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Archive through January 10, 2011
- Thread starter rmcshane
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"
I got it covered. I saved that bong idea. I also have an electric pump that pumps into a garden hose and conects to the valve stem. It has an air bleed valve, I bought it at Carquest last winter.I got 20 gallons of washer fuild to pump lol
I got it covered. I saved that bong idea. I also have an electric pump that pumps into a garden hose and conects to the valve stem. It has an air bleed valve, I bought it at Carquest last winter.I got 20 gallons of washer fuild to pump lol
Don T.-
Yes it is like new. I posted last week about me finding it local and it was sitting in a barn for MANY MANY years. On another note, I am sick and tires of the weather GUESSERS being wrong! Give me some snow in Central PA!!
Yes it is like new. I posted last week about me finding it local and it was sitting in a barn for MANY MANY years. On another note, I am sick and tires of the weather GUESSERS being wrong! Give me some snow in Central PA!!
DON - I don't run my rear tires NEAR that high of PSI. The 26-12.00X12's on the 982 maybe 4-5 psi, the 23-8.50's on the 72 maybe 8-10 PSI. And they both have 2-3 sets of weights. The big tires squat pretty good when pulling a big cart-load of dirt/rock but they're 4-ply w/tubes. It doesn't hurt them. I air them both so the lugs make full width contact under normal loads.
I'd like to air up the tires on the #1 FARMALL snow mover but it has CaCl in them and the valve core is rusted tight and plugged up and I couldn't get either tire to take air 4-5 yrs ago. So there's another reason I don't like CaCl fluid in tires!
KRAIG - Thanks for posting the timed deck instructions for RYAN! And the tire bong search instructions for DON!
I'd like to air up the tires on the #1 FARMALL snow mover but it has CaCl in them and the valve core is rusted tight and plugged up and I couldn't get either tire to take air 4-5 yrs ago. So there's another reason I don't like CaCl fluid in tires!
KRAIG - Thanks for posting the timed deck instructions for RYAN! And the tire bong search instructions for DON!
Dennis Frisk
Denny , You must be running tubes ? I have eight lbs of air in my loader super lugs with the cal. I had the guys at the tire shop add the air.So my 129 runs the heavy cal and 50 lbs plastic weight and one IH weight per wheel oh an 200' on the back weight bracket.I think you can have to much traction! I would much rather it spun to releve some of the strain of the loader than to break. My .02
Denny , You must be running tubes ? I have eight lbs of air in my loader super lugs with the cal. I had the guys at the tire shop add the air.So my 129 runs the heavy cal and 50 lbs plastic weight and one IH weight per wheel oh an 200' on the back weight bracket.I think you can have to much traction! I would much rather it spun to releve some of the strain of the loader than to break. My .02
DON - Yes, there is such a thing as too much weight. You want to shoot for between 5 and 10% slippage, but on loader work don't ask me how you figure that out! Your weight distribution changes so much from loading the bucket to moving up to where ever you intend to dump the bucket, to returning to whatever pile of "STUFF" Your loading.
All totalled, my Super H weighed 5250# with no loader, fluid and one pair of wheel weights. I guess the loader weighs about 1200-1400#, and I added a second pair of weights 5-6 yrs ago, so I figure it's around 7000# now, and up to 7500# with the tire chains. The '51 M loader tractor weighed around 7000# (no fluid) before SON & I added 900# of weights 4 yrs ago, and with it's chains, probably goes 8200-8300#.
Like Steve B listed in his post about his fork truck attachment for his loader on his 1872, I don't think 400-500# is too much for a CC loader tractor to handle depending on how it's attached to the tractor. His 1872 is an SGT, longer so the weight being further back helps him with stability more.
Yes, I have inner tubes on ALL the rear tires on all my tractors. The only tires not tubed are (I think) the frts on the 982, I've never had one of it's frt tires off the wheel.... yet.
Also, even on garden tractors, you should check tire PSI every couple months, they lose air prssure with colder temps just like car/truck tires.
