Archive through January 13, 2007

[rfowler]

Roland:

Now that I have found out which pieces are what, how to I go about setting the idle and any other things???? Thanks in advance

 

[rbedell]

Bob F:

I am sorry. When I posted earlier, I supplied the wrong highlight.

You wanted RPM's instead idle mixture.

Attached is the same Pic's but highligted in BLUE is the screw you adjust for RPM's. If you have a Tachometer, then adjust to Kohler Specs. If you don't have a Tach, then adjust to "what sounds good method".

 

[kide]

The long suffering 129 decided to see if I was paying attention last summer by pegging the ammeter (full charge, not discharge) right after starting - as Ken said, it usually goes to a fairly high charge and then settles back, but this was whacking the peg and staying there (funny how habits form - I always glance at the ammeter right after starting the old guy). Anyway, I jumped right onto the problem, pulling the battery and starting the process of pulling the regulator. About ten minutes into that(I hate getting at the back side of those mounting bolts under the fender) I happened to bump the battery ground cable ---- it was loose where it attaches to the sheet metal. Moral of the story - check the simple stuff first and in this case a bad battery ground will drive the regulator crazy....

 

[rfowler]

Roland:
Just to make sure were on the same page ( i would hate to make the wrong change), im going to start up the tractor. Then im going to put the throttle on slow. Then im going to turn the "throttle stop screw" to raise the rpm. That shoud raise the rpm on the "slow" throttle setting????

 

[kweaver]

Kendell - believe it or not I thought about that but you didn't say anything about it not cranking good so I ASSUMED if it cranked good then the ground was good. A bad ground from rust or paint under the connection OR a loose ground is probably #1 cause of most headaches.
<font color="0000ff">Like my very first post said, it's working don't change it! </font>

Weird weather in L.A. ! ICE on the road / 34*}

 

[rbedell]

Bob F:

Turn in to raise.
Turn out to lower.

 

[dkirk]

Lyle,

What brand piston was installed during the rebuild? Reason I asked is I installed a Stenz piston in a K241 rebuild recently and noticed the wrist pin was much heavier than the Kohler part.

Piston mass was approximately the same but the pin was enough to cause some concern on the resulting balance, especially if balance gears are removed. I ended up reusing the Kohler wrist pin in the Stenz piston - exact fit. This brings the recip mass back to where it should be.

 

[kide]

Ken - yup - not sure why it would crank OK - I assume just enough of an arc on the loose ground to "spot weld" the connection while cranking (I dunno why, but I've seen that quite often on battery connections). We just fixed the next door neighbor's hard starting CA with a direct ground from the battery to the back of the starter. That machine has been split a few times and I can only assume that moisture has rusted the mating surfaces between the trans (where the battery is grounded) and the engine block. I've always made a habit of checking the ground between the battery and the block on the 129 with a DVOM the few times I've had a problem - except last summer..... BTW - in the time I've had it (1985 till now) I've put in one set of SG brushes (and the originals were still usable) and had the cover off the original regulator once and this is on a "worker" that was the only machine we had for year round duty (snow, grass, excavating and hauling wood) till we bought the off topic ZTR in '05. The crate motor we bought in '95 only has about 600 hours on it, but still, pretty typical for an IHC Cub....

 

[rbedell]

Kendall:

I've always made a habit of checking the ground between the battery and the block on the 129 with a DVOM the few times I've had a problem

Using a DVOM meter will tell you if there is a resistance problem. You could have zero resistance but not enough connection to handle the Amperage. It is like having one strand of a multi-stranded cable making contact, and the DVOM will see this as zero resistance, but that one strand won't turn a starter over. A more accurate method would be to check the Amperage Draw.

 

[kide]

Roland- I agree, but in practical experience,(not just with cubs) if a wire or device doesn't have the ampacity, it'll cook, thereby revealing itself as the weak link.(check links for British theory of electron escape or just "Joseph Lucas, Prince or Darkness" for one view

) Connecting a high capacity ammeter in series as a troubleshooting device depends on what problem you're troubleshooting. Everyone has their own segmentation process in problem identification. For slow cranking, I look for bad connections first, then on to high current draw..Point is, the Cub I'm familiar with uses the sheet metal for part of the circuit, therefore I look for low resistance with a good DVOM on it's lowest scale (my trusty old B&K 2815 will read to a hundredth of an ohm on the 10 Ohm scale, zeroed out, so I can see the quality of the connection) between the battery and the SG.