Archive through January 11, 2012

[ssouhrada]

Tom,
Nice find on the 800! That looks like the one that's been on Chicago CL for a while. Does it have a cyclops headlight?

Got any pics of how they mounted the blade. From the other pics I saw, it looked like they had welded to the front frame.
She looks to be in great shape. Congrats on the 800!

 

[astrawderman]

Charlie, wouldn't that ruin those rare hubcaps

 

[digger]

Andrew S.
More than likely the chrome was probably shot and the PO decided to give it the stealth look rather than leave the rust look.

IH hubcaps are not that rare, even NOS ones are layin around all over. LOL

 

[thoffman]

Thanks for the comments on the 800.
1).Yes they are IH hub caps. Will be tring to remove the pint soon.
2).Yes, that's snow. It was 55 yesterday, that's Chicagoland weather for ya'.
3).Its a funky P.O. modified plowy kinda' thingy. It not going to be on much longer. Looks like a ATV plow.
4).Denny's right! Those fixer upper can be dangerous! The P.O. was one of those kinda' guys.
5).Yup, it's the one that's been on CL off and on for couple of months. I stopped and looked at it just before Thanksgiving and the guy was pretty headstrong on the price. Funny how time and a couple of dead president will change someones mind.

 

[sblunier]

Ron S.

I've had 4 or 5 hydros apart (all different pin configurations), and I understand your issue.

BEST PRACTICE is to follow the manual, mark the punch and carefully drive the pins in....BUT, when you get close to your mark, start to "wiggle" the trunion back and forth after each very light tap of the pin. You can feel the pins rock in the chamfer of the hole when you get very close
and can easily avoid driving them too far (or not enough). 99% of the time it isn't an issue, but as you mentioned, one tap tooo far and you'll be driving them out the back (very carefully)

Moved about 4" of snow this evening with the 2072 & Haban.....love that big horse!!!!!

 

[lpalma]

Tom,
Congrats on your 800.I like the black hubcaps.
Mine is not as nice as yours.but the price was right!!!

 

[jhetrick]

I hope I'm posting this in the right place, new here to the forum. I'm an IH truck guy (I have a '72 Travelall and a '78 ScoutII), and I need to get a tractor for around the house. I of course want a classic Cub Cadet! But I have no idea what to look for. I want it to mow of course, maybe push around a little snow, and a little garden work. I know there's different size frames, and whatnot, but I want this thing to be affordable, easy to maintain, and something I can adapt for different uses and implements, and semi classic. I'm sure this is a broad question to answer, and everyone has their opinions, but I don't know where to start. Thanks in advance!

Jed

 

[digger]

UH-OH!!!!
We've got a new guy that wants to buy ONE Cub Cadet!

And we all know how this story is gonna end!

Welcome to the forum Jarrad.

 

[jbaker]

Jarred Welcome you will have to post pics of your IH truck, in the sandbox,

But to answer your question, find your self a 149 with hydraulic lift!! which is a wide frame with a 14 horse engine you wont be sorry

JMHO

 

[rmcshane]

Jared-Welcome. Charlie is right...saying you want one Cub Cadet is like saying you just ate your last meal

. IMHO, I couldnt give you a specific model to like...because I like them all. But theres many options and opinions for a guy to choose

 

[thoffman]

Charlie,
At least he's contributing something!
Jarrod,
Get one you can afford..... and go from there. The're ALL GREAT TRACTORS!

 

[pcorkery]

I have a 1970 106 cub cadet. I bought it new. The brakes are gone . A cub Cadet dealer said there are no pads available for it. Does anyone know of an aftermarket product?

 

[proessler]

Phil, try CC Specialities, (Look Above ^^^^)looks like Charlie's waiting for your brake pads with a temporary restock in a holding pattern...

 

[jchamberlin]

Phil: You're not the first person to find yourself in this predicament. Believe it or not, you can make new pads yourself. You have to locate the pad material (which is available for a different application), cut it out, glue it down to the old metal backing with epoxy and finally shave the thickness down to fit over the rotor. There is a write-up somewhere on this site about how to do it.

Or, as Paul points out, you can buy the components in kit form from one of our sponsors. Either way, it beats paying the ridiculous price of "authentic" replacements. Also, you are assured that the new pads will fit your brakes, it seems IH sourced their pads from several different vendors and the pads are not interchangeable.

I'll see if I can't locate the link to the write-up, if someone else doesn't chime in.

 

[stanner]

Phil,

I did write-up in the Machine Shop section on relining.
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/22745/189212.html?1309363845

 

[fcurrier]

Friday the 13th. Good luck, all!
Charlie directed Neil M. over here, but I don't see him. However, it looks to me like 2050580u568805 is a 1200 built in Nov., 1975. The build date is in the FAQs but couldn't link to the model codes - had to get old fashioned and break out K. Updike's book.

 

[ljones]

I have been working on getting the pto clutch on my 122 off. One set of set screws came right out, one set was missing and the last set stripped off. I got the the clutch off by destroying the bearing. I still have the bearing race, and this little black thing behind it on the crank. Do these slide off with the s/g pulley or do they have to come off first? I tried to put a puller on the beaing race but it slips off. Any suggestions on how to get them off?

 

[pfunk]

Lucas, that little black thingy is an eccentric that has to be loosened before you can get the bearing off. If you look here you can see how I do it. Also, I've used duct tape around the outside of my puller at times to keep it from opening and sliding off. It's crude but sometimes it works. Hope this helps.

 

[rmcshane]

Lucas-One of my very first Cub Cadet experiences was fixing the pto clutch on my 105...So I feel your pain! What I did was got the angle grinder out, ground a flat spot on the old race, and "cracked it" with a sharp chisel. The lock collar on the back of the race needs to be turned a certain direction (I cant remember which way) to loosen the race from the shaft. Just my thoughts.

 

[dfrisk]

Actually, since today's topic seems to be PTO clutches, I've used my 2-jaw gear puller to remove the PTO assembly complete with bearing and sometimes the locking collar by just wrapping a worm gear hose clamp around the jaws and tightening the puller. The center bolt on the puller bottoms the center piece in the clutch against the end of the crankshaft. This works best for complete clutch rebuild, sometimes the three levers get messed up and the center triangular spring of course, so new parts are required to reinstall the clutch.

I haven't priced a new PTO clutch bearing lately but I'm sure I'd be SHOCKED at what they cost. Sounds like Lucas' was ready to be replaced if it fell apart so easily. Lucas should be able to loosen the setscrew in the eccentric retaining collar and gently tap it one way or the other to loosen it from the inner bearing race and slide them both off his crankshaft. A small DULL file works well to remove nicks from the crankshaft before you polish it with sand paper to remove rust to reassemble. And coat any and every thing with anti-sieze so it comes apart easy next time.