a cast end deck, the runners are part of the casting.

 

[dfrisk]

WAYNE - That's a good solid looking 38" deck, and you STOLE that blade for $75.

ART - It's not the guns that hurt people, animals, etc.... It's the ammunition!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Speaking of BEARS

 

[wshytle]

Kraig-

That's good news. There are two eye bolts in place of the front hangers that will be changed. I have the same deck already on my 100 but haven't gotten familiar with it yet. I love having a spare, sharp deck and that's the main reason I got this one.

On the back blade there is a pin to adjust the angle. Is there a spring inside to keep this pin engaged? This one seems to connect but is loose feeling with no "spring back".

 

[dtanner]

Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"
I`am glad thats not waiting for me some place, I might ( . ) in the woods.I did a goggle search to see what I should use for repair of my connections.Well I did get an eye opener.Just try http://www.evconvert.com/eve/gas-powered-ev and scroll down to — ken Apr 22, 2008 22:56 PM #
. I used to have issues with vibration and solder breaks. Now I know why. Denny must have had his problems with the cars he had fun with lol.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Wayne, those eye bolts are the stock item... see the photo from the manual that I posted below.

Click <blink><font color="ff0000">--></font></blink> HERE for a download-able PDF version of the manual for that grader blade.

 

[wshytle]

Kraig-

Do you have a picture showing the locking pin? The PDF didn't show it well and said nothing about any internal spring to keep this pin engaged. I'm also a little confused about the springs shown off to the sides of the hitch. Are these for down force? If you have a pic of them it would be great as well.

I see what you mean about the eye bolts now. Like I mentioned, I'm not familiar with this model deck yet.....but I'm learning by the minute.

Thanks in advance!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Wayne, looks like there's supposed to be a spring in there. The big springs, item # 10 are listed in the parts drawing as: "Spring, Lifting". Doesn't sound to me like they are for downforce, though that is what I had always assumed they were for.

 

[thoffman]

Wayne/Kraig, Those springs don't do much good. I f you have a spring assist tighten it up. I had my 120 with the scraper box on it at the RPRU in Sandwich, Illinois years ago. I had the helper spring tightened so you could lift it with one finger, and had it so I could take the tire tracks out of the gravel only. That's only about 1/8" 1/4". Trust me you don't need down pressure.

The "sping" is attached from the bottom side on the sholder/locking pin.

 

[rodsmith]

WAYNE,
Here is what PO used as items 2,3,& 4 on my blade.Was told by several I didn't need big springs because they held pressure just to keep it from riding up at times.Still like to find OEM set to keep it original.
KRAIG,
GOT IT!!!