Don't want to overpay but I have seen a few #1 carts for sale that are not in original condition that sold for $150-200. I see one on ebay selling for $285 but that seems extremely high! I wasn't planning on espending over $100 anyway.
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Archive through January 15, 2011
- Thread starter mgonitzke
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
We are stepping off in CHARLIES BRYANS and KRAIGS no mans land about money! Look at the condition, paint tires,solid build,versus one made todayI have one and the are heavy.Can't get one like that today for any amount. Wish it was here.
Besides, they look neat behind a "O" or 100.
My .02
ROD
Wayne K.-
I've seen small hose clamps used but don't like using them myself. I've just wrapped about 3 rounds of electrical tape beside the fan. It looks a little tacky but works well. The spinning of the fan pulls it toward the front of the tractor. If allowed to "walk" far enough you're buying another fan. You might try putting some tape where you want the fan and seeing if you can then slide the fan over the tape giving the lock ring more to work with as far as grip.
Just some ideas...
I've seen small hose clamps used but don't like using them myself. I've just wrapped about 3 rounds of electrical tape beside the fan. It looks a little tacky but works well. The spinning of the fan pulls it toward the front of the tractor. If allowed to "walk" far enough you're buying another fan. You might try putting some tape where you want the fan and seeing if you can then slide the fan over the tape giving the lock ring more to work with as far as grip.
Just some ideas...
wmakowicki
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2010
- Messages
- 62
- displayname
- Wayne Makowicki
How think is ISO mount with motor installed? Looking at the mounts from under the tractor they are compressed how much is correct?
nqueensland
Well-known member
Wayne- Here is a great write up on the Iso mounts and some mods you can do to increase their life:
http://cubfaq.com/isomount.html . Basically, the iso mounts and rail bolt to the tractor's frame, and the motor bolts to the isomount frame.
http://cubfaq.com/isomount.html . Basically, the iso mounts and rail bolt to the tractor's frame, and the motor bolts to the isomount frame.
Wayne M.-
If your engine hasn't soaked the rubber mounts too much one trick to save a buck is use the OEM mounts that were ON TOP on the bottom and replace the tops with a set of Moogs gotten at your auto supply store. I don't know the p/n right off but I think it's in the FAQs. The Moogs will work all around but they are a little stiffer than factory. By putting the decent factory rubber on the bottom it will be closer to how it's suppose to absorb shock. Check your oil pan if the present lowers are compressed...this is a common place for damage from rubbing.
I didn't know we had so many Waynes into cubs.
If your engine hasn't soaked the rubber mounts too much one trick to save a buck is use the OEM mounts that were ON TOP on the bottom and replace the tops with a set of Moogs gotten at your auto supply store. I don't know the p/n right off but I think it's in the FAQs. The Moogs will work all around but they are a little stiffer than factory. By putting the decent factory rubber on the bottom it will be closer to how it's suppose to absorb shock. Check your oil pan if the present lowers are compressed...this is a common place for damage from rubbing.
I didn't know we had so many Waynes into cubs.
Has anyone here had much of a problem in using fuel containing ethanol? I haven't but have heard of a few.I'm sure several of the forum members are agriculture based somehow,so don't want to step on any toes in any way.
Long story short,I worked on 4 engines Friday that belong to the local city fire department.
All had carb issues from sitting.At the local small engine shop for parts I asked for STABIL and he said try this.STARTRON a additive for fuel with ethanol. It stabilizes gas,improves fuel economy, and says REJUVENATES STALE FUEL.
Some kind of enzyme formula. Just thought I'd
pass this on. The bottle treated up to 48gals.and was $6.99.I'm trying it in my Cub CADETS and other small engines. www.starbrite.com
ROD
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Wayne M.-
If you are using new OEM mounts and the original length bolts, tighten them so one thread is showing outside of the locknut.
If you haven't taken the plunge and purchased a full set of the OEM mounts, I would. I have done both that and also re-using the good upper mounts on the bottom and the sway bar bushings on top, and I wasn't impressed with the latter. There is still a lot of vibration. New OEM mounts are worth the money and the way to go, IMO.
If you are using new OEM mounts and the original length bolts, tighten them so one thread is showing outside of the locknut.
If you haven't taken the plunge and purchased a full set of the OEM mounts, I would. I have done both that and also re-using the good upper mounts on the bottom and the sway bar bushings on top, and I wasn't impressed with the latter. There is still a lot of vibration. New OEM mounts are worth the money and the way to go, IMO.
Good afternoon all I am replacing the hydro fan on the drive shaft of my cc 125. The one I am replacing is made of metal and about 3/8" overall OD smaller than the plastic replacement I ordered and recieved. Also, the metal one I am replacing has a collar with allen screws which are used to tighten the fan to the drive shaft. The plastic one is installed with a snap ring.
Does any one know of a supplier who has the metal replacement fan?
Thanks,
Frank
Does any one know of a supplier who has the metal replacement fan?