All totalled, my Super H weighed 5250# with no loader, fluid and one pair of wheel weights. I guess the loader weighs about 1200-1400#, and I added a second pair of weights 5-6 yrs ago, so I figure it's around 7000# now, and up to 7500# with the tire chains. The '51 M loader tractor weighed around 7000# (no fluid) before SON & I added 900# of weights 4 yrs ago, and with it's chains, probably goes 8200-8300#.
Like Steve B listed in his post about his fork truck attachment for his loader on his 1872, I don't think 400-500# is too much for a CC loader tractor to handle depending on how it's attached to the tractor. His 1872 is an SGT, longer so the weight being further back helps him with stability more.
Yes, I have inner tubes on ALL the rear tires on all my tractors. The only tires not tubed are (I think) the frts on the 982, I've never had one of it's frt tires off the wheel.... yet.
Also, even on garden tractors, you should check tire PSI every couple months, they lose air prssure with colder temps just like car/truck tires.
One of my 149 cranks extremely slow. Most of the time it doesn't even seem like it is cranking fast enough to start but some how makes it. The battery is new. I have taken all the ground cables off and used a wire wheel/grinder to make sure good connections. Also took the fenders and front housing apart and cleaned those areas with wire wheel/grinder. Used new bolts and washers and ran a tap through the threads to clean them out. Tried a different s/g with the same results. If the belt is loose, the s/g spins great. The positive cable is the factory one with the crimped end that you cannot see inside of. The positive cable also seemed to be getting warmer while it was cranking. Could there be corrosion inside there to cause this problem? Any suggestions would be great because I am not very knowledgable when it comes to electrical problems.
When I start something I like to have everything available & ready. In converting my 682 to hydraulics, is there any new parts I need? I know I’ll need a gasket from pump to differential and a new filter and maybe a rear plate gasket. Is there anything else?
Also, I bought all of the other parts used. Does anyone think it’s worth the effort to go through each component & replace seals, etc? What about the pump itself?
Thanks
Also, I bought all of the other parts used. Does anyone think it’s worth the effort to go through each component & replace seals, etc? What about the pump itself?
Thanks
Michael Smith
If you have a power wire on anything that gets warm it can only be a few things. A bad wire or a short, or to small wire for that intended use. If you cut the casing off that wire you will see that its probably all full of corrosion. Take a meter an check out the wire and see if its in need of replacing .
If you have a power wire on anything that gets warm it can only be a few things. A bad wire or a short, or to small wire for that intended use. If you cut the casing off that wire you will see that its probably all full of corrosion. Take a meter an check out the wire and see if its in need of replacing .
lpalma
Well-known member
Kraig,Congrats on your promotion..
I like the part in the instructions,"discard these parts"
JB Evans
Nice looking 149,You'll love that thrower when you get 2 feet!!
Don.T.
Looks like you wiped out the store of all the fluid.
Is RV antifreeze any heavier than the blue stuff?
Works good winterizing the plumbing in the cabin my friend has.
I like the part in the instructions,"discard these parts"
JB Evans
Nice looking 149,You'll love that thrower when you get 2 feet!!
Don.T.
Looks like you wiped out the store of all the fluid.
Is RV antifreeze any heavier than the blue stuff?
Works good winterizing the plumbing in the cabin my friend has.
I brought my CC 125 inside for a minor tune-up. I have attached some pictures of progress. My question today is the hydro unit. I have ordered all of the gaskets. One of the pictures show the dirt build up where fluid is leaking. Does this look normal? Other than replace seals and gaskets, what else should I do while this unit is out?
Thanks,
Frank
Thanks,
Frank
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
Mike S. There is an ACR, auto compression release in these engines that holds a valve open until its up to spinning at speed. If its malfunctioning you will be cranking against regular head pressure. Gonna take someone else to explain how to check it...
I looked up the ACR in the Kohler service manual. If I read it correctly there is no way to check it except to take off the oil pan and see if it has came loose or broke. I have been extremely lucky with my tractors and have not had to do any internal engine work. Which is a good thing because I have never had any experience with it. I think that is getting ready to change. Hope all you guys are ready for the "where does this go" and "how do you get it back together" questions.
