Ken F.
We have a manuals section that explains everything.
We have a manuals section that explains everything.
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Archive through January 10, 2014
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kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
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- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Doug's "You can buy a lot of body filler and welding wire for $600.00." is spot on - actually you could have a new one bent for a lot less than that..
Don - looks like a great engine, but the 40's style will get old quick - lot of opinions that Indian will have to come up with a less heavily styled bike to keep sales going after all the boomer generation types have fulfilled their wish for a Chief..
Don - looks like a great engine, but the 40's style will get old quick - lot of opinions that Indian will have to come up with a less heavily styled bike to keep sales going after all the boomer generation types have fulfilled their wish for a Chief..
Charlie,
Thanks for the info. I looked at the manual section, but i did not see that page. I guess I'll go back and look again. It makes sense, but I do agree with Ken, as in it looks a little confusing. I'll have to look again to see exactly how that clip works.
Thanks for the info. I looked at the manual section, but i did not see that page. I guess I'll go back and look again. It makes sense, but I do agree with Ken, as in it looks a little confusing. I'll have to look again to see exactly how that clip works.
I couldn't find that page in any manuals either.
OK, I hope that winter is over because one of my 2 main snow moving machines just went down. Unless one of my GD loving buddies wants to come change that roll pin in my 106 with disc brakes. I hope it is the roll pin in front of the creeper or it really gets torn apart. I got it babied to the shed in creeper low 1st gear.
Hi folks, I have a couple of questions about my Cub 105. First, is there any way to get a new grip on the lift handle without taking out the lockout button? I got a new grip because mine was actually missing. I thought about heating up the new grip so it's good and pliable but still not sure if it would slip down over the lockout button. Does that button just pop out and if so, is it a one time thing and I would have to buy a new one if I took it out?
Secondly, my 105 came with a 42 inch mower deck that is in decent shape but I'm fairly certain that the blades have been on there since the Nixon administration. Last year I tried take the blades off so I could sharpen or replace them but I couldn't hold the spindles tight enough to break the nuts loose. After reading the manual (should have done that first), I see where there a slip washers under the blades to act as a safety clutch. The manual said the outside spindles have flats so you can put some sort of wrench on there and the center spindle has a hole to put a screwdriver in there to hold it while loosening the nuts. Where exactly are these flat spots and the hole? I looked all over the spindles (on the blade side) and didn't see them. Are they on the top of the mower deck somewhere? Thanks in advance for any insight on these questions.
Secondly, my 105 came with a 42 inch mower deck that is in decent shape but I'm fairly certain that the blades have been on there since the Nixon administration. Last year I tried take the blades off so I could sharpen or replace them but I couldn't hold the spindles tight enough to break the nuts loose. After reading the manual (should have done that first), I see where there a slip washers under the blades to act as a safety clutch. The manual said the outside spindles have flats so you can put some sort of wrench on there and the center spindle has a hole to put a screwdriver in there to hold it while loosening the nuts. Where exactly are these flat spots and the hole? I looked all over the spindles (on the blade side) and didn't see them. Are they on the top of the mower deck somewhere? Thanks in advance for any insight on these questions.
Evening, anybody ever try and put a exhaust of a Honda or something else that is quieter than the original kohler exhaust? I got an original cub cadet exhaust for my 125 this summer, but I still find it is very loud,
nbextermueller
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- Joined
- May 18, 2007
- Messages
- 909
- displayname
- Nic Bextermueller
To each his own man,
I love the sound of my K's thumping away. It's a good reminder I'm not driving a stamped steel, big box store POS powered by the low bid junk under the plastic hood. Like a Honda or something...
Under edit: I also wear hearing protection when using my CC's. either plugs, noise canceling muffs, or in some cases... A helmet
Safety First!!
I love the sound of my K's thumping away. It's a good reminder I'm not driving a stamped steel, big box store POS powered by the low bid junk under the plastic hood. Like a Honda or something...
Under edit: I also wear hearing protection when using my CC's. either plugs, noise canceling muffs, or in some cases... A helmet
Safety First!!
Lol, I know what you mean about sounding good, but I'm trying to build a good reliable mower for my wife to get on and drive, myself I don't really care, but I always have my kids riding around with me, plus just spent Xmas yelling at father in law, who's in his 50,s but can't hear do to fact he worked loud woods equipment his who life.
Joel Goodine
If you find a piece of pipe and slide it over the end on the muffler plus put a bend it the pipe so it can go up past the hood . I think you will find anything over a few feet will quiet the exhaust down some . It worked for me.
If you find a piece of pipe and slide it over the end on the muffler plus put a bend it the pipe so it can go up past the hood . I think you will find anything over a few feet will quiet the exhaust down some . It worked for me.