Thanks,
Frank
FRANK - Every hydro CC I've ever seen has had a plastic fan like your new one. Even the well worn 129 I got used 20+ yrs ago.... just the hub was left on it however...
Your old metal fan must be from something else used on your 125.
Your old metal fan must be from something else used on your 125.
Big oil leak gone, doen't make sense? Started my 782 and went in house while it was warming up. When I came back it was smoking big time. Appears oil was leaking from crank seal and got slung around by pto. Shut it down and a week later fired it up again, but didn't wait as long before driving. Here's the strange part, not any oil on floor after parking it. Could I have some how built excessive pressure in crank case that pushed oil past seal, but why wouldn't it do it second time? Any idea's would be appreciated.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Frank/Dennis-
The 125 came from the factory with the metal fan. The plastic one is the replacement for it. If anything, the plastic fan is probably better because it moves more air.
The 125 came from the factory with the metal fan. The plastic one is the replacement for it. If anything, the plastic fan is probably better because it moves more air.
Dennis:
Thanks for the reply. My drive shaft does not have a groove for the snap ring supplied with the new plastic fan blade. Is there a "hub" or some other method for afixing the plastic fan blade to the drive shaft?
Thanks,
Frank
Thanks for the reply. My drive shaft does not have a groove for the snap ring supplied with the new plastic fan blade. Is there a "hub" or some other method for afixing the plastic fan blade to the drive shaft?
Thanks,
Frank
DANIEL,
What weight is your oil? How cold was it the day you had the leak compared to today? I've seen this on gear boxes and car engines when real cold.I think over time the seal starts getting brittle then there is a cold spell it gets stiff
at same time and just doesn't perform as intended.
ROD
FRANK - The snap ring goes around the outside of the hub on the plastic fan, compresses the hub slightly to turn the fan. There's no direect positive drive. I suppose they think that will save slicing someone's finger off or maybe breaking a fin off the fan blade.
MATT - Did the 123's use a metal blade too? I've got about HALF of a 123 here for parts, compete hydro, frame, steering column & grill casting, no frt axle, engine, or hood. I'll have to see if it has the hub left on the driveshaft. It was formerly a FARMALL Plant Maintenance tractor so it's been rode VERY hard. Like most of the tractors used there it had full length fenders from the rear fenders up over the frt wheels for running FAST on wet pavement, and a safety gas cap on the gas tank sticking up thru the hood when Dad bought it years ago.
MATT - Did the 123's use a metal blade too? I've got about HALF of a 123 here for parts, compete hydro, frame, steering column & grill casting, no frt axle, engine, or hood. I'll have to see if it has the hub left on the driveshaft. It was formerly a FARMALL Plant Maintenance tractor so it's been rode VERY hard. Like most of the tractors used there it had full length fenders from the rear fenders up over the frt wheels for running FAST on wet pavement, and a safety gas cap on the gas tank sticking up thru the hood when Dad bought it years ago.
RODNEY - Nope, Dad kinda borrowed a few parts off the 123 as time went on. In fact I have too. My CC 72 had a lot of wear on the bronze bushings at the ends of the rear axle carriers and I swapped rear axles between that 123 & 72 to get the needle roller bearings all the higher HP CC's used onto my 72.
I "THINK" I'm the third owner of my 72. I bought it from a guy who did some test work for FARMALL putting hours on R&D tractors the plant sent him. He'd bought it a few years before from a local dealer. My 72 was about 12-13 yrs old then. Not sure who owned it prior to that. My 70 Dad bought new in '65, traded a '63 Original he bought new for the 70. Dad sold the 70 to a co-worker in about '90. Co-worker owned it about a year.... got done mowing the last time in the fall and left it set for about 2-3 months in his back yard. Dad told him if he didn't put it in a garage or ??? something he'd take it back. Week later he took his pickup to work, backed into the guys drive and started loading it up. Guy came out of the house all mad and shouting, Dad handed him back the money he sold it for to the guy and finished loading it, slammed the tailgate and brought it back home. Dad had owned it about twenty-five yrs and it had NEVER spent a night outside until then.
I "THINK" I'm the third owner of my 72. I bought it from a guy who did some test work for FARMALL putting hours on R&D tractors the plant sent him. He'd bought it a few years before from a local dealer. My 72 was about 12-13 yrs old then. Not sure who owned it prior to that. My 70 Dad bought new in '65, traded a '63 Original he bought new for the 70. Dad sold the 70 to a co-worker in about '90. Co-worker owned it about a year.... got done mowing the last time in the fall and left it set for about 2-3 months in his back yard. Dad told him if he didn't put it in a garage or ??? something he'd take it back. Week later he took his pickup to work, backed into the guys drive and started loading it up. Guy came out of the house all mad and shouting, Dad handed him back the money he sold it for to the guy and finished loading it, slammed the tailgate and brought it back home. Dad had owned it about twenty-five yrs and it had NEVER spent a night outside until then.