SNOWBALL FIGHT ANYONE?
Recieved some snow since last night through today.
4-6 inches expected by tomorrow!
OLE CHARLIE SEZ
ROD
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,829
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Terry B.
Re: Fork design
The forks on the loader extend all the way under the backing plate. I wanted a way to eliminate the weak spot of fabricated forks, the joint where they bend.
The cantilevered portion behind the upright transfers some of the fork tip load upward onto the reinforced backing plate, making the loads at the joint very nearly vertical.
Standard forks are subject to very high torsional loads at the joint.
I figured that I could get by with lighter weight forks and end up with a more rigid design using the cantilevered method.
A secondary benefit is that the forks "self lock" in position and don't slide side to side unless lifted about 3", then they slide easily.
I also cut a window in the back plate to improve vision, and lowered the lift bar placement.
Re: Fork design
The forks on the loader extend all the way under the backing plate. I wanted a way to eliminate the weak spot of fabricated forks, the joint where they bend.
The cantilevered portion behind the upright transfers some of the fork tip load upward onto the reinforced backing plate, making the loads at the joint very nearly vertical.
Standard forks are subject to very high torsional loads at the joint.
I figured that I could get by with lighter weight forks and end up with a more rigid design using the cantilevered method.
A secondary benefit is that the forks "self lock" in position and don't slide side to side unless lifted about 3", then they slide easily.
I also cut a window in the back plate to improve vision, and lowered the lift bar placement.
Lewis Palma
Mister Palma , R V anti freeze is edible and must be to put in your fresh water lines.They just don`t have it on sale now lol.so the poison stuff will have go in my tires.I never noticed it till I took the picture to post and see the sign.
frank l clark
Well your that far down the road, you might as well replace the cork gasket between the hydro pump and the rear end. Check out the FAC and that will help get it done. I have seen much more dirt than that on the pump fins. Just give it a bath and make sure your pump fan on the drive shat is good(not missing fins).I would think as the pump warms from use it would sweat and attract dust and that`s normal I would say. Lots of eye candy in your shop. Cyclone rake with updated rear swivel wheels (nice),The wife won`t let me have one because shipping would cost more that the vacuum. V is (back up lights in 61 and the fuel door was 65
). Oh and take the rest of the drive parts off the pump and use a sheet metal screw to replace that front pump seal if it bothers you to have the odd drip .Also check the trunion springs ,most times the small center spring will break and you can not tell till you take it apart to check. Info on this repair is in the FAC at the top of this page.Drain the rear end and replace the filter and drive shaft flex joint. I plan to do this on my 125.Just because they are much harder to work on and easier to do theses repairs ( maintenance) when apart. And just for fun replace two wheel lugs with studs on both back axles, makes it real easy to put the wheels back on . Nice looking tractor you have there and well worth the effort !
Allen Schumacher
Could one use a cylinder pressure gauge to test to see if the arc is working? I was thinking if it wasn`t you would build pressure rolling it real slow(by hand). Just a thought
Mister Palma , R V anti freeze is edible and must be to put in your fresh water lines.They just don`t have it on sale now lol.so the poison stuff will have go in my tires.I never noticed it till I took the picture to post and see the sign.
frank l clark
Well your that far down the road, you might as well replace the cork gasket between the hydro pump and the rear end. Check out the FAC and that will help get it done. I have seen much more dirt than that on the pump fins. Just give it a bath and make sure your pump fan on the drive shat is good(not missing fins).I would think as the pump warms from use it would sweat and attract dust and that`s normal I would say. Lots of eye candy in your shop. Cyclone rake with updated rear swivel wheels (nice),The wife won`t let me have one because shipping would cost more that the vacuum. V is (back up lights in 61 and the fuel door was 65
Allen Schumacher
Could one use a cylinder pressure gauge to test to see if the arc is working? I was thinking if it wasn`t you would build pressure rolling it real slow(by hand). Just a thought
