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Archive through January 10, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Thanks to all....It was the coil....Now on to the "loose steering". I hope that loosening the nut and tightning the screw will address the issue...Heres to hope.........Thanks again
 
I'm putting my vote in on mechanical ptos simply because I'm old school and like the way one can ease it in until engaged. I also don't get along with electrical issues all that well. My 1250 wouldn't start a few months ago and it drove me crazy. I knew it was electrical and I also knew my grounds and battery were good. The starter had been making some noises (bendix) so I swapped it out. It wasn't the problem. Long story short it was the darn pto switch. I'm still using the same one but at times I have to jiggle it to get the tractor to crank. I do like the simplicity of the electric clutch; it's pretty easy now to troubleshoot. I just don't care for the instant on and off. Other than OSHA and the same, I never understood the importance of saving me 10 seconds. It's more expensive to have your blades stop quickly because of the added parts like the later mechanicals. The electrical is just expensive, dependable but expensive.

.02 ....Wayne
 
i know a lot of you have seen this pic, but i was taking a look at it today and noticed the fenders are squared off, does that mean that it as a prototype?
183864.jpg
 
Kraig or someone can you post a picture of what a working brake shoe style pto should look like Myron refrenced it earlier when i questioned the on on a 129 i am working on. Also are these two (brake shoe vs button) interchangable or are they different
 
Thanks Dennis, Luther, Jerry, Dave, I'm off to try that right now. Nick
 
Does any one know what IH Cub Cadet models would be close to the Wheel Horse D160/D180/D200 line. By close I mean in weight and HP. (875lB - 1169LB, 14HP-20HP) Also, what was the biggest garden IH Cub model ever made?
 
Victor,

IH started with a 7hp (475 lbs) in 1961(seen just a few posts down)and ended in 1981 with a range of HP from 12 to 19.9. The heaviest would likley be the 982 (19.9 hp)at about 900 lbs (no attachments)
 
Jeff B: The blade brake version of the PTO clutch is the same as the non brake version except for the addition of the brake and are more or less interchangeable. Having said that, all portions of the blade brake must be removed from that arm and a wear button installed. The pulley itself can be rebuilt by removing the brake disc and replacing the center button with the earlier thrust button. Hope you got all that...

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
 
Tried posting a few times and it kept redirecting me. Internet must have been full. Anyway, I got the PTO rockshaft off with no trouble but those cotter pins are harder than woodpecker lips. Now to find some big washers to shim that thing to keep it form moving sideways. The new bronze button is totally destroyed so I'm thinking I might go back to original. Any suggestions? Nick
 
just an FYI guys, i finally got the new domain name for my site, its now http://IHCC.us im not sure how long the old one will point there. and by the way for a bunch of cub collectors getting pics out of most of you is like pulling teeth! i thought this part of the site would be a breeze!
 
Hi Guys:

Thought I'd post this photo of Dave Ross welding the axle on my Cub in my newly finished garage...What's wrong with this pic??
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jawdrop.gif
poof.gif

183868.jpg
 
maybe the gas tank about a foot below the arc!... actually theres too many things to list lol
 
On my 1450, the hydraulic lift control connection to the lift handle is different than the one shown in the Parts Lookup and different than the one Richard C (I think) posted a couple days ago. My handle is longer, and goes all the way across the pedestal and stubs out the other side. And the connection to the control valve lever is not the j-hook type, it's a connection that the handle passes through. Is this another previous owner modification? It looks like the handle was welded, maybe extended? Do I have an older version? (Or maybe my tractor is a very rare and valuable hybrid?)

Here's what Parts Lookup shows:
183871.gif


Here's what mine looks like:
183872.jpg
 
Matt, Not sure of what looks like a squared off fender. If I'm not mistaken the "round" fenders do go to a slightly flatened/straight at the end and not completely round. Might be the angle
 
Myron Thanks I was looking at parts lookup and thought it should work the way you said. I just needed someone to confirm it.
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Robert P. If someone answered your question, I missed it. It sounds to me like you have a worn drive shaft and the throw out bearing is "hanging" on it. Look in the Cub Cadet Parts box at the top of this page and you should be able to find a parts breakdown for your model.
 
Steve Shaff
welding with out proper eye protection, Crazy
Welding over what looks like a gas container, Crazy
I hope you have fire insurance lol
Later Don T
 
Greg L
I have a 1450 and my hydro lift looks just like yours. I had a heck of a time last winter when the pin rhat goes thru the round bushing and lift lever came out. upon tearing the tractor apart to get to the problem, seen a PO atempt to fix the problem.
They had drilled another, actually several holes in the lift rod. That mod apparently weakened the rod at that point and the rod bent and the hole wallowed out. I straightend the rod, and welded up the holes. Then since I was always grabbing the wrong lever when plowing snow, switched the lever to the left side. drilled a new hole and put in a new pin. You can see the lift lever on the left side on the pic in my profile.
I think Don T had something similar happen to him last year on a 149. There is a newer style linkage that consists of a band that tightens around the rod instead of a pin that goes thru it. IIRC
Brad
 
Theres two gas cans in that picture. Steve got a new camera for christmas we got to screwing around. I don't weld without a helmet, I probably shouldn't chew gum without one. It was a set up picture for fun. Now that Steves got the new camera mabey he'll post a few more. After we quit screwing around I welded the front axle mmounting bracket back on. The bushings on the plate were wollowed out along with the front axle itsself. I cut the plate off and had a local machine shop drill all three holes out with a new pin it's as tight as the factory ever had it. Did a 123 a couple months ago, same way, with the super steer upgrade it's the best steering cub I've ever been around. even with the snow blower on.
 
Matt S., I believe that Cub is one of the prototypes, most likely #411, the one that Harold Schramm refurbished that now belongs to Jim Chabot. Harold passed away a few years ago. And yes the lower corners of the fenders are squared of rather than being rounded.

183898.jpg


Harold on #411.

183899.jpg


#411 fender detail.

183900.jpg


Typical Original fender.
 

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