Tks don, might try that, I see after some searching on this awesome forum where somebody actually put another muffler on past the first one, I would do just about anything just don't want to cause restriction and do damage to engine,
mgwin
Well-known member
Joel,
1-1/2" thinwall conduit slides right over the end of the muffler. A muffler shop can bend it upwards for you. Just cut it to the desired height and add a rain flap. Split the end a little(cut a slit with a hacksaw) that slides on the muffler and put on a muffler clamp to hold it in place.
1-1/2" thinwall conduit slides right over the end of the muffler. A muffler shop can bend it upwards for you. Just cut it to the desired height and add a rain flap. Split the end a little(cut a slit with a hacksaw) that slides on the muffler and put on a muffler clamp to hold it in place.
Tks again for all the suggestions, this is a great site, I do try and wear ear plugs, but I am also not trying to offend my neighbours either, one of my neighbours repeatedly insisted on having loud party's tell early into the morning, so I decided one early Sunday morning at 6:30 am that I needed to mow lawn next to there house, my cub was the perfect tractor for that, lol
Joel-
You go boy!
I hate loud neighbors and a cub in the early morning is just good medicine. I'd do the same thing but my noisy neighbor is 1/4 mile away (I live in the country) so even my cubs can't do the necessary justice.
You go boy!
I hate loud neighbors and a cub in the early morning is just good medicine. I'd do the same thing but my noisy neighbor is 1/4 mile away (I live in the country) so even my cubs can't do the necessary justice.
KEVIN J. - Do NOT remove the float lock button from your lift lever. To put a new rubber/plastic grip on, just heat the grip in hot water, almost boiling, then with a gloved hand, slide it on over the float lock button into place. When heated the drip is very pliable.
The float lock button is a barbed press fit, removing will at least damage it and probably destroy it. And every removal and installation of a button removes or displaces metal from the lift lever hole until a new button will not stay in.
For mower blade removal, I just use a 1/2" pneumatic impact and the proper sized impact socket. One hand on the impact, the other steadying the blade and in 2-3 seconds the blade is off. And a little anti-sieze compound on the spindle threads makes the large hex nuts go on/off MUCH easier.
We've discussed those "friction washers" here before. I REALLY doubt you'll find them on your CC's mower deck. I have never seen or used them in 50 yrs. I do use a large heavy 3/4" flat washer between the blade and hex nut, and on some spingles of my decks between the blade and spindle to "shim" the blade so the tips of the blade are even within 1/16th of an inch. The decks mow much nicer when you do that.
Can't say anything about Joel's question, except to say I REALLY like my K321's straight pipe. Yes, I wear muff-type headphones with the FM radio blaring when I run it.
The float lock button is a barbed press fit, removing will at least damage it and probably destroy it. And every removal and installation of a button removes or displaces metal from the lift lever hole until a new button will not stay in.
For mower blade removal, I just use a 1/2" pneumatic impact and the proper sized impact socket. One hand on the impact, the other steadying the blade and in 2-3 seconds the blade is off. And a little anti-sieze compound on the spindle threads makes the large hex nuts go on/off MUCH easier.
We've discussed those "friction washers" here before. I REALLY doubt you'll find them on your CC's mower deck. I have never seen or used them in 50 yrs. I do use a large heavy 3/4" flat washer between the blade and hex nut, and on some spingles of my decks between the blade and spindle to "shim" the blade so the tips of the blade are even within 1/16th of an inch. The decks mow much nicer when you do that.
Can't say anything about Joel's question, except to say I REALLY like my K321's straight pipe. Yes, I wear muff-type headphones with the FM radio blaring when I run it.
Good morning, I got another question about my 125, yes I did read the FAQ I bought a new rebuild kit from my local IH dealer this past summer, and rebuilt my pto. Following instructions carefully, but I found when I was tilling garden or mowing in thick grass the pto would slip, Is this common problem? Possibly my springs weak?
Joel G.
Sounds to me like you didn't resurface the cast parts.
PTO's are no different than any other clutch, they get high and low spots, hard spots and will not function properly unless completely done correctly.
Same goes for the tension springs on the 3 bolts.
Plus the 3 throwout finger could be worn or even bent.
A picture or 3 would help everyone figure out what's up for you.
Sounds to me like you didn't resurface the cast parts.
PTO's are no different than any other clutch, they get high and low spots, hard spots and will not function properly unless completely done correctly.
Same goes for the tension springs on the 3 bolts.
Plus the 3 throwout finger could be worn or even bent.
A picture or 3 would help everyone figure out what's up for you.
